Hands on with the Christopher Ward C900 Single Pusher Chronograph Timepiece

A Step up for the British based watchmaker….

Written by D Constant for The Watch Review Site

Further to our little sneak peek at the Christopher Ward C900 Monopusher earlier this month we now have the pleasure in bringing you one of the first published ‘hands on reviews’ of this soon to be classic Christopher Ward Timepiece, yes we know it is only on pre-order and not yet released, but if there is a watch that has the qualities and characteristics to be written in the history books, with longevity in design and tweaks in the complication, then the C900 monopusher or single pusher is the timepiece from the Christopher Ward stable that will make it’s mark for a long time on the watch world.  Watch out for it at next years European Watch of the Year awards, I for one will expect to see it there after Christopher Wards Jump Hour was nominated this year.

I’m sure we thanked the guys and girls at Christopher Ward for the loan of the only C900 currently in circulation in the UK in our previous piece but we would like to do it once again, It was a pleasure to be trusted with the Chr.Ward C900 mono pusher even if it was only for 5 days or so. I would just like to point out that the model we had for hands on review was a PR sample produced pre production by Christopher Ward and his ateliers, but have been assured that it is identical to the finished product that is available for pre order on the Christopher ward website now and should be delivered early November 2012.

For our readers that are unaware of what a monopusher or single pusher actually is, well it is what it says, It allows all the functions of a chronograph to be worked by one pusher or crown and is achieved by a complex steps of adjustments to the mechanics of a movement to achieve it. On a normal chronograph you get two separate pushers, a start/stop pusher and a reset pusher, this in its self even though very common mechanically it is still complex. Monopushers are  fairly rare in the watch world and are usually only produced by the top end manufactures leading them to be quite unique and expensive.

So on to the Hands on Review of the C900 Harrison Single Pusher Chronograph (to give the C900 its full name), firstly as you can see its a clean cut design, with its polished stainless steel case and crisp white dial, with long thin baton indicators at the hour points and small ones as minute markers. The only two Roman numerals are at XII (12 o’clock) and VI (6 o’clock) and this plays to the C900’s strong points with the needle like hands and two inner sub dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, these sub dials are large and clear and fit in well with the timepiece. The inner sub dials depict the minutes for your chronograph (3 o’clock) and constant small seconds (9 o’clock) the overall feel of the C900 is clean crisp and effective. At no point did I find it difficult to read the time whilst in normal light conditions but the lack of lume does prohibit the easy reading of the time in very dark environments, but hey who would want to be walking down a darkened alleyway with no street lights looking at your £2,450.00 watch on your wrist, not me that’s for sure…

The black alligator leather strap also fits in perfectly with the dial and overall impression the C900 is trying to achieve, trying may be the incorrect word we should say the impression Christopher have so elegantly managed to achieved with the C900 Monopusher (I cant help it I like calling it Monopusher rather than Single Pusher Sorry). It is also available with a brown alligator strap too.

I would just like to point out that the photo’s of the C900 Harrison Single Pusher (that was for those CW fans who want it called by its official name) may not be our best but due to the time constraints we had we were unable to get our best man on it. One further point on the morning of receipt of the C900 we were made aware of a previous recipient opening the timepiece for some unknown reason and leaving a white hair under the sapphire crystal, so for those of you that see the white line that looks like a crack in the sapphire crystal, its not it is a hair. Someone will be getting a slap on the wrists.

Along with the classic crisp and lovely design of the C900 monopusher, the stand out feature has to be the movement and monopusher or single pusher chronograph functionality, and this is all down to  CW’s second bespoke movement (Calibre JJ02), which was constructed and manufactures with the German” watchmaking wunderkind”, Johannes Jahnke. Johannes who has worked with the legendary watchmaker, Mr Jean Fillon to create a completely re-worked adaptation of the Unitas 6497 calibre for the C900. In adapting the 6497 into the JJ02 we also have a wonderful work of art of a movement when viewed through the case wide sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. A bit of detail regarding the JJ02 movement and a little history of Johannes Jahnke and Mr Jean Fillon can be see here at The Watch Review Site.

Through the full width exhibition case back  the mastery of the JJ02 is revealed in great detail, Jahnke’s JJO2 calibre is supremely elegant, clean and easy to understand. It is even possible to see how the sliding gear, clutch and brake allows the chronograph to be controlled by a single pusher, set within the crown. Lovely to view for the watch aficionado and connoisseur.

It is this monopusher or single pusher complication that makes the C900 a timepiece and not just a watch in my eyes, Christopher Ward is entering an area of the watch world that they have dabbled with in the Jump Hour with the C900, Can we say they have entered the world of Haute Horlogerie, but again at an affordable price point for the complication. We say affordable at £2,450.00 its not exactly that for most, but when you consider other monopushers in the market like the Bell and Ross WW1 Monopusher at £4,900.00, without an in-house movement (it does have a high end Le Joux Perret movement at its heart) and double the cost of the C900, to add we prefer the look of the Christopher Ward.

Another option is the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher at £6,800.00 nearly three times that of the C900, or there is the newly introduced Longines 180th Anniversary Monopusher Chronograph which is marketed at around £3,000.00 for the stainless steel model and over £7,000 for other models, but the stainless steel model is not limited in production like the C900 and again in our opinion the C900 is just simply nicer.

In the words of Christopher Ward “The C900 Single Pusher Chronograph is beyond question our most complicated watch to date and will make an entirely new level of sophistication accessible to more people than ever before because of the unique Christopher Ward value equation.”

“However, it’s the magnificence of the movement that really moves me. I was completely transfixed when I first saw what Johannes Jahnke had accomplished and I don’t mind admitting that I almost cried with a combination of joy and pride. We may produce even more complicated watches in the future but the C900 will always be a very special watch for me”.

So this limited edition monopusher from Christopher Ward has taken us aback a little with its solid workmanship, classic lines and design, beautiful working and looking JJ02 movement we agree with most of our peers that Christopher Ward have Definitely pulled out of the bag one of the most significant timepieces to be launched by the British watchmaker.

Have we mentioned that the movements are all put together personally by Johannes or his assistant and the C900 comes with a certificate of authentication signed by Johannes, again no mean feat at this price bracket. Manually constructed, hand made, hand finished pieces just don’t come at this price… well they do now.

Adding to this it is not only the JJ02 movement that is a masterpiece the actual crown and pusher itself was designed from scratch too, with considerable thought and skill has gone into creating this bespoke crown to overcome the challenge of incorporating the central axis as well as four ‘O’ rings, which allow the pusher to be depressed while still ensuring the watch remains waterproof. Now that’s some feat…

We have yapped on about the movement and initial looks of the C900 Single Pusher now to get down to the normal Hands on Review Stuff, firstly the wrist shots of this Christopher Ward Masterpiece, Well the stainless steel case is 43mm in diameter and nearly 16mm thick but even on my slight 6 3/4 inch (17cm) wrists it still felt comfortable and fit very well. See for yourselves.

The 15.7mm thickness of the watch, which is no surprise considering the movement it encases, is not overly big or protruding and fits comfortable under a shirt cuff and as I have been asked its probably slightly too large for the better half of the world at 43mm x 15.7mm, so sorry ladies. What I will say is that the thickness does not take away from the elegance and classic look of the timepiece with the slight brushed steel effect on the sides of the case, polished case and full width exhibition case back the C900 is elegantly put together to produce a lovely strikingly subtle yet eye catching watch that can be enjoyed by all even the slightly meagre wrist-ed in the world as myself.

The Watch itself is a very comfortable weight, apologies here as we didn’t get to weigh it as we are doing on our hands on reviews from now on, but if we get it back for a follow up we definitely will, IT is weighty enough for you to know you have a watch on and feel like you are getting something substantial for your money, but not too heavy for it to be a burden on the wrist, in reality I would have forgotten it was on my wrist had it not been for the fact that I couldn’t take my eyes off it and the comments I was getting form others who wondered what I was wearing. What I can say it was easy to get on and off the wrist as I did so on many occasions to show off the movement, as one does…

Christopher Ward has definitely travelled down the dress watch field here with a little sportiness thrown in for good measure, the C900 Harrison Single Pusher Chronograph is a beautifully refined yet masculine timepiece that can adorn anyone’s wrist and sit amongst some of the heavyweight punchers in the world of Haute Hologerie. Just one thing I would of really liked to see a date on the C900, maybe at 6 o’clock.

In our opinion, what you are getting with the Christopher Ward C900 Harrison Single Pusher is a really collectible timepiece and very affordable for what it actually is. If I could I would have one for myself in a blink of an eye, but right now it will probably sit on the wish list until the urge really overtakes and funds enable it… Well its really just the funds the urge and lust is there and its probably here to stay.

As in time honoured tradition here are the Technical details for the Christopher Ward C900 Harrison Single Pusher and following that a little gallery of photographs we have taken of the watch whilst in our care. 

Christopher Ward C900 Harrison Single Pusher – Technical Details

Worldwide limited edition of 250 pieces

Calibre: JJ02, hand-wound chronograph, highly modified from Unitas 6497, hand-wound mechanical chronograph by Johannes Jahnke with Jean Fillon

Vibrations: 18,000 vph

40 hour power reserve

Functions: Continuous seconds and 30 minute totaliser sub-dials operated through central crown function

Case: 316L stainless steel, Diameter: 43mm, Height: 15.9mm

Hand Finished, surgical grade, stainless steel case and crown

Museum-grade sapphire crystal with AR08 coating

Optic white one-piece 3-9 bi-compax dial

Screw-down transparent exhibition case back with full diameter anti-reflective crystal

Serial number engraved on both case and movement

Water resistance: 5 atm/50 metres

Strap: CITES approved, premium Louisana alligator deployment strap

And here is that Gallery of photos of the Christopher Ward C900 Harrison Single Pusher Chronograph, we promised you

Signalman GMT PR

Introducing the Schofield Signalman GMT PR, limited edition timepiece from Schofield Watch Company.

While not a divers watch as such it is water resistant to 500 meters and has a AR coated sapphire crystal.

Signalman refers to a lighthouse as is evident with the engraved watch back. The case shape is based on a specific light used in a lighthouse in England.

Not wanting to offer a simple three-hand dial watch to start, the Signalman GMT watch has a GMT hand as well as a power reserve indicator and date complications. Powering the Signalman GMT is a Swiss Soprod caliber 9335 automatic movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours and the GMT hand is adjusted in one hour increments with a specific inset case pusher tool.

The Signalman also comes with a number of interesting and exquisite straps. They are all 24mm wide and come in a host of styles including shark and calf skin.

Technical Information

Automatic Swiss Soprod 9335 movement 31 Jewels 28,800 bph (4hz) Rhodium plated, pearlage decoration, blued screws 

Power Reserve of 42 hours displayed at 12 o’clock GMT display at 6 o’clock set via push button at 4:30 o’clock, Date at 3 o’clock 

Water resistant to 500 metres Anti-magnetic movement holder

Signalman case: 44mm diameter, DLC coated stainless steel

Dial: on two levels, applied numerals, SuperLuminova C1

Sapphire crystal: domed, anti-reflective coating on the inside

Strap: special edition black shark-skin, green calf skin lined

Buckle: curved, polished stainless steel, engraved, screw in

You will receive a discount of 20% if you pre order either of Schofields Signalman’s before June 2012.

Pricing – Signalman DLC

Pre Order Price               £2,465.00 excl. VAT and Shipping        £2,958.00 incl. VAT

Post June 2012 Price     £2,958.00 excl. VAT and Shipping        £3,549.00 incl. VAT

UK Shipping is £20.00

The Soprano by Christophe Claret

Tourbillon minute repeater with four cathedral gongs

Whilst at SalonQP 2012 we had the pleasure in seeing the Christophe Claret Soprano Timepiece in person (persay), the guys at Christophe Claret’s stand were very eager to tell us all about the Minute Repeater and it’s spectacular chimes and how they mimic exactly the note of our very own Big Ben… Can you imagine Big Ben on your wrist? I did joke about the Soprano obviously being a little quieter than the Houses of Parliament’s own Big Ben, but I think it got lost in translation and went over the Christophe Claret representatives head.

He went on to explain the functions of the timepiece and again repeat this fascinating take on how the watch reacts and chimes on the quarter hour (some achievement in the watch world) and how the actual gong or chime is activated, quite a fascinating insight into the movement in this Soprano Tourbillon Minute Repeater, all in all we liked The Soprano not only for what it has achieved in the chime department and workings of a watch, but also in its looks department, as for the price well see for yourself, this is a timepiece available in two variations each limited to a mere 8 timepieces each worldwide.

We enjoyed finding out about the Soprano and it’s patented gong movement so we thought you may be interested too, so here is a detailed overview from Christophe Claret.

The Soprano features a musically accurate 4-note minute repeater striking Westminster Quarters on patented cathedral gongs, a 60-second tourbillon and Charles X style bridges, all on a spectacular dial-free view. The Soprano pays homage to the roots of Christophe Claret’s manufacture, which has innovated in striking complications, tourbillons and sapphire components since its earliest years. Indeed, in 1997 Christophe Claret was the first to incorporate sapphire components – comprising plates and Charles X style bridges − in a wristwatch movement.

The Soprano is a timepiece of contrasts: traditional haute horlogerie with state-of-the-art manufacturing; English Parliament with French King; historic complications with contemporary design; aural indications with visual displays; noble gold with high-tech titanium, and metal components with sapphire elements.

The minute repeater is considered – with good reason − to be one of the most demanding and difficult horological complications to realize due to the marriage of technical complexity with artistic musical tonality. A minute repeater tells the time audibly with two notes created from two small hammers striking two gongs: one for the hours, one for the minutes and a combination of the two for the quarter hours. Even more complex is the Clarion repeater with three notes that can play a simple melody for the quarters.

However, the nec plus ultra of the minute repeater realm is the Westminster– so called for the distinctive tune played by the Big Ben clock at the Palaceof Westminster, home of the British Parliament. Big Ben strikes a complex melody for the quarters with four hammers striking four notes on four bells. To provide an even fuller and richer sound than standard repeaters, the Christophe ClaretSoprano features four cathedral gongs, each circling the perimeter of the movement twice (a normal gong goes around only once). And to further ensure that the rich sound reaches the listen’s ears, the central case band is in grade 5 titanium, a metal known for its superior acoustic properties and used in musical instruments.

A few decades before Big Ben began chiming Westminster Quarters over London, the French king Charles X was making a significant impact on art, architecture and horology. One of the defining characteristics of pocket watches created during this period were stepped bridges, which became known as Charles X bridges. Having spent much of his early watchmaking career restoring beautiful timepieces from this epoch,Christophe Claret incorporated this historic design element into the Soprano.

In 1997,Christophe Claret was the very first to use sapphire bridges (even then Charles X style) and plates in wristwatch movements, and the Soprano makes liberal use of sapphire components to allow visual access into the mechanisms. From the smoked ring circumscribing the movement that discreetly hides yet subtly reveals the cathedral gongs, to the transparent mainspring barrel at the top of the open dial, and turning over to the clear repeater inertia governor cover visible through the sapphire display back. 

“When I created Manufacture Claret over 20 years ago, the very first movement I developed was a minute repeater so the complication has always been very special to me.” Christophe Claret 

Minute Repeater: The minute repeater, which strikes the time on demand (usually by activating a slide on the caseband), is an extremely difficult complication to realize because:

1. Technically, it is a very complex mechanism.

2. Musically, the notes have to ring clear, loud and harmoniously.

With decades of experience developing striking watches, Christophe Claret has not just mastered the mysterious art of minute repeaters, but has brought the genre into the 21^st century. Working with a piano tuner, Claret developed a computer program called Analyser 2000 that records and analyses the notes for pitch, duration and loudness, and even the length of the silent pauses between notes. This enables the Christophe Claret manufacture to consistently create harmonious and musically accurate melodies with strong crystalline notes.

Each note is determined by the precise length and diameter of the gongs. The hammer has to strike forcefully for a loud sound, but immediately leave the gong so as not to deaden the ring.

“The melody chimed by the Soprano is as musically correct as possible.”Christophe Claret

Repeater operation: When the repeater slide is activated, the chimes sound the number of hours with C (Do), the deepest note; followed by the Westminster Quarters’ melody for the quarter hours (unless fewer than 15 minutes after the hour); and then the number of minutes after the last quarter hour.

Patented cathedral gongs: Each cathedral gong circles the movement twice so that one coil lies just above the other. Because the coils are so close together, they can touch each other as they vibrate, which can create a disconcerting buzz. Christophe Claret invented a system that effectively avoids this problem, which was awarded a patent.

Westminster Quarters:Westminster Quarters, also known as Westminster Chimes, is a four-note tune originally written in 1793 for the bells of the St Mary the Great Church in Cambridge,England and was known as the Cambridge Chimes.

However, in 1859 the melody was chosen for the clock tower at the Palace of Westminster in London. A clock now more commonly known now as Big Ben, though the term originally referred to just the large hour bell. So well known did the four-note chimes become that they came to be called Westminster Chimes.

The melody is played when the watch strikes the quarter hours (each 15 minutes) as just a single deep note is played for the hours and another single (higher pitched) note for the minutes.

While the Westminster Quarters melody is usually played in the key of E major, theChristophe ClaretSoprano chimes in the key of C major to provide longer resonating and happier-sounding notes.

Manufacture Claret is one of a very elite few manufactures with the skills, knowledge and capability to create four-noteWestminsterminute repeaters.

Transmission of Sound: The purpose of a minute repeater is to allow the time to be heard rather than read, which was a very useful feature before the invention of electric lamps (and mobile phones). To maximize the sound of the notesChristophe Claret has incorporated three features into the Soprano: Cathedral gongs, an open dial and a titanium caseband.

“One of the keys of developing an excellent minute repeater is ensuring that the sound can escape easily.” Christophe Claret

Cathedral gongs: Standard repeater gongs (the bell) are usually made from a hardened steel wire that makes a one complete circle around the movement or dial. The Soprano is equipped with four cathedral gongs, each circling the movement twice to provide a fuller and richer sound.

No dial: To minimize barriers to sound − and to maximize visual appreciation of the finely finished movement and the operation of the striking mechanism − the Soprano has no dial which allows the beautiful melody out and showcases the tourbillon, repeater operation, mainspring barrel, winding mechanism and Charles X bridges.

Titanium caseband: The case of the Soprano is in three parts: upper and lower (bezel and caseback) sections in gold and a central titanium caseband. Titanium was selected for its superior sound transmission qualities. Where gold tends to deaden sound, titanium effectively transmits sound from the interior of the case to the exterior. The sound qualities of titanium are so good that the metal is often used for saddle bridges in high-quality guitars.

Tourbillon escapement: Christophe Claret has an affinity for the tourbillon escapement, for both its kinetic beauty and its superior chronometric performance. In fact, Claret is so dedicated to the tourbillon that it is the standard escapement for all of his manufacture movements. The 60-second tourbillon carriage of the Soprano is on full view through the open dial at 6 o’clock and is supported by a single arm stepped bridge in the characteristic style of Charles X.

Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon escapement at the end of the 18^th century, so it is only fitting that Claret has complemented the Soprano’s tourbillon with a ‘parachute’ shock protection system – another Breguet invention.

Charles X: In 1824, Charles Philippe the Count ofArtois succeeded his brother Louis XVIII to the throne ofFrance and became King Charles X. While his rule lasted just six years – ending with the July Revolution of 1830 – Charles was a great patron of the arts and his influence was seen throughoutFrance in architecture, art and horology. The watchmaking of this period was prolific, generally of very high quality and distinguished by a particular form of stepped bridge.

Sapphire components: Christophe Claret is a pioneer in making movement components from sapphire crystal and in 1997 was the first to develop a movement with sapphire plates and bridges (and even then his first sapphire bridges were in the Charles X style he admired form his has in restoration of historic timepieces). Since then, Manufacture Claret has been at the forefront in the use sapphire components that allow maximum appreciation of movement and mechanisms.

There is the obvious scratch resistant top crystal and display back as well as the more discreet smoked sapphire hour and minute ring around the open movement. But sapphire is also used to allow the viewer to delve even deeper. A transparent mainspring barrel under 12 o’clock allows both the barrel to be seen turning while being wound and the approximate power reserve to be deduced by the state-of-wind of the visible mainspring. The repeater’s inertia governor at 3 o’clock has a clear sapphire cover so it can be seen silently spinning as it regulates the speed of the chiming gongs.

Christophe Claret – The Soprano – Technical Details

Two limited editions of eight pieces each

CALIBRE TRD98: 

Dimensions: 27.6 x 46.4 x8.45 mm

Number of parts: 450

Number of jewels: 39

Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.)

Barrel: Single mainspring barrel in transparent sapphire crystal

Tourbillon: Escapement: Swiss lever type, Oscillation frequency of the balance: 3 Hz (21,600 vph), Tourbillon rotation 60 seconds, Flying tourbillon, Charles X style stepped bridge, Parachute shock protection

Functions: Hours and minutes, 4-note minute repeater playing Westminster Quarters, Mechanical, hand-wound movement, Transparent mainspring barrel acts as movement state-of-wind indicator: when the movement is fully wound the spring is centered in the barrel

Distinctive features: Four visible hammers, four patented cathedral gongs, Repeater mechanism features silent inertia governor, Tourbillon regulator with parachute shock absorber, Charles X style stepped bridges

Case: Round

Dimensions: 45mm x 56.80mm x 15.32mm

Water resistance: 3 ATM  /30 m/100 ft

Case Material: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD titanium / Anthracite PVD and black spinal hands. Limited edition of 8 pieces or White gold and anthracite PVD titanium / Black PVD and ruby or blue spinal hands. Limited edition of 8 pieces

Slide: Repeater mechanism is activated by a slide on the left side of the caseband

Crown: Red gold and titanium (red gold case) or white gold and titanium (white gold case)

Strap: Black hand-sewn alligator leather with black stitching (red gold case), red or blue stitching (white gold case)

Buckle: Red gold and titanium (red gold case) or white gold and titanium (white gold case)

Limited edition: Each of the two versions is issued in a limited edition of eight pieces

Suggested retail price: From 468’000 Swiss francs exclusive of VAT thats £315,000 plus VAT so more like £380,000

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon in black titanium

Emblematic of the ROGER DUBUIS identity, the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon watch in black titanium is presented here under a new reference with a “full black” titanium case. The lightness of the material emphasises, more than ever, the ethereal appearance of the exceptional RD01SQ skeleton movement, all the better to reveal the power of this timepiece designed in a spirit of total transparency. The Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon watch is available in a limited edition of 88 pieces.

Power, lightness and transparency: this is the triple register in which the new Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying watch in black titanium from ROGER DUBUIS plays its role. This exceptional timepiece is presented for the first time in a “full black” titanium case with a 45 mm diameter, water-resistant to 5 bar (50 metres): a very technical exterior in keeping with the image of the mechanism it houses.

The ROGER DUBUIS Manufacture set off the new craze for skeleton movements back in 2005. It has now given them a totally new dimension by developing skeleton movements with a modern appearance, that is more ethereal and more audacious than before. In parallel to this, the Genevan watchmaker has also devoted its attention to the most emblematic of all watch complications: the Tourbillon. The purpose of this complication is to compensate for the effects of gravity so as to ensure that watches operate more efficiently. ROGER DUBUIS has gone a step further by developing a Double Tourbillon with differential to provide even greater reliability. This is an exercise in high-level watchmaking acrobatics designed to ensure optimal performance.

The skeleton double flying tourbillon movement, treated in grey anthracite, operates the latest arrival in the Excalibur Collection, the RD01SQ calibre, that carries within it an important part of the identity of the Genevan watchmaker’s movements. It incorporates two signature devices characteristic of ROGER DUBUIS, the double flying tourbillon and the skeleton. This hand-wound mechanical skeleton movement has 319 parts and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (2 x 3 Hz) for a power reserve of 48 hours.

Proposed in a limited edition of 88 pieces, the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon watch in black titanium is delivered with a hand-sewn black alligator-skin strap with an adjustable folding buckle in titanium.

Technical details

Case: Ø 45 mm, titanium

Dial: Skeleton / Charcoal flange / Red minute – circle and white ROGER DUBUIS transfers / Black screws

Water resistance: 5 BAR (50 m)

Strap: Black strap, genuine alligator, hand – stitched

Clasp: Titanium adjustable folding buckle

Certifications: Poinçon de Genève – Certification COSC

RD01SQ Hand wound mechanical skeleton movement, 16¾’’’, 28 jewels, charcoal rhodium plated, circular grained.

Specific features: Double one minute flying tourbillon with differential, visible between 4 and 5 o’clock and between 7 and 8 o’clock

Number of parts: 319

Height: 7.67 mm

Frequency: 2 x 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Power reserve: 48 hours

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Automatic Collection

The new Excalibur Automatic line from ROGER DUBUIS is an ode to power and aestheticism. Dynamic in its shapes, sharp angles and the force of its design, the Excalibur model is a concentration of all the characteristics of the collection combined with a perfect mechanism. The new Excalibur Collection is for the knights of the modern age.

The Excalibur Collection is therefore enriched by an automatic line that remains faithful to the features that have enforced the reputation of this flagship collection of the ROGER DUBUIS Manufacture. More urban, a touch more serene but every bit as dynamic with its tense lines, the collection is distinguished by its pure and uncompromising aestheticism.

The Excalibur Automatic for 2012 is to be manufactured in three models Pink Gold with brushed dial, Pink Gold with antracite dial and Steel.

Ensuring perfect comfort for the wearer, its pink-gold 42 mm diameter case brings out all the dazzling energy of its brushed sunray effect graphic dial, reinforced by elongated Roman numerals. This automatic line gains in lightness and symmetry through the absence of a crown-guard, but retains its powerful look thanks to its strong, bevelled angles. It is the same with the bezel, so typical of this collection, with its more delicate fluting that here reflects the “Dauphine” shape of the hour and minute hands. The impact of the dial is even more strongly marked by the large Roman numerals that radiate from the centre, and by the generously-dimensioned counter of the “small” seconds hand at 9 o’clock. The exterior flange supports the minute circle, interrupted by square applied markers at each full hour.

This pink-gold model is also proposed with an anthracite grey dial and Roman numerals in a slightly darker tone, which give it an extremely elegant and subtle appearance. The version in steel, fitted with a silvered dial, perfectly completes the collection.

At the heart of these elegant timepieces beats the RD620 calibre, designed, developed and produced by ROGER DUBUIS. This mechanical movement with automatic micro-rotot winding represents the new generation of ROGER DUBUIS mechanical movements, combining aesthetic qualities and performance, and based on the most advanced production technology. Visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, this movement incorporates 184 parts and offers hour, minute and small seconds functions. Decorated with “Geneva ribbing”, it beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and has a power reserve of 52 hours.

Technical Details – Pink Gold Versions

Option 1 – Pink Gold Silver Dial

Dial:Silver satin sunburst / Black transferred Roman numerals / Silver small seconds counter at 9 o’clock / Black transfers / Pink gold hand and filet / Silver flange / Black transfers / Pink gold appliques

Strap: Black, genuine alligator, hand – stitched

Option 2 – Pink Gold Antracite Dial

Dial 2: Charcoal grey satin sunburst / Charcoal transferred Roman numerals / Charcoal grey small seconds counter at 9 o’clock / Charcoal transfers / Pink gold hand and filet / Charcoal grey flange / White transfers / Pink gold appliques

Case: 42mm, Pink gold

Strap: Brown, genuine alligator, hand – stitched

Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)

Clasp: Pink gold adjustable folding buckle

Certifications: Poinçon de Genève – Certification COSC

RD620 Self – winding mechanical movement, 13¾’’’, 35 jewels, finely adjusted in five positions, rhodium – plated, “Côtes de Genève” decoration.

Specific features: Hours and minutes in the centre, small seconds at 9 o’clock

Number of parts: 184 components

Height: 4.50 mm

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800vph)

Power reserve: 52 hours

T

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Technical Details – Steel

Case: 42mm, stainless steel

Dial: Silver satin sunburst / Black transferred Roman numerals / Silver small seconds counter at 9 o’clock / Black transfers / Silver flange / Black transfers / Rhodium – plated appliques

Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)

Strap: Black, genuine alligator, hand – stitched

Clasp: Steel adjustable folding buckle

Certifications: Poinçon de Genève – Certification COSC

RD620 Self – winding mechanical movement, 13¾’’’, 35 jewels, finely adjusted in five positions, rhodium – plated, “Côtes de Genève” decoration.

Specific features: Hours and minutes in the centre, small seconds at 9 o’clock

Number of parts: 184 components

Height: 4.50 mm

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800vph)

Power reserve: 52 hours

Hublot Big Bang “Zebra Bang” Watch

Press Release by Hublot S.A.

As a little preview to the upcoming Geneva Trade Show in January 2013, Hublot have decided to introduce us to their new Zebra Bang Timepiece, A diamond encrusted new Hublot Big Bang Watch available in three variations, black ceramic, white ceramic and red gold…. all limited to 250 timepieces worldwide each.

The call of the jungle continues. After the success of the Leopard Bang and the Boa Bang, it is the turn of the highly fashionable zebra print to dip its hooves. The height of sexiness and cool, zebra print is everywhere. Seen on the catwalks and all the It girls, zebra stripes are the height of fashion this year. With zebra stripes, evening and daytime looks merge into one. With small, subtle accents, such as with the Big Bang Zebra, a 41 mm diameter, black ceramic, ultra-feminine watch, its bezel set with 48 topazes and baguette-cut spinels and its zebra-print dial is showcased by eight small bezel-set diamond to capture the light.

Equipped with an automatic mechanical chronograph movement for the connoisseurs, offering practicality with water-tightness to a depth of 100 metres, and finished with a strap made from zebra-print calfskin leather sewn onto black rubber which is both comfortable and flexible, this watch is will set fashionistas’ hearts aflutter.

This model is also available in 18K red gold, and white ceramic. Limited edition of 250 pieces for each of the three designs.

Hublot Big Bang – Zebra Bang – Technical Details

Ref: 341.CV.7517.VR.1975 (black ceramic version), 341.PX.7518.VR.1975 (18K red gold version), 341.HW.7517.VR.1975 (white ceramic version)

Series Limited edition of 250 numbered pieces for each of the three versions

Movement HUB4300 Automatic mechanical chronograph
Date Trapezoid aperture at 4:30
Oscillating weight Openworked with black PVD coating, tungsten segment
Power reserve Approximately 42 hours

Case Big Bang – 41 mm diameter, Black ceramic, white ceramic or 18K red gold, depending on the version

Bezel Black anodised aluminium, 18K white gold or red gold set with: 17 colourless topazes and 31 black baguette-cut spinels

Crystal Sapphire with interior/exterior anti-reflective coating

Bezel Lugs Black composite resin (for the black ceramic or 18K red gold version), White composite resin (for the white ceramic version)
Lateral Inserts Black composite resin (for the black ceramic or 18K red gold version), White composite resin (for the white ceramic version)

Crown Steel or 18K red gold with black or white rubber inserts

Push-buttons Steel or 18K red gold with black or white rubber inserts

Case-back Titanium or 18K red gold

Water resistance 10 ATM, i.e. approx 100 metres

Dial Zebra print, Indexes set with eight small diamonds, with a total of 0.14 carats

Hands Black or white ceramic version: polished and rhodium-plated, 18K red gold version: polished and gold-plated

Strap Zebra-print calfskin leather sewn onto black rubber with black stitching or onto white rubber with white stitching)

Clasp Steel, black PVD steel or 18K red gold deployant buckle

SalonQP – The Watch Review Site Photo Diary – Part 4

So for Part 4 of our Photographic tour of SalonQP 2012, and we promise you will see the Zr012 Experiment Nitro-Glycerine this time, along with the Gronefeld One Hertz and a little Hermes plus a few more individual shots….

So as promised here it is in the flesh as it may be…. the C3H5N3O9 or Nitro-Glycerine Watch by the guys behind URWEK and MB&F as presented to us at SalonQP by Ian Skellern or Under the Dial as you may all know him.

The first photo is of the C3H5N3O9 on my wrist if you couldn’t guess

and now for a few more different angles of the Experiment on the wrist and against the odds and looks it fits superbly and comfortable on the wrist even my small 6 3/4 inch wrist, which by chance is exactly the same size as Ian’s, this great fit is all down to the moving top lug and positioning, but more on this in the full article coming soon on The Watch Review Site.

Just look at how it hugs the wrist below.

and the strap is nice too, and it closes by itself effectively no pressure required

Enough of the WOMW shots, as need to keep some back for the article and onto a few other photographs of this limited edition masterpiece, oh and we are told a Rose Gold version is in the pipeline…

As for that wankle movement here is a clear one for you movement fanatics, and watching it turn and move is a sight, its so perfectly balanced and needs to be.

We nearly forgot the caseback of the Experiment ZR012 C3H5N3O9 an piece of work itself, whereas the face and top of the case is very space age, mechanical and heavy looking, the case-back has been made more subtle more organic and animal like, softer to contrast the front of the watch but compliment it also.

and a close up of the Power reserve

I think that is enough to wet the apetite and from one fantastic and strange movement to another great movement made by the Gronfeld brothers Bart and Tim out of the Netherlands and the Gronefeld One Hertz, well a version of… First lets show you a number of Gronefeld watches including the Rose Gold GTM-06 all on show at SalonQp before we move onto the Titanium and Orange One Hertz Fire to give it the proper name

Here is a closer look at the Gronefeld GMT-06

And now for the Gronefeld One Hertz Fire…. Apt name based on the colouring of the dial and markers

and now for the movement on the One Hertz Fire, which I have to say is a lovely sight… if you have not guessed I’m a fan of a nice looking modern stylistic movement.

and again

The obligatory wrist shot, yes we do try and wear the watches we photograph so we can get a feel for the weight and comfort factor.

Moving on from Gronefeld as we can’t just keep showing you photo’s of the One Hertz Fire, so now we move onto Hermes, starting with a little look at the Hermes stand at SalonQP and the latest movement which enabled them to begin making ladies watches as Mechanical Automatics and not Quartz.

Now on to the watches that Hermes have to offer

and just one more Hermes automatic watch

Now that is nearly the end of our SalonQp Photo diary, just one more article to post tomorrow and that will include the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Guiliano Mazzouli, Schofield Watch Company and Speake Marin…

Introducing Hublot King Power “Arturo Fuente” Limited Edition Timepiece

Press Release by Hublot S.A.

The most sought-after of cigars, the “Opus X”, the “Arturo Fuente” factory, which has just celebrated its 100-year anniversary; a Cuban family with a deep love for its adopted home, the Dominican Republic…

…or when a cigar manufacturer meets a watchmaking manufacture, when the men at the controls share the same philosophy and form a bond of friendship, the result is known as:

King Power “Arturo Fuente”

In tribute to the Opus X, the rarest cigar in the world, according to some connoisseurs. A cigar as unique as its history… The world of a Cuban family with a most remarkable story, involving some of the most remarkable cigars around. Let’s go back to the mid-80s. Carlos Fuente was exploring an area near Santiago in the Dominican Republic, which bore a strange resemblance to the “Pinard del rio” valley, from where the legend of Cuban cigars sprang. He had the idea of growing tobacco plants there: but not just any plants, wrapper tobacco. Yes, wrapper tobacco in Santo Domingo. The whole industry took him for a madman. Be that as it may, he persisted and he succeeded. In a feat of farming, the tobacco emerging from Château de la Fuente is unique, boasting an exceptional power and wealth of aroma.

And while the vast majority of cigars comprise 5 tobacco leaves (wrapper, binder and 3 more leaves for filler), the Opus X has 9! Why, you might ask? Carlito’s answer is simple: “So that in every puff, you will discover a surprise.” In fact, every module is composed like a book, with its own introduction and chapters. However the Torcedores (the cigar makers) did not go along with this, and refused to make such cigars. Carlito had no hesitation; to make his dream come true, he created a school of Torcedores where he spent 10 months teaching his new recruits his vision of cigars.

In another successful feat, in 1992 the first Opus X emerged from Tabacalera Fuente, making it the first Dominican Puro (cigar deriving all its leaves from the same source). As the ultimate perfectionists, the Fuente family choose to “mature” them for at least 2 years before exporting, for the aromas of the various tobaccos to make a harmonious blend. What more is there to say, except that the whole world is latching onto the Opus X?

But this cigar is not just innovative for its design and tobacco. Its factory is completely unique, similar in many points to the Hublot watchmaking manufacture: 300 employees work there, as at Hublot, organised in workshops. The Opus X has a whole dedicated room, just like the complications at Hublot, where the Master Torcedores have their own domain, like the Master Watchmakers: they are both hotbeds of expert hands, know-how and exclusively reserved components. The similarities in organisation are striking… The Hublot and Arturo Fuente boutiques are even neighbours in Las Vegas.

But that is not all. Carlos Fuente Sr and Carlito Fuente have a deep love for their adopted home, the Dominican Republic. This country has many abandoned or orphaned children. Carlito is very aware of this scourge, to combat which he set up a School and Foundation in the heart of the tobacco plantations, with all the facilities necessary to house the children until they reach maturity. Giving and sharing – once more an outlook similar to that of Hublot, which never fails to tie in its events and operations with its ambassadors for the benefit of foundations and charity actions worldwide.

The King Power “Arturo Fuente” limited series is delivered in a genuine cigar case developed specially by Hublot, a blend between Macassar ebony and carbon. The top contains an exclusive OPUS X ring accompanied by the Hublot logo signature.

To mark the presentation of this watch, Arturo Fuente has created a special edition of OPUS X cigars for Hublot, with special rings.

King Power “Arturo Fuente” – Technical Details

References: 703.OX.3113.HR.OPX12 King Gold version. Limited series of 100 pieces numbered from 0/100 to 100/100

703.CI.3113.HR.OPX12 Ceramic version. Limited series of 200 pieces numbered from 0/200 to 200/200

Case King Power – Diameter 48 mm in 18K King Gold or micro blasted ceramic

Bezel 18K King Gold or Black ceramic

Crystal Sapphire Ǿ 35.50×3.00 mm, with anti-reflective coating

Crown 18K King Gold satin-finished or micro-blasted black ceramic, Black rubber insert

Push-pieces 2 push pieces 18K King Gold or ceramic, Black rubber insert

Case-back 18K King Gold or ceramic with Exclusive Arturo Fuente illustration transfer celebrating the 100th anniversary

Water resistance 10 ATM, i.e. approx 100 metres

Dial Matt brown, with 18K King gold plated indexes with black SuperLuminova™, Fuentes cigar logo transfer at 6 o’clock

Hands Satin-finished 18K red gold hands with black SuperLuminova™

Movement HUB4100 Mechanical chronograph with automatic winding

No. of components 252

Jewels 27

Power reserve Approximately 42 hours

Strap Adjustable black rubber and brown Hornback alligator strap with white stitching

Clasp King Gold version: satin finished King Gold cap, black PVD deployment buckle, Ceramic version: micro-blasted black PVD titanium deployment buckle.

The Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater

Press Release by Jaquet Droz

THE BIRDS OF JAQUET DROZ, A DREAM IN MANY DIMENSIONS

Born in 1721, Pierre Jaquet-Droz, the founder of the Workshop that was soon to bear his name, was above all a child of the Swiss Jura. In these valleys that are still today the cradle of Swiss watchmaking excellence, there is a sense of life in communion with the natural surroundings. The sound of birdsong accompanies the cycle of the seasons. And the songs of these creatures, a source of fascination during the Enlightenment for naturalist and fashionable aesthete alike, must have sounded sweetly to the young prodigy during his summers beside the waterfall of the Saut du Doubs.

Beautiful, free and fascinating, birds captivated the age, and from the beginning of his career, the young watchmaker was to make this trend his own. For while Pierre Jaquet-Droz made his mark as a virtuoso of horological engineering, he was also an audacious businessman as well as an aesthete, in tune with the tastes of his time. At a time when the Encyclopédie was being compiled, the sciences were winning their spurs and the foundations of the industrial revolution were taking shape, Pierre Jaquet-Droz was taking on a veritable challenge: imitating life. His automata – the Musician, the Writer, the Draughtsman, and others, now exhibited at the Neuchâtel museum of art and history – would go on to astonish the many crowned heads of the time.

But Nature is equally honored in this singular vision, where birds are particularly well represented. Like a scientist dissecting his subject of study to achieve perfect understanding of its secrets, Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his successors made a reputation with their series of long-case clocks. Very quickly abreast of the latest innovations in miniaturization, they soon began to create breathtaking singing watches. At first incorporated in real birdcages, these creations benefited from developments in miniature clock-making, and were soon transformed into pocket watches and table clocks of proportions as small as they were refined. True stars of their period, the “birds” at the famous farm of Sur le Pont at La Chaux-de-Fonds are treasures, not only of mechanics, but also of the decorative arts of the period. Enamels reproducing the finest nuances of plumage; gold, pearls, precious stones – nothing was too good for these exceptional timepieces, which won Jaquet-Droz the international renown that persists to this day.

THE BIRD REPEATER

For many years, whether on the canvas where the painter brings his work into being or the dial where the sculptor applies his relief decoration, the brand’s workshops have paid homage to birds and brought them to life.

Today, Jaquet Droz adds a new dimension to mankind’s age-old dream of flying and pushes back the boundaries of Haute Horlogerie with The Bird Repeater. This exceptional timepiece, conceived by the craftsmen of the House, blends the history, know-how and imaginative power of Jaquet Droz in a way as precious as it is original.

In a stunning visual show, The Bird Repeater represents two Blue Tits, symbolic of Pierre Jaquet-Droz’s native Jura region, together over the nest containing their fledglings. In another nod to the origins of the Manufacture, the Saut du Doubs waterfall also figures on the dial of this new horological treasure. Fully animated by a mechanism of unequalled complexity, this three-dimensional picture truly comes to life. While one of the birds bobs to give a beakful of food to its offspring, the wings of its companion spread to reveal their delicate shades of colour. An egg in the middle of the nest opens to reveal a chick, while the water of the stream flows in a continuous cascade.

The Bird Repeater is an authentic automaton, with a cam system inherited directly from the century of Enlightenment, and it calls upon the resources of all the decorative crafts. Jaquet Droz engravers and painters have worked together to produce the yellow, blue, white and deep black of the birds’ plumage, the perfectly balanced volumes and the finely detailed wisps of grass forming the nest. To achieve the realism of this scene no less than eight different animation mechanisms act in synchronism: the movement of the birds’ heads and wings, the movement of the fledglings, the hatching of the egg, the sparkle of the flowing water.

True to the brand’s extremely exacting philosophy, Jaquet Droz has given The Bird Repeater one of haute horlogerie’s most virtuoso complications: Minute Repetition. Simply pressing the pushbutton makes the watch strike the hours, quarters and minutes and sets the wonderful animated sequences in motion. The resonance and mellow tone of its cathedral gong, generated by two turns around the mechanism, are equaled only by the complexity of the system of chimes incorporated in the gold case, 47 mm in diameter and only 18.4 mm thick.

The Bird Repeater, made up of 508 separate components, has a 48-hour power reserve, and is available in two versions, one in grey gold set with diamonds and the other in red gold, each one in a limited edition of just 8 pieces. The outcome of two years of development, this new, dazzling masterpiece is the latest illustration, and doubtless the most extreme example of the uniqueness of the Jaquet Droz spirit: giving life, like no other, to the poetry of Time.

The Bird Repeater is already on view today, but the Manufacture is in the process of completing a piece that will be the crowning glory of its historic link with the world of birds when it is presented at Baselworld 2013. At La Chaux-de-Fonds, like the song of the blue tits and the music of the Saut du Doubs waterfall, the enchantment of Time will not soon fade away.

 The Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater – Technical Details

HUBLOT celebrates the 2012 FORMULA 1 UNITED STATES GRAND PRIX by unveiling the F1™ King Power Austin

Press Release by Hublot S.A.

This year marks the grand return of Formula 1™ to the United States. The penultimate Grand Prix of the season will take place from the 16th to the 18th of November at the brand new “Circuit of The Americas” built in Austin, Texas. To mark this key event in American sporting history, Hublot, as the Official Watch of Formula 1™, has decided to introduce a special watch, the aptly-named F1™ King Power Austin, available as a limited edition of just 250 numbered pieces.

With its titanium case, a material chosen for its lightness, resistance to corrosion and biocompatibility, this watch features unique elements which ensure it stands apart, created using diverse high-tech materials directly inspired by Formula 1™, such as the carbon and titanium bezel, satin-finished with a perforated effect which brings to mind the cutting edge performance of an high tech brake disc, the start and reset push-pieces, and a 30-minute timer at 3 o’clock.

The strap is made from black Hornback alligator leather, accentuating the refined and powerful style of the piece, sewn onto black rubber which ensures that the strap is comfortable, hard-wearing and exceptionally flexible, with the red stitching subtly picking up the colour of the dial.

Hublot F1 King Power Austin – Technical details

Reference 703.NQ.8512.HR.FTX12

Series Limited to 250 pieces numbered from 01/250 to 250/250

Movement Hublot HUB4100, Mechanical chronograph with automatic winding

Date Date window at 4.30

Bridges Rhodium-plated, polished & satin-finished

Number of components 234 – Jewels: 27

Power reserve Approximately 42 hours

Case “King Power” – diameter 48 mm in vertical satin-finished titanium

Bezel Titanium and carbon fibre, in “High tech brake disc” style

6 H-shaped titanium screws

Crystal Sapphire with anti-reflective coating

Bezel Lugs Black composite resin

Lateral inserts Black composite resin

Crown Titanium and black rubber

Push-pieces START with red rubber inserts and black text at 2 o’clock, RESET in black rubber with red text at 4 o’clock

Case-back Openworked, titanium

Water resistance Approximately 100 metres or 10 ATM

Dial Red and black, charcoal grey index with black SuperLuminova™, Grey F1 logo at 12 o’clock

Hands Vertical satin-finished with black SuperLuminova™

Strap Adjustable black hornback alligator leather sewn onto black rubber with red stitching

Clasp Black PVD titanium “King Power” deployant buckle, titanium cap and decorative plate