The Watch Review Site » Martin Green Watch Reviews, News and Info Fri, 07 Nov 2014 01:36:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=4.0.7 A Diver that Doesn’t Dive Deep??? – Linde Werdelin Oktopus II /a-diver-that-doesnt-dive-deep-linde-werdelin-oktopus-ii/ /a-diver-that-doesnt-dive-deep-linde-werdelin-oktopus-ii/#comments Fri, 17 Aug 2012 09:02:17 +0000 /?p=4419 Post image for A Diver that Doesn’t Dive Deep??? – Linde Werdelin Oktopus II

Linde Werdelin’s new Oktopus II Diving Watch Doesn’t Go Deep! Morten Linde explains the logic

By Martin Green written for Longitude – Christies Wacth Blog

Morten Linde (left) and Jorn Werdelin, founders of Linde Werdelin

Linde Werdelin is not your average watch company and that is something that they cherish. They enjoy taking paths less travelled, and they are not the only ones who enjoy it! Because they are different than most watch companies, they come out with refreshing new watches that we also can enjoy! Pictured to the left are Morten Linde (left) and Jorn Werdelin, founders of Linde Werdelin.

Such is most certainly the case with the Oktopus II, Linde Werdelin’s new divers watch. Although we are already familiar with the looks of their diving watches through its predecessor, the Oktopus I, the Oktopus II pushes the envelope even further, in every way except water resistance! We had the opportunity to talk with Morten Linde, co-founder and designer of Linde Werdelin about the new Oktopus II;

Martin Green (MG): Dive watches are very popular, even amongst those who don’t dive. How important is it for Linde Werdelin to have a divers watch in its collection?

Morten Linde: A lot of customers have an active lifestyle and like the rugged look of a dive watch. Most of them also use the watch where it was made for; life under water. It is our philosophy that time should be read analog, but that when you use it for sport you need digital. Also when you go diving you need a diving computer. A watch is great, but you need a digital computer to give you all the information you need to dive safely.

MG: In what way is the Oktopus II different than the Oktopus I? Is it an evolution or a revolution?

Linde Werdelin Oktopus II: not just serious about diving but also professional!

Morten Linde; It is a combination of both; we have refined the watch by going into the details, and found a lot of inspiration in the development of The Reef (Linde Werdelin’s diving computer MG). All our watches have to fit in The Reef, they need to be anti-corrosive, have big hands, basically it needs to be suited to working/life in water.

When we design a new watch we work very closely with our suppliers (Linde Werdelin has a very transparent policy that they don’t aspire to make everything themselves, but prefer to make their watches with the best suppliers they can find MG). We need to talk with the people at the suppliers to see what is possible; it is a cooperative effort. It is all about understanding suppliers, working together to make great products and to determine how we can both set a step further.

MG: Most divers also wear a diving computer when they go diving. With the Oktopus this device can simply be attached to the watch. Did “The Reef” also get an update?

Morten Linde: The Reef is in constant development with refinement of software and instruments. Basically it is a constant evolution. For the new Oktopus II we have The Reef now available in blue and yellow to match the colors on the dial.

MG: There is a current trend that divers watches have an increasing water resistance. What technical features has the Oktopus II in regard to this?

Morten Linde: Water resistance should be practical. After 120 meters diving is not possible, all you get is a big watch. It is not a game/contest to get the highest water resistance. The first Oktopus was water resistance to 1100 meters, with the Oktopus II that is 300 meters; the same depth as The Reef is tested for. We are the only watch company that makes a real instrument for diving. Brands that make watches that are extremely water resistant indicate that they don’t know anything about diving. It is easier to make a watch water resistance to 5000 meters than to build a dive computer.

Oktopus II in Blue; the skeleton date wheels

MG: Most watch connoisseurs are quite passionate about the movement. What can you tell us about the movement in the Oktopus II?

Morten Linde: In regard to the movement it was extremely complicated to do the date-wheels. They are extremely thin. I wanted them to be skeletonized. It not only looks good, but it is also resembles the stencil look of the letters found on a lot of divers equipment. We actually had to develop a special process for it, because the regular laser cutting wasn’t possible due to heat. The date wheels would warp and couldn’t be used. With our supplier we had to overcome that problem.

The skeletonized design of the movement was also created so that it resembles an octopus with arms from 3 to 9 o’clock, and the big date look like its eyes.

MG: The Oktopus I was also released with a moonphase indicator. A quite unique feature for a divers watch. Can we also expect complications like this in the near future for the Oktopus II?

Morten Linde: We find it interesting to make complications that have a purpose. We did the moonphase on the first Oktopus because a lot of people like night diving, for this you need the moon, or moonlight. It always needs to add something, an extra functionality that is also relevant for a diver. Big date too, although as a diver you don’t need to have this function underwater. You do need the date to set your diving computer correctly. But about extra or different complications for the Oktopus II,let’s see what happens!

From wetsuit to tuxedo, the Oktopus II in titanium & rose gold can handle both with ease. (pictured to the right) 

MG: Is there anything about the Oktopus II that you think everybody should know?

Morten Linde: The case construction is very interesting. It is inspired by the development of The Reef. It consists of 4 separate units after which the bezel locks it in place. This has never been done before. Also the whole architecture of the watch is interesting. We worked hard on the 3D look of the watch, since it all needs to come together. When you dive you go up and down, so we also did this on the case and dial to create the same motion. At 9 and 6 o’clock the case go ups to add dimension. We want to create details, even details in details, and play with light and shadows so it is always interesting to look at the watch. An Octopus II will last at least for 100 years so it should be interesting to look at, and you will see more details over time.

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So what is left to say about a watch after such an insight into its design and development? Well, the Oktopus II will be released in three different versions: titanium and ceramic with blue accents, titanium, DLC-coated titanium and ceramic with yellow accents, and a rose gold, titanium and rose gold accents version. All of them are limited to only 88 pieces and house a modified Dubois Depraz Calbiber 14580.

Although they are the same model, smart use of the different materials and varied colors of the accents give each watch a face of its own. Usually a diving watch has a rotating bezel. Interestingly, Linde Werdelin said good-bye to this feature. They have the opinion that time spent under water can much better be counted on a diving computer, which is also easier to read then a watch bezel and therefore safer. All together gives the Oktopus II a whole new and fresh look on how a diving watch can be: serious, thought through, robust, yet always with an eye for detail!

More information about the Oktopus II can be found at Linde Werdelin’s website

Original interview and article can be found at http://blogs.christies.com/longitude/brands/linde-werdelins-new-oktopus-ii-diving-watch-doesnt-go-deep-morten-linde-explains-the-logic/ 

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Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono /guy-ellia-jumbo-chrono/ /guy-ellia-jumbo-chrono/#comments Sat, 19 May 2012 19:12:14 +0000 /?p=3209 Post image for Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono

Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono – Big Boys, Big Toy’s

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Written by Martin Green

Say “ Big Watch” and most people instantly think about Panerai or IWC’s Big Pilot. Perhaps with a few their thoughts will go to their favorite Breitling or Omega on steroids. This can hardly be helped since these are the brands that are very much in the public eye. When a name like “Guy Ellia” drops into a conversation most people don’t even know how to hide the fact that they have never heard of this brand, let alone seen one of its watches. But, believe me, they feel right at home in the “Big Boys, Big Toys” series.

Part of the Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono collection

Guy Ellia is a brand to know when you are into big watches, for the simple reason that they redefine the big watch! A great example of this is the  “Jumbo Chrono”. Don’t take the word Jumbo in its name lightly because even in the world of big watches, its diameter might be shocking. 50mm of prime real estate is what this watch offers your wrist. Unwearable will probably be your first reaction, but this Guy Ellia is not like any other big watch.

With most large watches, the big equals the bulky, but Guy Ellia follows a different path. The whole concept of the watch is focused on offering you as much watch as possible without compromising on the wearing comfort. This is done by keeping the watch relatively thin, with a height of only 11.5mm. This is about just as high as the regular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, and almost 3mm thinner then the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph!

In addition, the lugs of the Jumbo Chrono are kept relatively short and positioned at a sharp downward angle. On the wrist, this means that the watch is kept secure in place without needing additional space. The crown is also recessed into the case for the most part and the operating buttons for the chronograph are kept in line of the case.

The movement of the Jumbo Chrono is based on the Frederic Piguet caliber 1185. Major change is that the hour and minute hand have been moved to a subdial at 12 o’clock, with the running seconds at its own subdial at 6 o’clock. The minute counter resides at 4 o’clock, while the hour counter takes position at 8 o’clock. Only the chronograph seconds hand has center stage and is mounted in the middle of the dial.

Dial might be a bit too much credit, because the Jumbo Chrono features a so-called “Discovery” dial. This means that large portions of the dial have been cut away so you can admire the inner works of the watch. Since the movement itself is not skeletonized this gives it a highly industrialized look while the air of mystery is still preserved.

In a way, this watch is also equipped with something that you can call a “Discovery” rotor. A ring floating above the outer edges of the movement is joined in the middle by six spokes, giving it the look of an endlessly turning wheel, under which the familiar layout of the movement is visible from the back.

Ellia’s approach to gold is also very interesting; the Jumbo Chrono is available in black, white and pink gold. Each color gives the watch a completely different look, but all have a beautiful, satin-brushed texture that transforms this watch into 50mm of understatement. Yes, it is possible!

Since Guy Ellia started his career in the diamond trade, he includes two diamond set versions as part of the Jumbo Chrono collection. But for those who prefer their carbon served in a different way, Guy Ellia created a special “Carbone” version of the Jumbo Chrono. This slightly more military styled watch (crown guards and screws that stick slightly out of the bezel) has its case crafted out of a solid piece of forged carbon, creating a lightweight watch with a very interesting and subtle texture in the case, that gives you the idea of a ton-sur-ton camouflage look.

So with the Jumbo Chrono Guy Ellia created a versatile, and even wearable, watch that pushes the boundaries of the term “BIG”. Its diameter will impress many, although only its owner will know the fact that it is secretly a “gentle giant” that might bark, but never bite. A big watch this size was never so easy to get along with, but please keep this a secret…they might throw you out of the Big Boys club just because of it!

You may also be interested in another of our Big Boys, Big Toys articles by Martin Green here.

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/1_mens_watches/big-boys-big-toys-guy-ellia-jumbo-chrono.html

 

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Unique Rolex Day-Date /unique-rolex-day-date/ /unique-rolex-day-date/#comments Sat, 12 May 2012 08:54:24 +0000 /?p=3223

A matter of taste; a unique Rolex Day-Date

Written by Martin Green 

If you have ever read the amazing stories of the “One thousand and one nights”, you are probably also familiar with Ali Baba and how he found a hidden treasure cave. Well, when you lay eyes on this unique Rolex Day-Date you will most certainly get an idea how he must felt after he spoke the magical words; “iftah ya simsim” or “Open Sesame” in plain English.

Although until recently Rolex has always been pretty conservative when it came down their collections. Cases, bracelets and movements slowly evolved rather than changed. However, Rolex always been quite generous with different dial, bezel and bracelet options. Sometimes even special requests from distinguished collectors were granted, although these were almost exclusively gemstone set models.

Sometimes you didn’t even need to ask Rolex, they simply made some extraordinary gem set watches of their own. Such was the case with this exceptional Day-Date that Rolex created in very limited quantities in the early 1980’s. Exceptional in this matter is not only the abundance of rubies and diamonds, but also the extreme attention to detail that Rolex practiced while making this model. Take for example the golden day and date indications on the burgundy colored background that match the overall look of the watch. Or the Rolex crown and name applied in gold on the inside of the crystal so that the diamond pavé set dial doesn’t have to be interrupted?

But there is a problem with this Rolex. Not a huge problem, but still something that might have some people pass on this exceptional watch. The problem with this Rolex in the 21st century  is that it cannot decide whether it is a men’s or a ladies’ watch. It was definitely born as a men’s watch. Manufactured in 1982 it was simply out of the question, and most certainly out (or not yet in) style for women to wear such a large watch. But time and tastes have changed, causing this Rolex to have an identity crisis.

Whole generations of powerful men wore 35mm Rolex and there is a reason the Day-Date is also referred to as the “President”, being the favorite of a couple of US Presidents. Even the dial, pavé set with brilliant cut diamonds, cannot change the perspective that it is a men’s watch. Especially not since it is nicely counterbalanced by a beautiful bezel of baguette cut rubies. The main reason for the identity crisis has to be the bracelet. It is also the bracelet that gives this watch its nick-name “Octopussy”, because of its resemblance to this animal’s tentacles. The two large brilliant cut diamonds, set on either side of a bracelet link, give it a rather feminine look, and even the large baguette ruby on the centre link cannot change that.

But hold on a second! The larger a diamond gets, the more rare they become, taken that you get the same quality as Rolex did with this watch, and actually the same goes for rubies. Of course this doesn’t change the look of the bracelet, but it does indicate what a rare and precious road Rolex followed to make this piece possible.

So ladies, wear this watch as it is! Gentleman, get yourself a nice strap for this Day-Date and put the bracelet in the safe for those occasions when you want to show it all out! And when your friends might refer to the lack of masculinity of the bracelet, you can always tell them that the bigger the diamonds you wear, the more man you are! Christie’s auctions this exquisite Rolex as lot No. 139 on May 14th in Geneva.

Thanks to Martin Green for this article and insight into the Rolex Day-Date, also our lovely Meehna Goldsmith The Watch Match Maker will be attending the auction in Geneva so hopefully we get a little more feedback when she is back.

Original article can be found at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/2_womens_watches/a-matter-of-taste-a-unique-rolex-day-date.html

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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ref 81180 /vacheron-constantin-patrimony/ /vacheron-constantin-patrimony/#comments Wed, 09 May 2012 18:06:36 +0000 /?p=3228

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180 – Do we need more?

 

Written by Martin Green
Sometimes high end watch making seems like an endless challenge of making watches as complicated as possible. Especially in the last decade we’ve run out of complications to combine, since everything has already been tried. So we come up with different ways of showing the time or speeding up hands to such an extent that probably in a year of two you can hear a loud bang from under the crystal of your watch, created by a hand that went through the sound barrier as soon as you engaged its chronograph.

True classics die hard, but sometimes a dash of current times can do even a classic good!

Stuff of dreams but about as necessary as sugar coated cherry on top of your apple sauce, since most occasions in life are perfectly served by a simple, elegant watch with two hands. One hand is inconvenient but three or more hands only add stress. Many brands are still making such watches, often in color combinations that are as classical as a pair of Brogues with rib cord pants. Yellow gold and off white dials still reign supreme in this part of the watch world. But there are other options. One of them is the magnificent Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Ref 81180

40mm of contemporary delight! picture by Alex Ghotbi

The case of the 81180 is all in platinum, which still represents a minor part of the market. Although demand is increasing only 2.6 percent of all Swiss watches were made out of this metal in 2004 (source Johnson Matthey). A pity because not only is platinum very exclusive, this metal also has a warm, soft glow that sets it apart from the less regal white gold, not to mention the plebeian steel! By being a white metal you can dress it up or dress it down just as easily as you change your own wardrobe.

Vacheron Constantin MovementVacheron Constantin even helps you by equipping the Patrimony 81180 with a grey dial. A regal companion when you wear your pinstripe, while almost sporty looking when you jump into your 501’s! It also gives the watch a sense of unity yet without being boring or old fashioned. That is of course also why Vacheron Constantin added “Contemporaine” to this watch name, though  probably in reference to to its size! No 34, 36 or even 38mm diameter but a healthy 40mm! That gives wrist presence but also offers Vacheron Constantin with a slight dilemma.

The brand is one of the royals when it comes to the production of ultra slim movements, and the Vacheron Constantin 81180 has one in it, the manual wind caliber 1400 to be precise. A dream of a caliber that is about half the diameter of the whole watch: 20.65mm!  Although sapphire case backs are all the rage, Vacheron Constantin fortunately thought that a closed case back was a better option than to fill up the extra space with a huge (platinum) spacer. Some might call it a waste of the finely finished, Geneva Seal recipient caliber, with its chamfered edges and highly polished jewel counter sinks. Actually a closed case back also has its charm. It suits the watch’s straight forward design, and honestly, wouldn’t you rather have platinum resting on your wrist than a piece of sapphire crystal?

Vacheron Constantin finishes the watch with a nice Mississippi (yes, no Louisiana this time!) alligator strap, with its signature Maltese Cross transformed into a buckle. This still is one of the coolest pin buckles available, period, and actually almost a reason by itself to treat yourself to a Vacheron Constantin. Overall the Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180 is a watch for almost anytime, anywhere, always appropriate, never too much or too little. Perfection in its most simple form, which almost, yes almost, gives you the desire for little more.

You may like the following articles on The Watch Review Site – Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph or the GP 1966 Full Calendar

Original article content can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/brands/vacheron_constantin/vacheron-constantin-patrimony-contemporaine-reference-81180-do-we-need-more.html

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Jorg Hysek Colosso Watch Review /jorg-hysek-colosso-watch-review/ /jorg-hysek-colosso-watch-review/#comments Fri, 20 Apr 2012 13:30:40 +0000 /?p=2959

Jorg Hysek Colosso – Big Boys, Big Toys

By Martin Green

Jorg Hysek Colosso Watch Review – Big is Beautiful??????

“Space…the final frontier. These are the voyages of the starship Colosso. With it’s continuing mission to explore strange, new life and civilizations, to boldly go where no watch has gone before! These are of course the slightly altered words which formed the intro of the “Star Trek; The Next Generation” TV-show. But it is so easy to hear the powerful, Shakespearian voice of actor Patrick Stewart give a similar introduction to the Hysek Colosso, another contender in the watch match makers Big Boys, Big Toys series.

This wristwatch should have been standard issue for all Starfleet captains, but also more primitive earthlings like ourselves can feel like a master of the universe with one of these around the wrist. But in order to do so you first need to find one since it was limited to only 10 pieces, and then you need a check up at your doctor to see if your wrist and arm are strong enough to even wear this massive watch. It’s dimensions are 40mm wide, 60mm long and 16mm high. Worried about wearing comfort? The moveable lugs make sure that it will adjust to you, but the watch will still quite literaly sit on top of your wrist, and unless you like to wear your sleeves like Johnny Depp in Pirates of the Caribbean, there is no way of hiding this watch!

Usually when manufacturers make a watch like this, they add so many complications that often they themselves don’t know how the movement is actually going together. Not that the Colosso is not complicated, on the contrary, but the complications seem to have been carefully selected to create a well rounded package that seems to be best situated for a traveler. The eye catcher for this is, of course, the little globe at the top of the watch protected by a sapphire “ozone-layer” and showing all the time zones.

Apart from that you have the option of showing two other time zones in a more prominent way. The first one on the main dial, adorned with a big date at 12 o’clock. The other one can be selected, at the slope, of the 6 o’clock side of the watch. Here two vertical retrograde indicators flank a window that shows the name of the corresponding time zone. The left retrograde indicator shows the hours from midnight to noon, the one on the right from noon to midnight. Too see which one you should read, two arrows are positioned underneath the city name window. The arrow that is red points at the right retrograde indicator. Changing these time zones is done as quickly as pressing a button, where you can go back and forth through all the cities and their corresponding times.

With all this visual splendor one would almost forget that the watch also comes with a minute repeater. Great for when you are taking a nap while flying and don’t want to take off your sleep mask to check the time. To make sure you can actually hear it over the constant noise of the engines, Hysek created sapphire chambers inside the watch for a very distinct sound. A transporter button (nor Scotty) are unfortunately amongst these complications so it is going to be the good , old Learjet after all.

Sometimes it is also funny to see how low-tech high-tech can be! Instead of adding a power reserve meter for the two barrels that serve as the power plant for this watch, Hysek simply made a cut out in the dial where the springs are located, mounted a small magnifying cyclops on top of them and you can see for yourself how tight the springs are wound. That is what they call simply brilliant!

So it this the ultimate travelers watch? Yes, and not only when you board space ships but also when you fly intercontinental to more earthly destinations. But with the price of kerosene at the height, don’t be surprised when the airlines designate your Colosso as an extra carry on and charge you dearly for it! And because of that this Hysek Colosso will not only earn you guaranteed membership in the Big Boys club, but will immediately make you president…….ahm…captain!

Other articles and reviews you may be interested in our superhero series – Watches that superheros would wear and watch reviews of these or the Christopher Ward C700 Watch review – not a colossal watch but a lovely timepiece

 

Technical Details – Hysek Colosso – Earth

Movement - hours, quarters and minutes repeater.

Big date at 12H, 3 dimensions globe with a diameter of 12mm at 12H.

Indication of the cities of the 24 time zones linked to the GMT with a magnifying glass.

Retrograde time zones with a linear double display situated at the lower end displayed in curvex position with indicative arrows that indicate which side to observe (24 to 12 hours / 12 to 24 hours).

48 hours power reserve.

Frequency: 18’000 A/H.

Cathedral timbre.

62 Jewels.

Dimension of the movement: 53 x 33mm, Thickness with hands: 11.40 mm (globe not taken into consideration).

Case – 18k white or rose gold. Coloured sapphire dial, with rhodium plated numerals.

Glass sapphire.

Case Size: 60 x 40 x 20 mm.

Water Resistant.

Strap - hand made quality leather

Buckle exclusively designed for Colosso in the continuity of the case

 

Original article content can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/brands/girard-perregaux/unique-girard-perregaux-sea-hawk-1000-at-christies-green-auction-2.html

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Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 1000 /girard-perregaux-sea-hawk-1000/ /girard-perregaux-sea-hawk-1000/#comments Sun, 01 Apr 2012 13:43:32 +0000 /?p=2517

Unique Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 1000 at Christie’s Green Auction

By Martin Green

Green, Green Grass of Home”, wither you hear the Tom Jones or Jerry Lee Lewis version on the radio, very few will actually realize that the song is about a man on death row who will only get back to the green, green grass of home to be buried underneath it. Not a very uplifting topic in the 1960’s, and most certainly not in the 2010’s. With the way we are exhausting and polluting the world around us, we basically put ourselves on death row, but with one major difference! When the sentence will come down on us, there will be no green, green grass to bury us under.

Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 1000

Fortunately a wide variety of people and organizations realize this fact, and take action against it. In 2010 Christie’s started the Green Auction, an annual event from which all proceeds go to four non-profit organizations that try to preserve the nature we have. These organizations are: Oceana, Conservation International (CI), Central Park Conservancy (CPC), and Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), and the proceeds will especially go to water-preservation projects.

It is therefore even more appropriate that Girard-Perregaux donates a unique Sea Hawk for the online auction that is being held between March 29th through April 19th on charitybuzz. It is the third time that Girard-Perregaux is joining the auction with a Piece Unique.

Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 1000 Christies AuctionGirard-Perregaux went for a color they very rarely use for their dials; green! Just changing the color of the dial doesn’t sound so exciting, but the result most certainly is! It really sets off the watch and with the two subdials for the small seconds and power reserve it only takes a little bit of imagination to see yourself looking at pool table from above…with the date perhaps as a small piece of chalk to put on your pool cue?

Apart from the almost mandatory text on the dial indicating that this is indeed a one of a kind watch for the Green Auction, and of course the green dial, Girard-Perregaux not change a thing! That is very good, because the Sea hawk is quite a watch. 44mm in diameter, with an impressive water resistance of 1,000 meters. It is powered by Girard-Perregaux’s manufacture movement GP033R0. So this entire package will most certainly make an excellent choice for anybody traveling the world trying to preserve it, or for somebody who simply wants to help out and get an amazing one of kind watch in the process. Do not miss this Girard-Perregaux, and while you are at it, check out some of the other items they are also auctioning off.

Other Girard Perregaux articles and reviews you may be interested in /batman-would-choose-the-girard-perregaux-ww-tc-shadow-new-york/ or /girard-perregaux-1966-full-calendar/

 

Original article content can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/brands/girard-perregaux/unique-girard-perregaux-sea-hawk-1000-at-christies-green-auction-2.html

 

 

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Batman Would Choose the Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Shadow New York /batman-would-choose-the-girard-perregaux-ww-tc-shadow-new-york/ /batman-would-choose-the-girard-perregaux-ww-tc-shadow-new-york/#comments Sat, 24 Mar 2012 20:41:02 +0000 /?p=2432

Batman Would Choose the Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Shadow New York

Written by: Meehna Goldsmith 

Following on from Meehna’s report on a villain’s watch /girard-perregaux-1966-full-calendar/ she continues the theme here.

Martin thinks it’s fun to wear the watch of a fictional character, and I agree. He chose the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar as his favorite of the brand’s models for the villain Red Grant, the red headed assassin from SMERSH in From Russia with Love.

In most cases it’s downright despicably good entertainment to  love the villain, but I counter with a hero who wins the girl, saves the world—and still has a juicy dark side. Who could this hero be but none other than Batman, the Dark Knight of Gotham City. In civilian life, he’s Bruce Wayne, billionaire, philanthropist and playboy.

The perfect Girard-Perregaux watch for Batman is the ww.tc Shadow New York. A man of mystery and stealth, Batman needs a watch to camouflage him while he’s in pursuit of the bad guys. An inadvertent flash of steel or gold could put Batman in peril, giving away his position. The ww.tc Shadow New York comes in a 43mm black ceramic case that will blend in seamlessly with the bat suit.

Batman often gets into skirmishes with dastardly villains and the ceramic case, which is not only light but also harder than steel, won’t weigh his arm down. A late Kapow! and that could be the end of Batman. Ceramic is also a highly scratch resistant so even after a scuffle the ww.tc Shadow New York will come out of it with nary a scratch.

Batman may be a superhero but he doesn’t always get the upper hand because that wouldn’t make for an entertaining story. In the land of Gotham, the villains have special powers and Batman sometimes finds himself in their clutches. Even if injected with truth serum or bound up, Batman doesn’t have to worry about an allergic reaction, at least from his watch, because ceramic happens to be hypoallergenic.

In all black, Batman’s bat suit never goes out of style. It’s made of rubber and fits Batman like a glove. What better wrist wear than a black watch to complete the outfit? A perfect sartorial touch is that the black rubber strap matches the texture of the bat suit. Because Batman is nothing if not a man of style. And, when Bruce Wayne steps out for one of his Black Tie functions, he won’t have to scramble around to find an appropriate watch. While the ww.tc Shadow isn’t a traditional dress watch, it will do the job in a pinch and won’t cramp his style.

There’s no denying Batman appreciates gadgets. Just look at his tricked out car. The ww.tc shadow, constructed with an internal titanium container and held together with special screws similar to those used to structurally support racing car engines, will certainly appeal to his sensibilities. It’s good to know your watch has the latest technology available when you’re trying to outsmart a nemesis.

Though Bruce Wayne inherited his fortune, he is also an astute businessman with assets around the globe. It can be a bit tricky to calculate the times of financial markets around the world. With the ww.tc Shadow, a glance reveals the time in any one of 24 cities as well as the date. As a tribute to the Big Apple, the city New York on the timer ring is highlighted in red.

More than simply a true world time watch, the ww.tc Shadow, featuring the in-house caliber GP3387 self-winding movement, is also a tool watch with a flyback chronograph built in. Handy for timing those inevitable countdowns to when disaster will strike. A miscalculation could set Batman off by seconds and the world could come to an end. Rubber coated crown and chrono pushers provide a non-slip surface, a protective measure so fingers won’t slip.

Bruce Wayne is a New York man and Batman protects Gotham city so what better Girard-Perregaux watch than the ww.tc Shadow New York to grace his wrist.

 

Other Girard Perregaux articles on The Watch Review Site you may like

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/watchmaker-dominique-loiseau-joins-girard-perregaux-why-this-is-important/

 

Article content provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/brands/girard-perregaux/batman-would-choose-the-girard-perregaux-ww-tc-shadow-new-york.html#more-7121

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BaselWorld 2012: The Unforgetables /baselworld-2012-the-unforgetables/ /baselworld-2012-the-unforgetables/#comments Sun, 18 Mar 2012 21:57:54 +0000 /?p=2255

Basel: The Ones We Shouldn’t Forget

Written by: Martin Green
12th March 2012

It happens almost at every edition of Baselworld, the big brands and old maison’s dominate the press with their newest and boldest watches. But quite often just out of the limelight of these watches, these big brands also have other watches that are very interesting. And let’s not try to forget the smaller brands that sometimes truly can surprise you, when you take a closer look at their introductions.

So let’s take a moment to drag some of these watches on to center stage;

Mondaine Vintage You know those marvelous Swiss railway clocks? Well, Mondaine has been making versions for around the wrist for years and now they introduce a limited edition of 400 pieces called “Vintage”. This watch has the familiar lay-out, but the thicker hour markers give the watch so much more depth. This is even magnified by the sapphire glass with AR-coating. The case is a very contemporary 41mm in diameter and, as cherry on top, houses a manual wind movement from ETA, caliber 2801-2 to be exact. Mondaine goes even completely crazy and even puts a second(!) cherry on top of this watch by its price….only 700 Swiss francs and this magnificent watch is yours! (Thats about £520.00 going by current local exchange rates)

 

Epos Flying Tourbillon Tourbillon’s are still hot and now even the charming brand of Epos is introducing one. An oversized yet elegant 18K rose gold case of 44mm houses a manual wind movement supplied by STT, with flying tourbillon and a small pointer date. But what makes this watch truly special is be back of the movement. Epos has not only engraved the bridges with a floral theme, but the leaves and flowers are also set with diamonds! A sparkling surprise and beautiful contrast with the blued screws. Epos offers this watch in a limited edition of only 10!

 

Glycine Combat Golden Eye Glycine is of course best known for their Airman-watches, but also the Combat-range offers interesting watches that are worth checking out when you are in the market for a sports watch. With the introduction of the Combat Golden Eye they only made things even more interesting. Not only do they get credit for selecting the perfect name for this watch, but also because every detail is what it should be! A 42mm pvd coated case and black dial proof to be the perfect canvas for the red gold plated crown, bezel and hands! How many watch manufacturers would still put a white date ring in a watch like this? Too many, but fortunately not Glycine, who went for a beautiful black one. Also the ETA 2824-2 that powers this watch will give no complains, and kind of suits a watch that was made for an active lifestyle.

 

Longines Column-wheel Monopusher Chronograph The Swatch Group is making serious work of upgrading Longines, and positions it as a more high end brand. This was basically only a matter of providing them with the right movements, because Longines has a very rich history which can provide plenty of inspiration for new models. That is exactly what they did for this Column-wheel Monopusher which was mainly based on a watch Longines had made in 1913 and served as its very first wrist chronograph. Despite its very unsexy name, is the watch itself an absolute beauty! 40mm in diameter in a rose gold case, with classical Arabic numerals and bold, blued hands make it a very attractive watch. Modern comforts like an AR coated sapphire crystal and a date function also make it a watch that can easily serve you on everyday affairs. Because of its 180th anniversary will this watch be made in a limited edition of….surprise…180 pieces!

 

Zeitwinkel 273 degrees Clean and straightforward is most certainly a philosophy that seems to suit the small brand of Zeitwinkel. But this “less is more” principal is not something that they apply on their movements. Here no ETA’s with modules to keep things going, but a solid, bonafide in-house automatic movement made in the Swiss Jura. The mainplate and bridges of the movement are made out of German Silver and the rotor seems to float above the movement. The 273 degrees is their most complicated movement and has a big date at 11 o’clock, an indicator for the 72 hours of power reserve between 1 and 2 o’clock and sub-seconds at the very classical position of 6 o’clock. Zeitwinkel refers to their watches as for people who don’t have to rely on their watch to provide them with extra status and therefore have truly arrived. Granted, very few people will recognize this watch as something truly special but with craftsmanship of this high level (hand-chamfered finish!) it is very hard to believe that it will not make you feel slightly elevated yourself.

 

Article can also be found at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/1_mens_watches/basel-the-ones-we-shouldnt-forget.html

 

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BaselWorld 2012 – It’s a Wrap….. /baselworld-2012-its-a-wrap/ /baselworld-2012-its-a-wrap/#comments Sun, 18 Mar 2012 21:30:11 +0000 /?p=2245

Written by: Martin Green

15th March 2012

Basel 2012 is a wrap! The new models have been introduced and very soon it is time to see how they are going to perform at the box-office. Sometimes it is very difficult to figure out what will be hot and what will be….not, but of course we do already have our preferences based on personal taste.

The Omega Z-33

Omega starts off very daring with the new Z-33. If you thought the X-33 was extreme when it was introduced then the Z-33 will rock your world even more. For this watch Omega revived one of their case designs from the 1970’s, gave it way too many buttons and added two windows to the dial to display the digital readout in retro red. It gives the watch a space age kind of look, but does give you the idea that unless you fly the Thunderbird 1 for a living this watch is kind of out of place.

Video of Citizen EcoDrive Satellite Wave

Perhaps Omega should have taken the approach of Citizen. They showed the Citizen EcoDrive Satellite Wave at Basel and that is a very good and high end looking watch. Don’t worry, Citizen might have made the watch more upscale, but it is still a unique piece of technology since this is the first watch that actually doesn’t sync its time though radio waves, but with a direct link to a GPS satellite. This means that even in the middle of the Russian Tundra or the Sahara you can get the correct time down to the precise second!  It’s price is also a very adult around £2,600.

 

The Omega Speedmaster 1962

To get back to Omega, they fortunately make up the Z-33 with the introduction of the Omega Speedmaster 1962. Another lovely variation of the so beloved chronograph and maybe the best looking Speedmaster yet. This one pays tribute, and looks of course a lot like the second generation Speedmaster. That one was introduced before we landed on the moon, so it is not exactly a moonwatch, but  it was worn in during a space flight and is nevertheless a watch with a lot of character.

It is now officially more difficult to keep all these moonwatches apart than the different Rolex Submariners.

 

Official Rolex Sky Dweller Video

But talking about Rolex! What a surprise they had in store this time! The new Rolex Sky-Dweller forms a unique combination of complications and user friendliness, in a packaging that for Rolex is a revolution instead of an evolution. It might take some getting used to for some, but in the end I think Rolex will have a true winner on its hand with this one. The only thing they got a bit wrong is the name. Sky-Dweller sounds a bit odd….Sky-Walker would have been much better!

 

Tudor Neoprone automatic adjustment bracelet Video

Sister brand Tudor was also on a role, and hit two solid homeruns. First is the Pelagos, a divers watch made out of titanium with a nice 3D dial design, typical Tudor hands and a very innovative clasp. Not only does it have an easy to use fine-adjustment, but it also compensates for the effects water pressure has on the body and diving suit by tightening up automatically thanks to springs inside the clasp, so that the watch is always safely around the wrist.

 

Tudor Heritage Black Bay

If you prefer a more old school model, then the Tudor Heritage Black Bay has it all. Domed sapphire crystal, gilt dial, burgundy diving bezel. How delightful can retro be? Especially with a name that immediate takes you back to the time of pirates and buccaneers, and makes you want to enlist on a big sail ship…or take a cruise!

 

Harry Winston Opus 12

High expectations were there for the new Harry Winston Opus 12. The unique collection of watches has a certain status to uphold at being a frontrunner when it comes to innovative watch making. Granted it was very hard to beat Opus 11, yet Opus 12 doesn’t seem to live up to the high expectations. Of course it is a technically very advanced and complicated watch, but also quite an impractical one. The system reminds me a bit of  the Frederic Jouvenot Helios, but instead of turning cones and the minutes in the center the Harry Winston Opus 12 actually has hour and minute hands that turn but are only accurate within 5 minutes. Do you want to know the exact time then you can check how far it is to the next 5 minutes by a little retrograde indicator in the center of the dial. Great technology that makes it possible but just like the Hermes Arceau Temps Suspendu, and Chanel J12 Tourbillon Retrograde Mysterieuse it’s more inpractical than truly adding something to the mix.

 

 Hublot $5 million dollar watch

Who is also adding something to the mix is Hublot. A new Baselworld means a new Hublot million dollar watch, which is now worth 5 million dollars. How did they do it? The only way possible: larger diamonds. Of course there is room for improvement, and larger diamonds, so Basel 2013 will probably be the place where the brand will introduce the long expected……6 million dollar Hublot!!

 

Breitling Transocean Unitime Chronograph

Breitling didn’t seem to know that the large watch trend is slowing down a bit. They introduced a beautifully styled Transocean Unitime chronograph. The version with a cream white dials is especially stunning and could be the perfect travel watch. Could be because with a diameter of 46mm  it isn’t  and you almost have to call ahead to your hotel to check if the night stand is large enough to put this watch on when you are going to sleep. Less is more Breitling!

 

Official Antoine Martin Video

The return of Martin Braun with the brand  Antoine Martin, is, of course, very pleasant news. It reminds us a lot of the path Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth have traveled when they left the companies that bore their names. Braun also seems to be back with a vengeance, judging by the Quantieme Perpetuel au Grand Balancier that is the first watch to be launched by his new brand. The styling of the watch has some hints of Ateliers deMonaco’s design language but is mainly a bold mix of sportiness and classical design elements.

Amazing is the complexity of the case and dial as well as the movement. With a balance wheel of 17.5mm in diameter, this watch houses the largest balance wheel ever used in a wristwatch, but that is not all this watch has to offer. The layout of the perpetual calendar is beautiful, with a big date at 6 o’clock and a vertical display of day and month. A leap year indicator is also included with a day/night indicator as a bonus on the dial side.

A power reserve meter is “hidden” on the back of the watch, which has runs from 6 to 0 days! Only one remark for this young brand: If the classical time of 10:10 to display a watch in pictures and videos doesn’t work for you, because it blocks both the day and the month windows of the watch, please break free from tradition and opt for a different time, since this watch deserves to have all its features seen!

 

Original Review can be seen on http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/2_womens_watches/basel-2012-the-ups-and-downs.html#more-7482

 

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