Once a little known and niche brand, Panerai has come a long way since Richemont acquired them in 1997.Their watches can be found on the wrists of everyone from Heidi Klum and Bill Clinton to your neighbor next door. It’s actually Sylvester Stallone who can be credited with bringing Panerai to the public’s attention. He discovered a Luminor on a jeweler’s shelf while he was in Rome shooting “Daylight” and wore it in the movie.

Panerai originally made instruments for the Italian Navy; they weren’t really true watchmakers. A specialist in water-resistant cases, they sourced movements from manufacturers such as Rolex and Angelus. After Richemont came into the picture, they stayed true to the aesthetic roots of the brand but began a repositioning to a higher market segment that included complicated movements and in-house manufacture. Just last year they presented a tribute to Galileo with three pieces culminating with their most complicated piece to date, the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time Tourbillon Titanio – 50mm L’Astronomo (PAM00365). After mastering the deep with dive watches, Panerai is now reaching for the stars.

Typically, Panerais are bulkier watches because cases need to be watertight. Perhaps to catch the thinner watch trend as seen in Piaget’s lineup and their record-setting Empereador, in 2010 Panerai debuted the P.999 series of movements in the PAM0037, the first Radiomir to get an in-house movement. (The PAM0036 and PAM0038, also powered by the P.999 movement, are the same as the PAM0037 only with different cases and dial treatments.) The P.999/1 ticking inside is really the star here, showing the brand’s technical versatility. It is not only the smallest manufacture calibre but also the slimmest with a 27.4mm diameter and 3mm profile.

Turning over the watch reveals the view of the P.999/1 through the sapphire caseback. For an entry-level watch, a lot of thought and design went into this hand-wind movement with a hearty 60-hour power reserve. It’s a good thing there’s no rotor because it would be a shame to hide this landscape of swoops and curves. It’s a treat for the eye to wander around the bridges, all the pieces falling into place like a puzzle. Winding the watch with the grooved crown embossed with Panerai’s logo gives equal pleasure.

Of course, the chassis has to live up to the P.999/1 movement. Cased in stainless steel, the 42mm PAM0037 comes in the characteristic steel-cushioned shape that really is blessed with sensuous body, especially when viewed from the side. Unlike thicker Panerai models, this one can hide under a shirtsleeve and slip out easily when you need a quick time check. Though the 42mm size is smaller than the average 44-46mm of the new modern standard, the PAM0037 still has presence on the wrist due to the thin polished bezel. For men used to the larger and heavier Panerais, this switch might seem a little too out of character. However, it’s a perfect fit for women who dig the Panerai styling but find the usual offerings too heavy and overpowering on the wrist.

True to its lineage, the PAM0037 has a black sandwich dial with black luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, and running seconds at 9 o’clock. The dial holds a nice symmetry; the running seconds at 9 o’clock balance well against the 12, 3 and 6 Arabic numerals. Completing the composition, the font and size of the model name fit just right. While the PAM0037 looks great in by day, it also is quite handsome at night. The lume on this piece lights up like a rock concert stage, bright and legible and focused on the action. It doesn’t need much charge to bring out its bright face either.

The PAM0037 probably isn’t going to see many watery expeditions, but it still holds its own with a respectable rating to 100M, sufficient for a dip in the pool and snorkeling in Pigeon Cay, Honduras. I’d suggest a change from the crocodile strap in these scenarios, but fortunately the PAM0037 comes with removable wire loop strap attachments.

With their new complications and transfer over to in-house movements, Panerai is expanding their reach from the devotees to a new audience of watch aficionados that appreciate design along with manufacturing competence.

The lowest price point for a Radiomir in the current collection is the PAM380, which retails at $4,600, but this model has an ETA movement. The PAM0037, retailing for $7,700, is outfitted with an in-house movement, but you pay a premium for the privilege.

See Panerai’s catalogue for more details on the P.999 movement series.

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original Article can be viewed at http://blogs.christies.com/longitude/function-movement/manual-winding/pam00337-radiomir-panerais-first-in-house-movement-that-has-a-sexy-slimmer-profile/

Richard Mille found a loophole in the strict regulations, placing a prototype tourbillon on Blake’s wrist. He was the only one to wear a watch during the 100m finals, where he came in second to countryman Usain Bolt to win the Silver medal. While Blake positioned himself in the starting blocks, the half million-dollar watch was strategically on his right wrist, in prime position for a beautiful Hollywood close-up.

Apparently, the Olympic committee is furious for being duped by team Richard Mille. The fact that OMEGA sponsors the games as the official timer and pays a small fortune for the privilege adds an extra sting to the situation. We’ll keep you updated on how it all turns out.

via Yahoo! Sports

For other Richard Mille Sports related watches why not look at the RM038 and RM055 Bubba Watson Watch or the Richard Mille RM056 the watch that shouldn’t be worn???

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original Article can be viewed at http://blogs.christies.com/longitude/brands/omega/richard-mille-could-be-fined-for-yohan-blake-publicity-stunt-at-the-olympics-games/

Creating mystery around the watch, Richard Mille encouraged people to guess the “secret” of who would wear their tourbillon watch in the 100M men’s final dash. We knew it was silver medalist Yohan Blake right after the announcement.

The big “secret” of who was going to wear the watch, never was one, because it was never intended to be. There were clues laid out like candy on a children’s Easter egg hunt. Richard Mille released the “secret” watch July 30th, just six days before Blake raced in the final, stating in the press release that it was to welcome a “sprinter” into the family. The watch wears a white, green and yellow color scheme, the colors of the Jamaican flag. Since Usain Bolt – reigning Olympic champion and Blake’s training partner — is already locked up in a Hublot sponsorship, the most likely candidate was Blake. The “secret” did the job, spreading like wildfire on the Internet by getting bloggers and journalists excited to find the answer Richard Mille had already placed right in front of their noses.

Remember, no athletes can officially endorse a brand during the Olympics, and Richard Mille must wait until 3 days after the close of the Olympics to officially announce the Blake sponsorship. But they got around that rule and timed it perfectly. Blake was set to vie for victory in the 100M finals wearing the watch in front of a national and international audience, during prime time this past Sunday evening.

How did Richard Mille do it? Since the direct route was blocked, they had to figure out a way to get around the sticky wicket of the no advertising rule or get busted. Using “Coattail” ambushing, a type of ambush marketing, they took advantage of the legitimate connection between themselves and Blake and Blake’s spotlight position in front of the cameras in London, and it didn’t cost them a wooden nickel. I’m not talking about Blake’s sponsorship of the watch here but the exposure or marketing of the watch via the Olympics.

Mille couldn’t have asked for better prime product placement if they had purchased it. As Blake took his position in the starting blocks, the Richard Mille watch was front and center. Seconds before the starting gun, an NBC announcer described how Blake positions his feet in the blocks. As the camera focused on Blake’s right foot, the eyes of watch enthusiasts around the world were on Blake’s right wrist, inches away. Although the watch isn’t a new caliber and looks to be the RM, Richard Mille is sure to create one for the speedy Jamaican that is tailored to running really fast. Interested to see how they justify that one.

Yohan Blake ran a great race, finishing second to Usain Bolt. Blake may not have been the fastest human at these Olympics, but he did make the Richard Mille the fastest watch that evening.

All I can say is: Bravo, Richard Mille, Bravo!#

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original Article can be viewed at http://blogs.christies.com/longitude/watches/the-fastest-watch-at-the-london-olympics-that-would-be-richard-mille/

Yeah, this year a Rolex for the first time hit the big million mark at auction. Shows you how passionate and determined Rollie collectors are. Pictured: A Million Dollar Rolex Ref. 4113

Tracing its origins back to 1905, Rolex has a rich history and they’ve produced a lot of watches with enough variations to make your head spin. You might be able to name off models such as the Explorer, GMT, Submariner, Day-Date, and Deep Sea. That’s pretty manageable. But try to differentiate the versions within the models and you’re talking itsy bitsy details that can swing a watch into a whole other credit card color. You’ve got to know what you’re looking for.

Eric Ku, owner of 10 Past Ten and also a contributor to Longitude, is one of the guys who knows what he’s looking for. He’s a well-respected expert in the wilds of Rolex collecting and he’s seen them all. Remember the rare Milgauss he showed us, one of only two thought to exist?

While he was in town, he was nice enough to sit down for an interview and give his thoughts on subjects such as the new Sky-Dweller, how to begin collecting and which 5 models should be in any Rolex collection. See the video interview undertaken by Meehna below.

Article and video provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original Article can be viewed at http://blogs.christies.com/longitude/brands/rolex/how-to-collect-rolex-with-eric-ku/

With few exceptions, dive watches are designed to appeal to the male sensibility with their robust and rugged looks. It’s not like guys are the only ones who like to explore the depths below. We ladies need a cool watch that not only makes sure we surface before our rosy complexion turns blue but also that complements our wetsuit. No matter the environment we care about our outfits and there’s no denyingaccessories make the woman, by land or sea.

In the 1960’s JeanRichard entered into the dive watch arena. Named the Aquascope, the watch established the defining characteristics of the model with its round rotating bezel superimposed upon a tonneau case. The current model takes its design cues from the original but softens the lines and adds a crown at 9 o’clock to set the bidirectional bezel. The Aquascope watch has all the credentials of a diver in a resilient and rust resistant stainless case and a depth rating to 300 meters. The icing on the cake is that both the JR 1000 movement and the case are crafted in house at the JeanRichard factory.

Aquascope_60′

No doubt you’ll say that the Aquascope Lady “Night” is a man’s watch dressed up in drag and it’s true that the dimensions of the case stay the same for both the male and female models. But take a second look. The details are distinctly feminine. The black dial gives off a discreet glimmer with 8 diamond indexes, contrasting nicely to the black aluminum bezel with alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces.

Since a woman appreciates the value of matching details, the red color on both the seconds hand and date provide nice accents, the combination of white, black and red a fashion classic.

For a sporting look with the proper dash of womanly style, the Aquascope Lady Night offers function as well as an attractive wrist ornament. The watch comes on a black fabric strap with a satin-like appearance. There is also the option of a mother of pearl dial and a white fabric strap.

Retail Price: $7,500

(JR released another winner this year at SIHH with the Bressel 1665, which you can read about here.)

JeanRichard Aquascope Lady Night automatic diving watch specifications

Movement: Automatic, caliber JR1000, in-house, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, 25.94 mm in diameter, Swiss Made
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Aluminum
Case shape: Cushion
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 44.50 mm x 40.00 mm
Lug width: N/A
Case height: 11.85 mm
Dial: Black, satin-finished sunburst effect
Numerals: Arabic
Hands: Rhodium-plated steel
Water resistance: 300 meters
Strap: Black fabric strap with stainless steel folding buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective
Case back: Solid

Original Article can be found at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/2_womens_watches/jean-richard%E2%80%99s-aquascope-lady-%E2%80%9Cnight%E2%80%9D-feminine-twist-dive-watch.html

You may also want to check out the JeanRichard Big Life Charity Watch or just some of our other Ladies Watch Reviews.

Perhaps one of the greatest thinkers of the 18th century was Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a native of Geneva. He fought for Democracy and freedom as well as personal responsibility and education. His politics and writings impacted the French Revolution and set the path for modern political thought. Ironically, he spent his life with an illiterate servant and supposedly fathered five children with her but didn’t take responsibility for any of them. Despite his personal failings, Rousseau inspired many and stands as one of the greatest influencers of the 18th century.

On the occasion of the 300th anniversary of Rousseau’s birth, the city of Geneva has arranged a celebration called “2012 Rousseau pour Tous” (Rousseau for All).

Rousseau himself was not a watchmaker but he comes from a watchmaking family spanning four generations. His father worked for royalty as the “watchmaker to the Sultan”. It might be said that Rousseau’s methodical thought resulted from the observation of his grandfather David in his workshop “reasoning” with his hands, because watchmaking requires precision and a structural approach.

In honor of Rousseau’s horologic lineage, the Patek Philippe Museum and the Comité Européen Jean-Jacques Rousseau have put together a fantastic exhibition displaying “Timepieces Signed Rousseau” starting from the 17th century. Together with archival documents the exhibit showcases the Geneva Fabrique, an organization of craftsmen and women residing in Saint-Gervais. Within this group were jewelry and watchmaking industries, including goldsmiths, enamellers and engravers comprised of independent workshops working under the apprentice system. There are over 20 pieces directly signed by a Rousseau along with others made by watchmakers trained by a Rousseau.

While I was in Geneva, I had the opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe Museum and take some live pictures of the watches, including a wooden watch that was thought to belong to Jean-Jacques Rousseau. You can really see the high craftsmanship practiced by the watchmakers and the pride they took in their creations. They are not only technically accomplished but also aesthetically beautiful from the cases to the movements. In the collection are sophisticated complications like chiming watches and cases decorated by the accomplished enameller Jean-Pierre Huaud. The memento-mori (skull) and cross-shaped watches reveal what was on people’s minds at the time.

In addition to the Rousseau exhibit, the museum has over 2000 watches on display. It’s an amazing experience to see the evolution of watchmaking over five centuries. While there is an entire floor devoted to Patek Philippe’s watches, which is incredible, there are other watchmakers’ work represented such as Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. The automata in the back room are truly stunning.

If you are in or near Geneva, I highly recommend a trip to the Patek Philippe Museum. There is so much to take in that breaking it into two trips might be the way to go.

The Rousseau exhibit runs from May 11-October 13, 2012. You can check the museum’s schedule here. More pictures below.

We all know the crazy groundbreaking designs of MB&F, like the Legacy Machine 1,  HM4 Thunderbolt, the HM3 Rebel Yell and the HM3 Purple Frog. Every so often MB&F brings in another artiste to interpret one of the Machines. They’ve worked with Boucheron for the awesome JWLRYMACHINE, which was a wise choice. Now they’ve decided to take a decidedly Finnish approach by giving Stepan Sarpaneva a crack at the HM3 frog and came up with the MOONMACHINE.

Sarpaneva is no slouch in the talent department. He can find his way around a movement with the best of them. Consider that he worked alongside Kari Voutilainen, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret, watchmakers known for their talent in high complications such as Claret’s 21 Blackjack.

Sarpaneva is known for his moody moon, the northern stars and constellations and the distinctive Korona case, characteristic elements in all his watches. All appear in the MOONMACHINE.

Here the hand-finished moons indicate the moonphase through a Korona-shaped opening. The swing of the winding rotor comprised of steel and 22K gold represents the star-filled sky, accomplished by a laser piercing, which allows light to reflect through the movement.

If you find yourself over the moon for the MOONMACHINE, then you better get moving because it’s in 3 limited editions of 18 pieces each in titanium, black titanium and red gold.

Enjoy a short video on the MOONMACHINE produced by MB&F.

We told you about the Calatrava ref. 96 that started it all; the new splits second chronograph ref. 5204; and the rare perpetual calendar ref. 2499–well known and desired pieces. But Patek Philippe has other models on the menu you might not be aware of, but taste just as good.

Sometimes when you enter a nice, high end restaurant there are dishes from which you don’t know what to expect. Most people have this when the menu offers an Ostrich steak. What is Ostrich? What can you possibly expect from an Ostrich steak when you have never had it? Will it be like chicken? Maybe like steak, but that makes you instantly think of beef. Bottom line: a lot of guess work and not a step closer to knowing what it actually is before trying. Most people, for that reason and that reason alone, will leave it and choose something else. With watches it is often the same; we want something familiar, a nice dress watch for example, or a nice sports watch, both will do, of course, but in the same watch….?

That hesitancy is probably also what most people felt about the Patek Philippe Neptune. It’s Luminova coated hands and numerals combined with a screw down crown give you the idea that it is indeed a sports watch. Especially since Patek also offers it in steel, just like the Nautilus and Aquanaut. And when named after the god of the sea, one would almost expect that this is the watch to rule them all. But there is doubt; elegant lines, Roman numerals, alligator straps…not even with rubber lining, a bracelet that would go great with a suit and tie, khaki’s and polo’s if it has to, but please, not something too casual.

Patek not only knew this when they introduced the collection in 1996, but even did it on purpose. They referred to it as a leisure watch calling it, “Ideal for sportswear, the supremely elegant Neptune is, at the same time, the perfect dress watch”. They even went as far as saying that they believed that the watch was destined to become a contemporary classic. And that is where they are perfectly right! Yes, a Neptune will probably not be in many Patek collectors’ top-ten list of watches to get, and that is exactly why you should buy one!

The Nautilus may be a nice Filet Mignon, and the Aquanaut a juicy Tenderloin but any restaurant has them and most Patek-lovers can’t live without theirs. But why not go exotic? The Neptune couldn’t hold a candle to the success of both other watches, and that makes it just a little harder to find, more rare, and in the end, more exclusive. A true conversation piece, even or perhaps especially amongst Patek enthusiasts. Did I already mention that Patek even offered this watch in steel/gold?

The watch itself gives you very little to complain about. Just like the Nautilus and Aquanaut of those days, the Neptune is also powered by caliber 315 SC. With a height of 3.22mm it is sufficiently slender to prevent the need for a bulky case, yet at the same time sufficiently robust to feature in a watch for more active wear. This caliber also has a beautiful, full size gold rotor, which you can’t see since the Neptune has a screwed in case back. Patek offered the Neptune with either a black, silver or salmon pink dial, giving the watch distinctly different looks. Combined with the various different (precious) metal options, the Neptune collection was not only full of choices, but also offered something for everybody, especially when you count the various Joaillerie models that were available for both men and women.

So if those people who would pass up the Ostrich steak actually tried it they would have been rewarded with perhaps the juiciest and most tender steak they had ever eaten. If those people also tried the Neptune, they would experience what is perhaps the best “hybrid” watch of all.

You might like to look at some other Patek Philippe’s featured on The Watch Review Site such as the Patek Philippe 5204 Platinum or the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar  or even the Patek Philippe Ref. 5940 Ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/2_womens_watches/8161.html