Kennett Savro Men’s Watch – Hands on Review

We are looking to launch our British Watches Section on The Watch Review Site not only will we be including all our news and reviews previously undertaken on British watchmakers like Christopher Ward, Schofield Watch Company, Bremont Watch company, Speake-Marin and Robert Loomes to name a few. We are kicking off with our first ‘Hands on Review’ of one of the Tom Kennett Men’s Watch range and where better than with the Savro…. We will also be undertaking Video Reviews and this will be the first but due to technical issues we will have to bring this to you later (the video that is)…. Sorry — So look out for the new section of our site coming soon…

For those of you who have not heard of our Tom Kennett, well young Tom is a Scottish designer and entrepreneur who first launch the Kennett brand as a Cuff Links and Accessories designer in 2007 with a view to introducing watches to the brand later, this venture was successful and Tom was voted Young Designer of the Year in his category and has subsequently had nominations in various awards ever since. Tom launched his Watch brand off the back of this success in 2009 and the Kennett brand is now focussed on the design and manufacture of luxury watches and cufflinks, and can be found in over 10 countries worldwide, We have seen Tom improve the Kennett brand over the years and are glad for the opportunity to take a look at his watches a little closer.

We have had all three Kennett Men’s Watches in for hands on Review thanks to Tom Kennett himself and a fine selection it is, for starters all the current range have a Miyota Quartz movement, the Savro sports a Miyota chronograph movement, these movements have a growing reputation in the industry and are on par with their Swiss counterparts at Ronda and the like. We also have it on good authority that a new Kennett Swiss Made Range is due for launch soon, will be interested in seeing what this young Scottish designer has in store for us here.

So back to the Savro Chronograph well the movement provides for a chrono seconds hand activated and stopped by the top pusher, an hour sub dial at 3 o’clock (not linked to the chronograph function, just states the current hour), a small seconds at 6 o’clock and chronograph minutes indicator at 9 o’clock, along with the standard two handed time display. Oh and a date in between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers.

The model we have had the pleasure in reviewing is the Black and Silver Savro Men’s Watch, I keep on saying Men’s watch as Kennett has just recently launched a ladies range and the Savro is his first watch in this sector. (Tom has promised to send one for review soon) The Men’s Savro is part of what Kennett call their Black Label Range, which is to define elegance, classic looks and a watch for the more formal occasion, whether it be work or play.

The colour combination works very well with the Black face and Silver Tachymeter internal fixed bezel and silver Roman numerals and indicators, as for lume there is none really, but hey it’s not a pilots watch or a divers is it, It is marketed as a dress watch and as such is it really required, this dial is offset fabulously by the shiny polished stainless steel case and domed glass/crystal (both making taking photographs of this timepiece very difficult) which all tolled make the Kennett Savro much more desirable than its price tag.

Furthermore it is adorned with a black Italian leather strap and crisp polished stainless steel buckle, the case back is also polished stainless steel and has the Kennet logo and name etched into the centre with the usual elements engraved around the edge, these being the fact that it is stainless steel case, base and bezel and the fact that it is Water resistant to 5 ATM or 50 meters.

So enough about the functionality and looks and onto the feel of the watch, well it is 43.5 mm in diameter and fits extremely well on my 6 ¾ inch wrists, the Savro is comfortable to wear and we have put it through its paces. As we said it is comfortable, clean, crisp and well proportioned, you easily forget it is on your wrist when wearing it for the day, which we class as a good thing and it does get noticed when peeking out from under your shirt cuff (should have got Tom Kennett to send us some of those Cuff links he makes too).

One thing we loved about the Savro was the Blue Chronograph second hand, it just sets off the entire watch and looks fab. Little things I hear you all say…
The Savro is also available in the following variations fit for all tastes, you have Stainless Steel case with white face and internal bezel with either black or tan leather strap and Rose Gold Tone plated case with white face and internal bezel with either black or dark brown leather strap. On the white dial that lovely blue seconds hand is even more distinctive.

So that is five different variations, our favourite is probably the Rose Gold on dark brown strap even though I have never been a Rose Gold man, it just really suits the watches style and look.

As with The Watch Review Site’s usual tradition on Hands on Reviews we have the watches technical details below and a little photo gallery below that. Oh and the Savro is available online form various retailers included direct from Kennet at http://www.kennettonline.com/  and we probably forgot to mention that all Kennet Watches come with a Kennett 2 year guarantee.

You can also follow the brand on twitter https://twitter.com/kennettbrand and Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/kennettglobal

Kennet Men’s Savro Chronograph Watch – Technical Details

 Case: Polished Stainless Steel
Case Width: 43mm
Thickness: 13.5mm
Weight: 75g
Movement: Miyota Quartz Chronograph
Dial: Black with Silver internal bezel, also available White with White internal bezel
Strap: Leather strap, black, tan or dark brown
Water Resistance: 5ATM or 50 meters
Look: Classic/Formal

Links of London Watches: The Capital’s Time Continues

Written by Luke McNaney for The Watch Review Site

2012 has seen London committed to its turn in the spotlight, following up the Jubilee celebrations with the much-lauded London 2012 Olympic Games. Timekeeping was, as it always is, closely linked to the success of the Games and this year OMEGA assumed its role as Official OIympic Timekeeper for the 25^th time – rather impressive, no?

However, OMEGA is not the only watch brand to make time for London. The capital’s moment as the global focus may begin to wane, despite the city hosting the Paralympics from 29 August (with timing and scoring services once again provided by OMEGA), but homegrown fashion brand Links of London will continue to fly the flag for England’s premier city with its line of designer timepieces.

Although the dedicated watch aficionado may favour more prestigious Swiss manufacturers, there is a lot to be said for the well-constructed watches from some of the more distinguished names in the fashion world. Links of London is a relatively young company, having been founded in 1990, but has quickly made strides worldwide with its London-inspired jewellery collections available in the UK, Hong Kong, USA and Canada.

The brand has established a contemporary watch collection that seamlessly combines the aesthetic of its popular jewellery items with high grade performance. Despite offering a gents range, which includes the latest motorsport-inspired design Chicane (a sort of budget version of a TAG Heuer Carrera), a Links of London watch is perhaps best reserved for the fashion-conscious female in need of a stylish counterpoint to a Tissot reserved for special occasions.

Coming in at the £350 mark are Links’ popular Sweetie watches, which are bold in their simplicity. The rectangular styling encloses plain block colour dials, with expandable stainless steel bracelets providing a smart finish that makes these a perfect tip for both the office and play. Despite the cloying name, Sweetie watches represent the high-end epitome of the brand’s watch output.

Almost reserved in its approach, Sweetie is further complemented by the contrasting bold colours of the aptly named Colour Blaze collection, which catches the eye with striking dials and rubber straps, and the edgy, darker urban series (which is perhaps not so aptly named!) Phoebe.

Although the options outlined here are of course more frivolous than a ladies Seamaster or suchlike, they’re inherently appealing in their accessibility (costing between £200 – £350) and Links of London’s twin concerns of fashion and functionality.

Article provided by Luke McNaney, Online Content Writer for The Jewel Hut. You can follow Luke on Twitter @jewelhut_LM.

Cartier Tank Anglaise Watch – The Launch

Written by D Constant for The Watch Review Site

Well was it worth the wait… Cartier enthusiasts will definitely think so and so do we.

Well it has been 16 years since we have seen a new Cartier Tank style released and now its our turn its the 2012 New Cartier Tank Anglaise or English Tank… I think Tank Anglaise sounds more Cartier like and befits this timepiece rather than its literal translation…

So, what have Cartier got in stall for us with the new Tank Anglaise, Well it was first shown to the world at BaselWorld 2012 back in March and its has now been launched in the UK and across the world by this infamous jeweller. This new Tank is a sort of cross between the Tank Francaise and the Ballon Bleu, see for yourself.

As per time honoured recent tradition Cartier have produced a Video Introducing us to the Tank Anglaise and highlighting its predecessors in History all the way back to the first Tank in 1917. I’m sure we will be seeing a new Tank in 5 years for the centenary. Here’s the Video for you all to see.

Video courtesy of Cartier – Never Stop Tank – Tank Anglaise Watch Video

As a quick brief the Cartier Tank Anglaise will be available in Large (Men’s) 47mm Long and 36.2mm wide , Medium (Unisex) 39.2mm long and 29.8mm and Small (Women’s) 30.2mm x 22.7mm Sizes. and they are all a new slimline Cartier Tank with the thickness ranging from 9.82mm to 7.19mm.

As you can see the Cartier Tank Anglaise has kept its Classic Cartier Silvered Dial with Blue Hands a must with a Tank (I’m sure most Cartier watch buyers would agree, a timeless classic dial) , what does strike you as interesting is the crown feature and cut out extruding from the Bezel, I actually really like the idea and it seems to work very well with this timepiece. It offers a flush finish to the side of the watch and also incorporates the mainstay of Cartier it’s sapphire crystal cabochon on the crown. Its Angular extrusions with the rounded end piece and sapphire make it an artwork in itself.

The Cartier Tank Anglaise Watch is available in Three Colours these being 18k White Gold, Yellow Gold and Rose Gold, Yes no Steel options yet… and they all come with matching bracelets

They have also got a number of different diamond options, one with diamonds on each side of the bezel and others fully encrusted, if that’s your cup of tea. For regular readers of our articles and reviews, you will already know at The Watch Review Site we are not overly keen on diamond encrustation…

Now to the nitty gritty of the Cartier Tank Anglaise Watch, It comes with either Quartz movements or Automatic Movements depending on which model and size you opt for, The pick of the bunch will have to be the Large Model which features Cartier’s inhouse caliber 1904 MC Automatic Movement, oh I forgot to mention the Sapphire Crystal Exhibition Case back that comes on all the watches, this means you can now see the movements creativity also.

The Cartier Tank Anglaise Small all come with a Cartier 057 Quartz movement, The Medium non Diamond Tank Anglaise have the Caliber Cartier 077 Automatic Self Winding Mechanical Movement and the Diamond versions have the Cartier 076 Automatic Movement at the heart of the timepiece.

And for anyone contemplating wearing the Cartier Tank Anglaise whilst washing the dishes or swimming it is water resistant to 30m.

The Tank Anglaise Watch Small starts from £15,000, with the Tank Anglaise Medium starting from £21,750 and Large from £26,750 for the Rose or Yellow Gold Non-Diamond versions, with the White Gold being slightly more expensive.

Well so Cartier has now covered the French (Tank Francaise), Americans (Tank Americaine) and now us Brits with The Cartier Tank Anglaise. With no bias at all I would have to say this is the best Tank Watch yet.

Photo’s and Video content courtesy of Cartier.

Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon – Another one for the Ladies

Roger Dubuis – 2012 Collections

Four worlds for an extraordinary universe

— Pulsion —— Velvet —— Excalibur —— La Monegasque —

ROGER DUBUIS has been at the forefront of the contemporary Fine Watchmaking scene since 1995. Its audacious creations, firmly anchored in the 21st century, bear the mark of all the savoirfaire and expertise of the finest watchmaking mechanisms. Rich in conceptual creativity and mechanical detail, its collections are inspired by four different worlds: Player, Warrior, and two newcomers: Venturer and Diva. They will give the inspiration to embark upon this New Year of 2012.

More than just a traditional watch manufacture, ROGER DUBUIS is the reflection of a space spilling over with creative ideas. The Genevan watchmaker has taken its inspiration from four different and distinctive worlds from which it has created a universe in which exuberance takes pride of place and creativity reigns supreme. These four worlds feed the imagination of their designers and contribute to the construction of the brand’s image: Player, Warrior, and those who will be at the forefront of the stage in 2012, Venturer and Diva.

ROGER DUBUIS immerses itself in the atmosphere of each of these worlds in order to create exceptional watch models. The Monégasque Collection refers to the boldness and wit of the world of the Player. The Excalibur Collection is influenced by the strength, brilliance and discipline of the world of the Warrior. The limitations of ordinary life have no place in the world of the Venturer, or in the Pulsion watch models that evoke it. Finally, the world of the Diva is impregnated with elegance and beauty, just like the Velvet Collection that has been inspired by it.

With the clear desire to look to the future to create the watches of tomorrow today, ROGER DUBUIS challenges the senses day after day. Each of its four fantasy worlds occupies a clearly defined territory and helps to inspire the collections Excalibur, La Monégasque, Pulsion and Velvet, that will write new chapters in the history of watchmaking. The brand infuses them with the conventions that it holds dear: a case that clearly defines identity; reliability and expertise; boldness and total authenticity. With the touch of mystery and the unexpected that is a characteristic feature.

Venturer – Pulsion

Growing through action For ever walking on a tightrope, always off the beaten path, the boundaries of normality have no meaning in his life. The world of the Venturer is marked by danger and challenge. Adrenalin is his fuel, action is his engine, intelligence and alertness are his protection. This is the world that permeates the new Pulsion Collection from the Genevan watchmaker ROGER DUBUIS. These are timepieces made in his own image: naturally powerful, and effortlessly controlled.

For the Venturer is of the breed who defy the rules, despite the pitfalls, which he overcomes without a single false move. His resolute gaze shows that he is not around just to make up the numbers. He is a man who is determined to set the pace, someone who likes to push back the boundaries. The Venturer is marked by strength of character, a constant desire to surpass himself and the ability to handle every situation. He flirts with danger, but accurately assesses the risks to avoid the pitfalls.

He is the total master of his own destiny. If he seems to be constantly on the edge of the precipice, he knows how to hold the road and easily handles the trickiest of bends. He never loses his head. His world is both attractive and disconcerting at the same time. We sense that he is no stranger to exciting and daring experiences. More than just a lifestyle, he represents the art of good living. The world of the Venturer is a constant succession of the most powerful, intense and astonishing exploits.

The models in the new Pulsion Collection from the Genevan watchmaker ROGER DUBUIS are inspired by the world of the Venturer and embody a certain image of raw virility. They are defined by both clear lines and a certain impenetrability, combined with strength and presence. Their mechanical movements, characterised by discipline and rigour, are the embodiment of veritable watchmaking challenges. As soon as the observer sets eyes upon them, they impose their very special way of occupying space and their powerful identity: pure charm in its natural state. Their force and their boldness give them a sense of difference, of triumph and of mystery: the very essence of imaginative force.

In this way Pulsion watches form an integral part of the extraordinary universe of ROGER DUBUIS. A world that marks out a new approach and reforges the identity of Fine Watchmaking. What the Genevan watchmaker is introducing is nothing less than a new mode of aesthetic expression, reinforced by unique standards of mechanical reliability and precision.

Watches in the Pulsion Collection include

Skeleton Flying Tourbillon in Titanium

Chronograph in Black titanium

Chronograph in titanium

Chronograph in pink gold

Diva -VelvetIcon of chic and charm

For her, nothing is ever accidental or ordinary. The world of the Diva is perhaps best defined by thinking of her as a “muse”. Her entire personality expresses a specific point of view or vision. Her passionate nature, totally dedicated to cultivating elegance, and daring character, are an inexhaustible source of inspiration. The world of the Diva has inspired the new Velvet Collection, and beautifully embodies the mischievous femininity of the watches created by the Genevan watchmaker ROGER DUBUIS.

The subject of the new fantasy world imagined by ROGER DUBUIS, the Diva applies the philosophy of the Genevan watchmaker by seeking to encapsulate both the beautiful and also the hidden side of life, marked by all that is different. Her totally uncompromising character reflects a wish to express the most extravagant side of each of the models in the Velvet Collection for which she is the inspiration. The refined models of the new Velvet Collection mark the time with their character day by day and reveal an aesthetic rigour that is constantly stimulated by the desire to create something that is totally exceptional.

Over and above this wish to highlight all that is different, the Diva accurately reflects the women of today. These are women who never stop, are always seeking to turn each and every second into a precious moment and who are uncompromisingly demanding towards themselves. They who are passionate and hugely admired, and the objects they come to possess hold the keys to another world. Freed from all that is illusory, they are drawn towards the essential heart of things. For them, instinct is a second nature. Contemporary and seductive, they cultivate the art of the extravagant. In this they are totally faithful to the spirit of the Diva, and are free to go where others do not dare.

In the spirit of a truly refined style, the Diva re-creates the purest expression of all that is chic. Elegance is important, but glamour even more so: the models in the Velvet Collection are quick to earn pride of place on a woman’s wrist. Playing with graphic motifs on dials, distorting the shapes of cases, turning bracelet attachments into precious links: such things are not for them. Breaking with conformity, nevertheless they carry with them all the discipline of Fine Watchmaking, offering a unique combination of creative flair and technical expertise. The result is seen in watches that establish a permanent dialogue between virtuosity and poetry.

Daring takes on its full meaning with the creations by ROGER DUBUIS. With its Velvet Collection, the Genevan watchmaker takes one stop more on the road towards all that is different. What really counts is not to be like others, and to focus on the brand’s creative core, its famous codes of identity. There is enormous pleasure to be had in entering the universe of ROGER DUBUIS. That of discovering (or rediscovering) worlds that inspire the finest lines of watches to have ever been created. Creativity, personality, reliability, excellence, daring – this is where it all converges and emerges.

Watches in the Velvet Collection include

Amethysts and Spinels

Fine Jewellery in White Gold

Diamonds in White Gold

Jewellery in pink gold

Warrior – Excalibur

An atmosphere of chivalry, in which duels are synonymous with courage, and where a certain nobility of combat exists, inspired by a bygone age: welcome to the world of the Warrior! A world that brings to mind the symbolism of the Round Table, of the quest for the Holy Grail, the fight of good against evil and the defence of the realm. Here, as a characteristic of the era, men have the power to choose their destiny. It is from this world of choreographed mastery and power that ROGER DUBUIS reveals the Excalibur Collection.

Just like the orders of chivalry, the world of the Warrior is symbolised by the coat of arms. With its perfect gestures, sharpened swords and dazzling armour, the image of the world of the Warrior recalls a universe of nobility, strength, splendour and discipline. Like the watches from the Excalibur Collection, the knight carries inside him the aestheticism of combat, the beauty of the brave soldier, and the precision of the quest for excellence.

If the valiant wish their arms to win glory and victory, they must never lose sight of what makes them so daring and unflinching: their courage. The world of the Warrior gives great importance to the value of courage. Knowledge of their own resources, boldness, efficiency: these are the qualities that characterise those who act with dignity. The virtue of discipline should also be added to those referred to above. Knowing the different routes by which a goal can be attained, following closely the agreed plan of battle: these are the foundations for the combat of a valiant fighter.

Then comes the action. Victory remains the main objective and everything depends on subtly obtaining it. The knight is an extremely well-trained elite warrior, able to use both the sword and the lance with equal mastery. Honour, loyalty and honesty are found in each of his movements. It is from this strength and brilliance that the models in ROGER DUBUIS’ Excalibur Collection take their inspiration. Competition is a source of inexhaustible creativity for the Genevan watchmaker who has created and designed watches whose very nature expresses power and brilliance.

Watches in the Excalibur Collection include

Automatic in Pink Gold

Automatic in Steel

Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon in Black titanium

Player – La Monegasque

The world of the Player is a perfect symbiosis between adrenalin, precision and mystery. For him a spirit of adventure, natural elegance and glamour form part of everyday life. His world is daring and masterful, as he is a purveyor of strong sensations. In this he is very close to the world of Fine Watchmaking. Taking their inspiration from this universe, the watches in the Monégasque Collection from ROGER DUBUIS are dream machines that place their technical mastery at the service of creating emotion.

His roots are in the gambling world, but he is also capable of adapting to real life. The Player is a modern hero. He is somebody who considers risk as a supreme value but never forgets that the objective is always attained through skill and control. If he loves the accidental and intuitive side of games of chance, it is because he believes in his own lucky star. He is moved by the poetry of chance.

Fascinating, captivating, utterly intriguing, the universe of the Player is synonymous with freedom and has a great deal in common with the world of Fine Watchmaking. Both are domains governed by passion, elegance, mastery, enterprise and discipline. Anything goes, and the wildest follies become exciting challenges for the craftsmen of the extreme. Moderation and excess alternately mark the pace for these artisans of the exceptional who respond to the most detailed requirements for technical reliability and performance.

Imbued with the world of gambling, the Monégasque Collection from ROGER DUBUIS reflects a style that is intimately linked to one of the chicest of all the coastal resorts in the Mediterranean. Bathed in sunshine and luminosity, La Monégasque encapsulates the spirit of the location and participates in all the style and glamour of the Principality. Does time seem to stretch out languidly before one: a bold design, a contemporary line and a unique, innovative shape that lays out a perfect circle. Details take precedence over effects. The collection represents a notion of style rather than of fashion, characterised by a sober elegance and original forms.

Watches in the La Monegasque Collection include

Flying Tourbillon in Pink Gold

 

Faithful to the tradition of excellence that has established the reputation of the Genevan watchmaker, all the models in the above new Roger Dubuis Collections comply with all the latest requirements for the “Poinçon de Genève”. This mark of quality, issued by the Canton of Geneva to a small number of watchmakers, represents an official guarantee that the watch and its functions operate correctly. It also certifies that the watch movement is made by hand, assembled and regulated in Geneva and that it complies with the strict requirements laid down for the watch manufacture. Roger Dubuis is the only watch Manufacture to produce 100% of its movements in accordance with the criteria of the “Poinçon de Genève”.

In a Watch World Far, Far Away: Futuristic Watches

The Watch review site presents articles written by Meehna Goldsmith The Watch Lady

Written by Meehna Goldsmith

Watch Review Futuristic Watches 

From Time Machine and Brave New World to Star Wars, Blade Runner and The Matrix, we are fascinated by the future. Usually, these worlds are portrayed as post-apocalyptic nightmares where the human species is undone by their own doing. An everyman, our hero or heroine, bucks against the evil system in power to save humanity.  Win some, lose some.

The Story of Jaquet Droz – Watchmaker Since 1783

Written By: D Constant for The Watch Review Site

The Beginning – How it all started

The story of Jaquet Droz the Watchmaker began with Pierre Jaquet Droz and his sons, and can be seen as one of the most moving stories in Horology history. Pierre Jaquet Droz born 1721, was know to be a mechanical genius, creator of jewellery watchmaking and composer of poetry and was one of the most fascinating figures of the period.

Pierre’s mastery of complex mechanisms and movements allowed him to become a master of automata and his creations were also genuine works of art, from singing birds, fountains, and musical watches to name a few.

Pierre Jaquet droz was the creator of The Writer (1775), which was a unique automaton and a true piece of art, which consisted 0f a six hundred piece mechanism and was extremely complex, much more intricate than those of other automata of its time. It could be set to write any text of up to forty letters or symbols on a smooth piece of paper, as if on a typewriter. Two other automata, The Musician and The Draftsman, were designed by his two sons, both of whom were trained by Pierre. These creations can still be admired today some 200 years later at the Neuchâtel Museum of Art and History in Switzerland.

Pierre Jaquet Droz was always at the forefront of developments in watchmaking, creating limited series that were seen as true artistic masterpieces. His ingenuity and talent were recognized throughout the world and applauded by all the Courts of Europe,Russia and even China.

Pierre in his wisdom surrounded himself with the best watchmakers, alchemists, mechanics, enamellers and gemstone craftsmen and opened three Manufactures:

La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1738, He begun absorbing the rudiments of watchmaking and mechanics in his father’s farm workshop very quickly. From this workshop in La Ferme sur le Pont in 1738, he started producing and selling standing and table clocks of increasing complexity, often enlivened with all manner of automata and musical mechanisms at the age of 17. It was in his first workshop that Pierre Jaquet Droz began to specialize in the production and exportation of timekeepers endowed with Grand Complications such a singing bird, or mechanism striking hour…The workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds excelled in all fields of mechanical ingenuity.

London in 1774: This was Pierre Jaquet Droz second watchmaking workshop and was based in London, This workshop was headed by Henry-Louis (Pierre’s Son). Henry provided a striking demonstration of his strategic audacity and his far-reaching vision. London was the commercial decision making heart of Europe and the key business center. Henry-Louis was the first to recognise the potential of London as a trade base to China (that’s forward thinking). As with all ventures Henry-Louis was overworked and hence, delegated a part of his responsibilities to Jean-Frédéric Leschot, the adoptive son of Pierre Jaquet Droz. Jean Frederic was in particular responsible for dealing with Cox & Son, who went on to represent Jaquet Droz in China, India and Japan for many years.

Genevain 1784: Henry-Louis decided to move to Geneva a town whose artistic and literary life he appreciated and he was soon joined by Jean-Frédéric Leschot, together they set up Geneva’s first real horological workshop, a year before Vacheron Constantin appeared on the scene. This manufacture was set up to specialise in limited production and export luxury pieces, musical boxes, automatons and Grand Complications. The talent and interest which Henry-Louis Jaquet Droz and Jean-Frédéric Leschot demonstrated for the general welfare of the town were soon recognized and rewarded. They were both made honorary citizens and interest was shown in their business activities. Jaquet Droz was welcomed by the Geneva Society of Arts, which had just been re-formed and he played a highly active role in improving vocational training. In addition, he helped to set up a workshop-school in Geneva which produced under-dial work for repeaters. And Therefore Jaquet Droz watchmaker was born……

Pierre Jaquet Droz achieved many technological developments, these are some:

The suspended-barrel bridge caliber, invented by the French watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine in 1770. In the Manufacture’s accounting registers, watches produced with this caliber were designated by the expression “à la Lépine”.

The keyless watch device, where watches were rewound by repeatedly use of the pendant (pump winding). This technique was used on many watches in the 18th century, either to wind the main spring, for a “sonnerie au passage”, or a chime.

Automatically wound watches with an oscillating mass. Pierre Jaquet Droz contributed to raising awareness of this technical marvel first in England, then in the Far East.

Decoration of high luxury watches. The enamel on the case of Jaquet Droz models is embellished by gold foil and silver “sous fondant”. This enameling technique, called “paillonné”, was adopted by numerous Geneva enamellers.

 Jaquet Droz Corporate Movie 2012

That was the History, now to the recent Past and the resurrection of Montres Jaquet Droz SA

After a few years’ absence from the world of watchmaking, and a period marked by ownership of foreign shareholders, the brand was acquired in 2000 by the Swatch Group. The Swatch Group returned Jaquet Droz to its town of origin, La Chaux-de-Fonds, and moved in the summer of 2010 in to its new “Atelier de Haute Horlogerie”.

A short ten years from the resurgence of Jaquet Droz by The Swatch Group the success of Jaquet Droz is undeniable. The Manufacture is well positioned within the prestige and luxury segment of the Group. Marc A. Hayek, President, with a steering committee, has set himself the mission of cultivating this spirit of excellence and innovation while continuing to communicate emotional and poetical values. The link between the Age of Enlightenment (Pierre Jaquet Droz’s Era) and the third Millennium is therefore still at the heart of the brand’s creative inspiration and is seen in Jaquet Droz’s 8 Codes.

Code 1 – Grande Seconde

On a single dial, the hours and minutes counter, off-centered at 12 o’clock, embraces the seconds counter, situated at 6 o’clock, with echoes of Avant- Garde poetry, aesthetics at the very core of the identity of Jaquet Droz. From the 18th century to the third millennium, the Grande Seconde has been the eternal source of inspiration for the Manufacture of La Chaux-de-Fonds, a timeless icon in extremely exclusive interpretations which evolve with time and with each new collection.

Outlined with pearls or precious stones and clad in Grand Feu enameling or rare minerals, the Grande Seconde represents both prodigious history and the present moment and leaves the promises of the future to the imagination with the majestic elegance of its lines.

Code 2 – The 8 Symbol

Formed by two sub dials on the watch face, this symbol suggests the rarity of limited editions and exclusive models produced in small numbers. Representing infinity and eternity, the number 8 is one of the Manufacture’s most distinctive and magical numerological references. Jaquet Droz sub dials play with Arabic and Roman numerals, treat each passing moment as unique, in other words, they offer a new perception of Time.

Code 3 – Grand Feu Enameling

Grand Feu enameling is one of the expert techniques that constitute the signature of a Jaquet Droz watch. Combining traditional production methods with latest-generation technology, the dial-makers at Jaquet Droz have kept up with the latest developments in timepieces and the technical constraints that they involve. The Jaquet droz dial-makers are the sole guardians of the formula that yields these magnificent dials, whose color and graining are absolutely unique. Jaquet Droz has a long history of Grand Feu enameling and still practices the art today. Firing is carried out at a temperature exceeding 1,000°C, although lower temperatures are used for decoration and decals. New research has enabled Jaquet Droz, famous for its ivory-colored dials, to meet a major challenge by adding black and blue to its color repertoire. The number of coats needed to produce these shades, remarkable for their great depth, is variable, the color blue requiring the most.

You can see the attention to detail placed on Grand Feu Enameling with Jaquet Droz as the master dial-maker may create five or more dials and deem only one worth keeping.  The slightest imperfection is fatal as soon as a grain or crack is detected, the dial is rejected. The enamel will retain its beauty and gloss for centuries, withstanding the ravages of time indefinitely.

This is a distinctive signature of Jaquet Droz timepieces since the 18th century, it has been reinterpreted by the brand in its contemporary collections.

Code 4 – The Watch Case

At Jaquet Droz they see a watch case as a treasure chest full of mechanical wonders to track time. The case was carefully conceived to contain remarkable movements. The Manufacture believes that each watch case is absolutely essential, whether it has a screw-type back or comes in one piece. Each one undergoes no fewer than 80 different operations. That’s why Jaquet Droz prizes the hands of its master craftsmen above any manufacturing tool.

Code 5 – The Movement

Jaquet Droz has always incorporated cutting edge watchmaking technology into its timekeeping creations. All Jaquet Droz mechanical self winding and manually wound movements are engraved with a clover, the secret signature of the founder of the Manufacture. The bridges and plates are adorned with Côtes de Genève ribbing, while the luxurious sunray motif on the oscillating body is visible through the transparent case back.

Code 6 – Complications

Once again attempting to surpass it previous innovations, Jaquet Droz takes the inventiveness of its luxury watches to new heights with sophisticated complications, such as tourbillon, minute repeater, equation of time, perpetual calendar, jumping hour or chronograph.

Code 7 – Numerus Clausus

Jaquet Droz creates unique timepieces and its Numerus Clausus editions are limited to 8, 28 or 88 pieces. 

Code 8 – The Minerals

Jaquet Droz has fashioned inimitable watch dials from noble materials, treasures drawn from the depths of the Earth and from outer space. These dials offer the poetry of meteorites crossing galaxies, the geometry of rutilated inclusions in quartz, the mystery of onyx, aventurine, spectrolite, pietersite… Minerals are like the memory of the Earth and our galaxy. Whether they come from deep within the earth or the far reaches of space, they transform each watch dial into a fabulous journey through the infinity of time.

As you can all see the number 8 plays a big part in the Jaquet Droz dynasty, could this be why it was so popular in the far east or how it managed to develop and attain some of its history from its extensive dealing in the Far East…. its will come as no surprise as the Number 8 is associated with Luck and Good feelings in the Far East.

The watch masters in the Jaquet Droz family were pioneers in the art of luxury decoration as far back as the 18th century and in turn generated work for an entire generation of craftsmen. The success and fame of the Jaquet droz family increased after the introduction of paillons and painted motifs to decorate the enameled surfaces of watch cases and other masterpieces, pocket watches, decorative urns, snuffboxes and cages for mechanical singing birds. These techniques were finally adopted, but much later, by the enamellers of the time.

The special skills used by Jaquet Droz in the 18th century are still applied to a very few truly exceptional pieces in the Jaquet Droz collection. In wishing to honor the art of painting on enamel in the 21st century and uphold the traditions of its founder this painstaking decorative technique is applied to a few remarkable pieces in its collection. The painter does everything by hand, with the aid of a microscope and it takes at least 40 hours to produce each unique piece.

Another central point of Jaquet Droz watches is the art of enameling, which involves covering ornamental paillons (tiny motifs or paillettes, cut from gold or silver leaf) with fondant (translucent enamel) as described in Code 3. This technique is central to Jaquet Droz’s traditional expertise and during the 18th century Pierre transformed the technique into an art form.

As discussed in Code 1 – The Grande Seconde is the Timeless Icon of Jaquet Droz Watches

The dials are designed in such a way as to give excellent legibility, giving them their distinguished appearance. This iconic model first appeared in 1785, where Jaquet Droz created the Grande Seconde, and gave shape to a new way of perceiving space. It is the course of the seconds hand that provides us with the best visualization of the passing of Time, established many centuries ago.

With the “Grande Seconde” dial and its figure 8 inspired design, scientific precision is no longer the reserve of academics, merchants, priests and kings. Now any admirer of fine objects can share the privilege of precision and refinement.

Nearly two centuries after its creation, the philosophical values, aesthetic identity and scientific rigor of this iconic model remain, and prove the perpetuity of Jaquet Droz designs. Since its first launch, the product has appeared in a variety of different versions, these being Grande Seconde Enamel, Grande Seconde Minute Repeater and Grande Seconde Lady. These models illustrate the extraordinary level of skill of the dial makers and the infinite possibilities for personalization.

The aesthetics of the model has not aged in the slightest. Resolutely fashionable in the treatment of the typography of the numerals Roman or traditional for the hours and minutes, modern and immediately accessible for the seconds – the watch incarnates simultaneously an impressive history and the present moment.

The relative proportions of the two counters continue a line of geometrical progression inspired by the golden number – the figure 8 – a symbol at the very heart of Jaquet Droz’ identity.

The Grande Seconde finds a natural echo in the Grande Seconde SW, exemplary in its new approach to design. Entering the sports watch field for the first time, Jaquet Droz confirms its mastery of the aesthetic and technical concerns of the 21st century: massive, light, ultra-resistant and perfectly profiled, the Grande Seconde SW takes technical optimization and Swiss watchmaking tradition to greater heights.

At a time when all watchmaking Manufactures compete in technology and multiply the complications on the market, Jaquet Droz continue in their commitment to the essential, favoring art and longevity. Much more than a simple movement, a watch is an Emotion, a passion that goes straight to the heart. Jaquet Droz continues to produce timepieces for connoisseurs in search of perfection, remaining loyal both to the watch and to an emotive and aesthetic approach to Time.

The Jaquet Droz Collections

Jaquet Droz was a man of great vision and as we all know from this article his prowess travelled well beyond the borders of Switzerland he established manufacture in London, gained access to China. Opened the first established workshop in Geneva along with his first in his home town. Jaquet Droz, who owned three watch factories was an extensive traveller, but he loved Paris. All these places and cities still inspire today’s Jaquet Droz Collections as can be seen below;

Legend – Geneva

As a bridge between the Age of Enlightenment and the third millennium, the  collection evokes the union between Haute Horlogerie and poetry, contemporary aesthetics and timelessness. Directly inspired by a pocket watch created in the 18th century, this collection echoes the luxurious and refined pieces designed by Pierre Jaquet Droz in his third watchmaking Manufacture. In choosingGeneva, he became a pioneer: his workshop was the very first to be established in this city.

Urban London 

Entering the sports watch field, Jaquet Droz confirms its mastery of the aesthetic and technical concerns of the 21st century, based on the Manufacture’s values over the last three centuries: boldness, a sense of adventure and the love of a challenge. The city of London is a perfect interpretation of these values and pushed Jaquet Droz to offer his craftsmanship to the world, especially to Asia.

Inspired by the 8 and the infinity, the Grande Seconde SW line and the SW Chrono and the Grande Seconde Ceramic compete with the finest examples in watchmaking.

Majestic Beijing

During the 18th century, in the heart of Beijing, the emperor and the imperial court’s dignitaries collected Pierre Jaquet Droz’s masterpieces. Like these timepieces which crossed the world, the elegant creativity and the functionality conveyed by the  collection’s models seems to know no bounds: the Grande Heure, The Twelve Cities, The Eclipse…. so many possibilities for different modes of existence, lifestyles and desires.

Complication La Chaux De  Fonds

As the creator of watches, clocks and automatons that were universally recognized for their elegance and finesse, Pierre Jaquet Droz succeeded in making people forget about the phenomenal complexity of the mechanisms and movements required to actually run his masterpieces. It was in his first workshop that Pierre Jaquet Droz began to specialize in the production and export of timekeepers endowed with Grand Complications such as a piece of music, a songbird, or a mechanism striking en passant or automatically… The workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds excelled in all fields of mechanical ingenuity.

Elegance Paris

A cultural and intellectual bastion central to 18th century history, Parishas always held pride of place for our Manufacture. During the Enlightenment, its founder Jaquet Droz frequently visited Paris, where he presented his models to Marie-Antoinette, queen of France. Designated the capital of femininity, art and fashion, the city has been famous ever since for its jewellery watches, set with precious stones or pearls. Mysterious and enchanting, the  collection represents yet another milestone in our unrelenting quest to push back the limits of Beauty.

The whole Jaquet Droz Story can be seen in this 128 page, well illustrated book, which can be viewed online free at http://book.jaquetdroz.ch/Jaquet-Droz/181-JD-Catalogue-2012-2013-ENG.html#/0

Video: Audemars Piguet the Making of….

We found this little treasure online and thought that discerning watch enthusiast, watch reviews and bloggers would be interested.

Its an 8 minute video on the process of making an Audemars Piguet Watch, Interesting watching for all we think from the novice watch enthusiast to the more adapt timepiece aficionados out there.

We hope you enjoy it as much as we did….

Here it is Audemars Piguet The Making of…..

You may also like to see some other related videos and reviews on The Watch Review Site, some related articles are the video interview with Audemars Piguet Art Director Octavio Garcia about The Royal Oak Anniversary or the  The Story Behind the L’odyssee de Cartier a behind the scenes look at the phenomenon of L’odyssee de Cartier video and interview with Cartier Heritage Director.

Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

Written By: D Constant for The Watch Review Site

We look at the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar and we can clearly see that the growing love affair of women with mechanical watches and complicated functions is one of the great current trends in the world of horology. That must be the reason Patek Philippe saw fit to launch the 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar before any of its new Men’s novelties in 2012.

Could their decision also be based on the response to the Ladies First Chronograph launched by Patek Philippe in Autumn 2009, along with further ladies complications launched 2 years later in 2011, being an ultrathin split-seconds chronograph and a minute repeater. Now in 2012 with the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar, they hope to fasscinate every woman with a penchant for the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry and with the perpetual calendar, a grand complication that qualifies as an incarnation of eternity with its functionality, lasting value, reliability across generations, timelessly elegant design, and enduring array of diamonds. The workshops’ design team and the complications ateliers spared no effort to endow this complicated timepiece with an irresistibly feminine personality.

The Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual is beautiful and everlasting

This was Patek Philippe’s objective and it has been accomplished with panache and style. All of the elements of this elegant timepiece reflect feminine poise, from the classic round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold and the gracefully curved lugs to the shimmering creamy white dial, the interchangeable mink gray and royal purple alligator straps, the lovely bezel, and the clasp set with precious diamonds that deserve to be called a girl’s best friend.

The dimensions of the case are suited to a feminine wrist with its compact diameter of 35.10 mm and a height of 8.8 mm. Still even though it is neatly designed in a compact package the ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual still has eight indications, these being hours, minutes, date, day of the week, month, leap-year cycle, 24-hour subdial, and moon phases. All of these are well organised on the dial and are clear and easily read. This is achieved by the contrasting components to the White Opalescent Dial

The Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar has no less than 68 Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.68 ct. on the dial. The Ladies Perpetual Calendar comes with a solid-gold case back and an exchangeable sapphire-crystal display back that allows you to admire the magnificently intricately designed and artistically decorated mechanical caliber 240 Q. This is A Patek Philippe legendary caliber, which is assembled in the manufacture’s ateliers for it’s complicated watches.

Composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. This feat was made possible by recessing the off-center 22K gold minirotor in the plate, combined with an ingenious arrangement of the mechanisms for the perpetual calendar and the moonphase display. A key feature is the 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar’s mechanical memory of 4 years, which allows the perpetual calendar to always indicate the correct date, automatically taking into consideration the months with 31, 30, or 28 days, and the 29th of February in leap years. This means that as long as the 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar is worn regularly  and not let to run down the Ladies Perpetual calendar will take until 2100 before the calendar has to be manually adjusted and at that point it will only be by one day. So we have a watch if worn regularly that will most likely outlast you and see you to the grave (for want of a better term) or just think this is definately one for the family collection.

This timepiece has been designed for eternity and is has a hand-stitched alligator strap with a prong buckle in 18K rose gold which has a further 27 Top Wesselton diamonds totaling about 0.20 ct.

The Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar definately adds to, and enhances Patek Philippe’s collection of ladies’ watches and we look forward to the next installment in Patek philippes portfolio of complicated watches for women.

Technical details – Patek Philippe Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

Complicated ladies’ wristwatch with perpetual calendar in 18K rose gold

Movement: Caliber 240 Q, Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement.

Perpetual calendar with analog displays for the date, day of the week, month, and leap-year cycle. Moon phases.

Diameter: 27.50 mm

Height: 3.88 mm

Number of parts: 275, Number of jewels: 27

Power reserve: 48 hours

Winding rotor: Recessed 22K gold minirotor, unidirectional winding

Balance: Gyromax®

Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)

Balance spring: Spiromax®

Functions: Two-position crown – Pushed in: To wind the watch – Pulled out: To set the time

Displays: Center hour and minute hands

Subsidiary dials: – Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock – Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock – Date and moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors: At 9 o’clock: Day of week correction, Between 11 and 12 o’clock: date correction, Between 12 and 1 o’clock: month correction,

At 6 o’clock: moon-phase correction

Features

Case: Round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold (4N),

cambered sapphire crystal glass,

bezel with 68 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.68 ct.

Snap back in 18K rose gold and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back.

Water-resistant to 30 meters

Case dimensions: Diameter 35.10 mm, Height: 8.8 mm (overall), Height: 8.7 mm (back to glass), Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial: White opalescent, Six applied Breguet numerals in 18K rose gold, Thin leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold

Subsidiary dials: – Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand, – Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand, – Date and moon phases at 6 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand

Diamonds Bezel set with 68 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (totaling approx. 0.68 ct.)

Clasp set with 27 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (totaling approx. 0.20 ct.)

Strap: Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny mink gray, prong buckle in 18K rose gold, diamond-studded.

Additional handstitched alligator strap with square scales in royal purple.

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