The Watch Review Site » Patek Philippe Watch Reviews, News and Info Fri, 07 Nov 2014 01:36:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=4.0.7 Patek Philippe Museum – Rousseau Exhibit /patek-philippe-museum-rousseau-exhibit/ /patek-philippe-museum-rousseau-exhibit/#comments Fri, 18 May 2012 19:01:09 +0000 /?p=3214 Post image for Patek Philippe Museum – Rousseau Exhibit

Rousseau Exhibit at the Patek Philippe Museum

 

 

Perhaps one of the greatest thinkers of the 18th century was Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a native of Geneva. He fought for Democracy and freedom as well as personal responsibility and education. His politics and writings impacted the French Revolution and set the path for modern political thought. Ironically, he spent his life with an illiterate servant and supposedly fathered five children with her but didn’t take responsibility for any of them. Despite his personal failings, Rousseau inspired many and stands as one of the greatest influencers of the 18th century.

On the occasion of the 300th anniversary of Rousseau’s birth, the city of Geneva has arranged a celebration called “2012 Rousseau pour Tous” (Rousseau for All).

Rousseau himself was not a watchmaker but he comes from a watchmaking family spanning four generations. His father worked for royalty as the “watchmaker to the Sultan”. It might be said that Rousseau’s methodical thought resulted from the observation of his grandfather David in his workshop “reasoning” with his hands, because watchmaking requires precision and a structural approach.

In honor of Rousseau’s horologic lineage, the Patek Philippe Museum and the Comité Européen Jean-Jacques Rousseau have put together a fantastic exhibition displaying “Timepieces Signed Rousseau” starting from the 17th century. Together with archival documents the exhibit showcases the Geneva Fabrique, an organization of craftsmen and women residing in Saint-Gervais. Within this group were jewelry and watchmaking industries, including goldsmiths, enamellers and engravers comprised of independent workshops working under the apprentice system. There are over 20 pieces directly signed by a Rousseau along with others made by watchmakers trained by a Rousseau.

While I was in Geneva, I had the opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe Museum and take some live pictures of the watches, including a wooden watch that was thought to belong to Jean-Jacques Rousseau. You can really see the high craftsmanship practiced by the watchmakers and the pride they took in their creations. They are not only technically accomplished but also aesthetically beautiful from the cases to the movements. In the collection are sophisticated complications like chiming watches and cases decorated by the accomplished enameller Jean-Pierre Huaud. The memento-mori (skull) and cross-shaped watches reveal what was on people’s minds at the time.

In addition to the Rousseau exhibit, the museum has over 2000 watches on display. It’s an amazing experience to see the evolution of watchmaking over five centuries. While there is an entire floor devoted to Patek Philippe’s watches, which is incredible, there are other watchmakers’ work represented such as Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. The automata in the back room are truly stunning.

If you are in or near Geneva, I highly recommend a trip to the Patek Philippe Museum. There is so much to take in that breaking it into two trips might be the way to go.

The Rousseau exhibit runs from May 11-October 13, 2012. You can check the museum’s schedule here. More pictures below.

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Patek Philippe Neptune – Another Patek Star /patek-philippe-neptune-another-patek-star/ /patek-philippe-neptune-another-patek-star/#comments Tue, 01 May 2012 00:38:04 +0000 /?p=3174

Not Chicken, Not Beef, it’s a Patek Philippe Neptune

 

 

We told you about the Calatrava ref. 96 that started it all; the new splits second chronograph ref. 5204; and the rare perpetual calendar ref. 2499–well known and desired pieces. But Patek Philippe has other models on the menu you might not be aware of, but taste just as good.

Sometimes when you enter a nice, high end restaurant there are dishes from which you don’t know what to expect. Most people have this when the menu offers an Ostrich steak. What is Ostrich? What can you possibly expect from an Ostrich steak when you have never had it? Will it be like chicken? Maybe like steak, but that makes you instantly think of beef. Bottom line: a lot of guess work and not a step closer to knowing what it actually is before trying. Most people, for that reason and that reason alone, will leave it and choose something else. With watches it is often the same; we want something familiar, a nice dress watch for example, or a nice sports watch, both will do, of course, but in the same watch….?

That hesitancy is probably also what most people felt about the Patek Philippe Neptune. It’s Luminova coated hands and numerals combined with a screw down crown give you the idea that it is indeed a sports watch. Especially since Patek also offers it in steel, just like the Nautilus and Aquanaut. And when named after the god of the sea, one would almost expect that this is the watch to rule them all. But there is doubt; elegant lines, Roman numerals, alligator straps…not even with rubber lining, a bracelet that would go great with a suit and tie, khaki’s and polo’s if it has to, but please, not something too casual.

Patek not only knew this when they introduced the collection in 1996, but even did it on purpose. They referred to it as a leisure watch calling it, “Ideal for sportswear, the supremely elegant Neptune is, at the same time, the perfect dress watch”. They even went as far as saying that they believed that the watch was destined to become a contemporary classic. And that is where they are perfectly right! Yes, a Neptune will probably not be in many Patek collectors’ top-ten list of watches to get, and that is exactly why you should buy one!

The Nautilus may be a nice Filet Mignon, and the Aquanaut a juicy Tenderloin but any restaurant has them and most Patek-lovers can’t live without theirs. But why not go exotic? The Neptune couldn’t hold a candle to the success of both other watches, and that makes it just a little harder to find, more rare, and in the end, more exclusive. A true conversation piece, even or perhaps especially amongst Patek enthusiasts. Did I already mention that Patek even offered this watch in steel/gold?

The watch itself gives you very little to complain about. Just like the Nautilus and Aquanaut of those days, the Neptune is also powered by caliber 315 SC. With a height of 3.22mm it is sufficiently slender to prevent the need for a bulky case, yet at the same time sufficiently robust to feature in a watch for more active wear. This caliber also has a beautiful, full size gold rotor, which you can’t see since the Neptune has a screwed in case back. Patek offered the Neptune with either a black, silver or salmon pink dial, giving the watch distinctly different looks. Combined with the various different (precious) metal options, the Neptune collection was not only full of choices, but also offered something for everybody, especially when you count the various Joaillerie models that were available for both men and women.

So if those people who would pass up the Ostrich steak actually tried it they would have been rewarded with perhaps the juiciest and most tender steak they had ever eaten. If those people also tried the Neptune, they would experience what is perhaps the best “hybrid” watch of all.

 

You might like to look at some other Patek Philippe’s featured on The Watch Review Site such as the Patek Philippe 5204 Platinum or the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar  or even the Patek Philippe Ref. 5940 Ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar

 

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/2_womens_watches/8161.html

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Watch Photography – Mike Mellia /watch-photography-mike-mellia/ /watch-photography-mike-mellia/#comments Mon, 30 Apr 2012 23:10:41 +0000 /?p=3134

Mike Mellia – The Latest Watch Photographer in Town

As we all know Photography is big news at the moment, and in horology circles Watch Photography is becoming more and more important, Photographers are all turning their hand to it, but only a few have the eye and inginuaty to get it right.

In  Mike Mellia, The Watch Review Site thinks we have stumbled across one of the few exceptional photographers within the Watch World. I say stumbled, more like it landed straight on our desk (or laptop screen in this day and age) from one of our contributors. So thank you Meehna Goldsmith for introducing us to Mike Mellia’s work.

Mike lives in New York City and in his spare time he is an avid watch collector and pianist. But the interesting stuff comes now, His profession is as an advertising and fine art photographer based in New York City. His passion for watches and photography have led to the photography of some lovely timepieces and Mike has  several wristwatch clients including Christie’s New York, several wristwatch magazines and Altamarea Cinturini.In collecting watches, as all collectors Mike has his favorite brands, which include Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, Rolex, and Officine Panerai.

This passion for watches has led to a specific section on his website being dedicated to wristwatches, www.mikemellia.com/wristwatches.html. As a Wristwatch Advertising Photgrapher, Mike Shoots the wristwatches in the studio and on location, using multiple studio strobes and lighting generators to achieve a flawless, glossy composition.  It is often the case that clients are interested not only in portraying a particular wristwatch with extreme clarity, but also how the wristwatch itself adapts to suit the personality of the individual wearing it. The final shots can often lie anywhere on a spectrum between photorealism and extreme surrealism. Mike always seeks to translate his passion for life and horology into his final photographs.

Along with his great eye for Watches, Mikes other photography assignments are great pieces of art and really worth a look on his website www.mikemellia.com, some of my favourite pieces other than the watches are amongst Mike Mellia’s ‘The Psychological Portrait Gallery http://www.mikemellia.com/thepsychologicalportraitgallery.html

Now for a few more pieces from Mike Mellia’s Watch Selection

 

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Patek Philippe Reference 2499 /patek-philippe-reference-2499/ /patek-philippe-reference-2499/#comments Mon, 30 Apr 2012 17:25:35 +0000 /?p=3095

A Special Patek Philippe Reference 2499: A Game Changer

 

Written By: Meehna Goldsmith

 

Patek Philippe Ref 2499Introduced in 1950 the Patek Philippe reference 2499 has a well-deserved reputation as one of the greatest watches ever created.  It replaced the celebrated reference 1518, the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph made in series. Just this year Patek Philippe released another perpetual calendar chronograph featuring their own in-house chronograph movement, the 5270.

So exclusive is the reference 2499 that only 349 pieces were ever produced over a period of 35 years, the majority cased in yellow gold. A simple calculation reveals how rare this model is, with an annual average of only 9 watches produced in Patek Philippe’s workshops.

The arrival of this specific Patek Philippe 2499 rocks the horological world. Not only is it the first “fresh to market” first series pink gold to  since 2004 and only the fourth ever publicly offered example, but its existence was previously unknown to scholars and therefore redefines the history books.

Other known models of this reference in pink gold are all in 36.2mm Vichet case that’s recognized by its flat back and prominent elongated and downturned fluted lugs. Different from its siblings, this watch sits in a case by Wenger, featuring a larger diameter and more rounded lugs, creating a very strong impact.

This Patek Philippe 2499 is in magnificent condition, which would make any collector drool. Without blemishes and with just the right level of ivory-colored patina, the dial remains in a natural state, undisturbed by cleaning or restoration. Well-defined lugs and crisp hallmarks, including the case number, round out this beautiful portrait. According to the family, the watch was always in the possession of their late father.

This reference 2499 is definitely a game-changer, a unique piece that came out of nowhere. It makes me wonder what other treats could possibly materialize in the future from Patek Philippe…

This watch goes up for sale at the Christie’s on May 14th in Geneva. See the lot here.

 

You may also be interested in Other Articles at The Watch review Site relating to Patek Philippe such as /patek-phillipe-platinum-men-grand-complications/ or /patek-philippe-ref-5940-ultra-thin-self-winding-perpetual-calendar/ or even the /patek-philippe-ref-5204-men-grand-complication/

 

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/1_mens_watches/a-special-patek-philippe-reference-2499-a-game-changer.html

 

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication /patek-philippe-ref-5204-men-grand-complication/ /patek-philippe-ref-5204-men-grand-complication/#comments Mon, 02 Apr 2012 23:55:30 +0000 /?p=2651

Patek Philippe Sticks the Landing with the Ref. 5204

Written By: Meehna Goldsmith

Further to The Watch Review Sites recent article on the Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication  Meehna has a bit more of a horologistic view on matters. Lets see what Meehna’s thoughts are on the Patek Philippe 5204 Men Grand Complication below;

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication

It’s extremely hard to climb Mount Everest. Most wouldn’t even think of walking up to that challenge. It takes a lot of perseverance and grit to top the highest mountain in the world. Only a few can claim the feat. Doing it once might be luck. Doing it twice shows some skill. But continuously reaching the summit demonstrates mastery and expertise. That’s exactly what Patek Philippe continues to do in its high complications.

At Patek Philippe, topping themselves isn’t just a goal, it’s a mantra. And so they’ve proved again with the release of the Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication, a split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar. The title sounds relatively simple compared to what this thing does. Let’s break it down. The Ref. 5204 tells time, obviously. For everyday use, this will be the function you’ll go to most, providing you don’t make it a safe queen.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication In addition to telling time, the Patek Philippe 5204 Men Grand Complication  is a perpetual calendar. Not one you’ve got to reset several times a year (a regular calendar), or even once a year, twice if it’s a leap year (annual calendar) but never. That’s right, never! You don’t ever have to wonder where you are in the leap year cycle. If you keep it wound up. The Ref. 5204 will keep track of the Gregorian calendar long after you’ve kicked the bucket.

Now we come to the chronograph. A de rigeur complication for the sportsman, the chronograph breaks time into intervals. For example, in Los Angeles, you can time your meter so you don’t get a ticket or use it for barbecuing so you don’t make Uncle Bernie’s steak well-done when he likes it medium rare—or even time how long your Aunt Gladys keeps yapping at you before you can get away.

So you’ve got your perpetual calendar and chronograph, but that wasn’t enough for Patek Philippe. No, they wanted to top that chronograph summit with a split seconds. With a split seconds, you can measure intervals within intervals. There are two chronograph hands, one under the other. Once you make the split and note the time, the second hand catches up to the first (called a rattrapante) so you can mark another interval when you want to.

Patek Philippe reworked the splits function to include two innovations to optimize the alignment of the split-seconds hand and thus increase accuracy. They did this through an isolator for the splits-seconds lever, and a congruent alignment mechanism for the split- seconds hand and the chronograph hand, which qualified for a patent application.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication When are you going to use a split seconds if you’re not a horse trainer or high-school coach? Probably never. Still, it’s a rad complication and fun to play with.

Such complicated watches tend to have fussy dials, making the functions more of an art than a practice. But Patek Philippe nailed a crisp layout with in-line apertures for the day of the week and month below 12 o’clock, while a moonphase and date dial balance out the picture at 6 o’clock. The upside moonphase adds a provocative design element. Sub seconds and jumping 30-minute chrono counter reside just below the horizontal centerline at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively. A quick look between 4 and 5 o’clock reveals the leap-year cycle and a day/night indicator looks out between 7 and 8 o’clock.

While Patek Philippe previously used the outsourced Lemania for its chronographs, in 2009 they introduced the in-house produced manually wound, column-wheel-controlled CH 29-535 PS. Of course you could still expect the meticulous finishing Patek Philippe is known for, the finishing that makes grown men practically break down in tears. Gentleman that they are, Patek Philippe made the chronograph Ref. 7071 for ladies first and made the men wait. Chivalry is not dead at Patek Philippe.

The Patek Philippe 5204 Men Grand Complication steps it up a level (are you surprised?) and uses the in-house chrono caliber, culminating the brand’s expertise in producing a stunning triple-complication watch that demonstrates the utmost in technical virtuosity. It’s like doing a triple back flip with a half twist and sticking the landing.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204 Men Grand Complication I can’t wait to see it in other metals and perhaps with a rich Havana Brown dial, in a rose gold case and chocolate brown strap. Now that would be sweet.

Read a great explanation of the watch and technical innovations by Ron DeCorte here.

You may also be interested in Other Articles at The Watch review Site relating to Patek Philippe such as /patek-phillipe-platinum-men-grand-complications/ or /patek-philippe-ref-5940-ultra-thin-self-winding-perpetual-calendar/

 

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/1_mens_watches/the-patek-philippe-sticks-the-landing-with-the-ref-5204.html

 

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Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar /patek-philippe-7140-ladies-first-perpetual-calendar/ /patek-philippe-7140-ladies-first-perpetual-calendar/#comments Mon, 02 Apr 2012 23:26:23 +0000 /?p=2629

Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

Written By: D Constant for The Watch Review Site

Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

We look at the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar and we can clearly see that the growing love affair of women with mechanical watches and complicated functions is one of the great current trends in the world of horology. That must be the reason Patek Philippe saw fit to launch the 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar before any of its new Men’s novelties in 2012.

Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual CalendarCould their decision also be based on the response to the Ladies First Chronograph launched by Patek Philippe in Autumn 2009, along with further ladies complications launched 2 years later in 2011, being an ultrathin split-seconds chronograph and a minute repeater. Now in 2012 with the Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar, they hope to fasscinate every woman with a penchant for the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry and with the perpetual calendar, a grand complication that qualifies as an incarnation of eternity with its functionality, lasting value, reliability across generations, timelessly elegant design, and enduring array of diamonds. The workshops’ design team and the complications ateliers spared no effort to endow this complicated timepiece with an irresistibly feminine personality.

 

The Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual is beautiful and everlasting

Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual CalendarThis was Patek Philippe’s objective and it has been accomplished with panache and style. All of the elements of this elegant timepiece reflect feminine poise, from the classic round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold and the gracefully curved lugs to the shimmering creamy white dial, the interchangeable mink gray and royal purple alligator straps, the lovely bezel, and the clasp set with precious diamonds that deserve to be called a girl’s best friend.

The dimensions of the case are suited to a feminine wrist with its compact diameter of 35.10 mm and a height of 8.8 mm. Still even though it is neatly designed in a compact package the ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual still has eight indications, these being hours, minutes, date, day of the week, month, leap-year cycle, 24-hour subdial, and moon phases. All of these are well organised on the dial and are clear and easily read. This is achieved by the contrasting components to the White Opalescent Dial

The Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar has no less than 68 Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.68 ct. on the dial. The Ladies Perpetual Calendar comes with a solid-gold case back and an exchangeable sapphire-crystal display back that allows you to admire the magnificently intricately designed and artistically decorated mechanical caliber 240 Q. This is A Patek Philippe legendary caliber, which is assembled in the manufacture’s ateliers for it’s complicated watches.

Composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. This feat was made possible by recessing the off-center 22K gold minirotor in the plate, combined with an ingenious arrangement of the mechanisms for the perpetual calendar and the moonphase display. A key feature is the 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar’s mechanical memory of 4 years, which allows the perpetual calendar to always indicate the correct date, automatically taking into consideration the months with 31, 30, or 28 days, and the 29th of February in leap years. This means that as long as the 7140 Ladies Perpetual Calendar is worn regularly  and not let to run down the Ladies Perpetual calendar will take until 2100 before the calendar has to be manually adjusted and at that point it will only be by one day. So we have a watch if worn regularly that will most likely outlast you and see you to the grave (for want of a better term) or just think this is definately one for the family collection.

Patek Philippe 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

This timepiece has been designed for eternity and is has a hand-stitched alligator strap with a prong buckle in 18K rose gold which has a further 27 Top Wesselton diamonds totaling about 0.20 ct.

The Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar definately adds to, and enhances Patek Philippe’s collection of ladies’ watches and we look forward to the next installment in Patek philippes portfolio of complicated watches for women.

 

Technical details – Patek Philippe Ref. 7140 Ladies First Perpetual Calendar

Complicated ladies’ wristwatch with perpetual calendar in 18K rose gold

Movement: Caliber 240 Q, Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement.

Perpetual calendar with analog displays for the date, day of the week, month, and leap-year cycle. Moon phases.

Diameter: 27.50 mm

Height: 3.88 mm

Number of parts: 275, Number of jewels: 27

Power reserve: 48 hours

Winding rotor: Recessed 22K gold minirotor, unidirectional winding

Balance: Gyromax®

Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)

Balance spring: Spiromax®

Functions: Two-position crown – Pushed in: To wind the watch – Pulled out: To set the time

Displays: Center hour and minute hands

Subsidiary dials: – Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock – Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock – Date and moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors: At 9 o’clock: Day of week correction, Between 11 and 12 o’clock: date correction, Between 12 and 1 o’clock: month correction,

At 6 o’clock: moon-phase correction

Features

Case: Round Calatrava case in 18K rose gold (4N),

cambered sapphire crystal glass,

bezel with 68 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds totaling approx. 0.68 ct.

Snap back in 18K rose gold and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back.

Water-resistant to 30 meters

Case dimensions: Diameter 35.10 mm, Height: 8.8 mm (overall), Height: 8.7 mm (back to glass), Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial: White opalescent, Six applied Breguet numerals in 18K rose gold, Thin leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold

Subsidiary dials: – Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand, – Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand, – Date and moon phases at 6 o’clock: leaf-shaped hand

Diamonds Bezel set with 68 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (totaling approx. 0.68 ct.)

Clasp set with 27 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (totaling approx. 0.20 ct.)

Strap: Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny mink gray, prong buckle in 18K rose gold, diamond-studded.

Additional handstitched alligator strap with square scales in royal purple.

You may also like to see some other Patek Philippe Watch reviews

/patek-phillipe-platinum-men-grand-complications/or

/patek-philippe-ref-5940-ultra-thin-self-winding-perpetual-calendar/

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The Sound of Time /the-sound-of-time/ /the-sound-of-time/#comments Sat, 17 Mar 2012 18:58:34 +0000 /?p=2212

The Sound of Time

By
Published: March 8, 2012   
PARIS — For most of the past decade the watch industry has been entranced by the tourbillon’s hypnotic revolutions, with brands spinning out the cagey little complication in ever greater numbers and more ingenious ways.       

But recently watchmakers have broken free of the spell, shifting their attention from the visual fascination of the tourbillon to the tuneful appeal of the minute repeater.   

Minute repeater clocks and pocket watches were invented in the mid-18th century, before the advent of electric lighting. Their practical function at that time was their ability, though chiming gongs, to sound the hours, quarter hours and minutes in separate tones, enabling people to tell the time even in the middle of a pitch black night.

Over the past year, close to two dozen new minute repeater models have been introduced in the luxury wristwatch market, by brands as diverse in style and heritage as Bulgari, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Louis Vuitton, Audemars Piguet, Speake-Marin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Breguet, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux and Parmigiani Fleurier.

The number of new minute repeaters on the market is staggering, considering that there is no real need for them in the modern world. But that irrelevance — the sense of belonging to another world — is part of their appeal.

“There is a true fascination in being able to hear the time, it harks back to another lifetime,” Peter Speake-Marin, an independent watchmaker, said by e-mail ahead of the introduction of his first venture into the genre, the Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater, at Baselworld this week. “When it is visible, to see the levers, cams and springs moving, it is a thing of curious beauty,” he added.

While the minute repeater function is no longer particularly useful, the complexity of the mechanism gives makers serious bragging rights.

At the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva in January, the minute repeater watches garnered the biggest buzz.

Cartier’s haute horlogerie watchmaker, Carole Forestier-Kasapi, proudly showed her Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon. The brand’s first in-house-manufactured minute repeater, it took five years to complete.

“The minute repeater is complex because in this mechanism you need to have in mind not only hours and minutes but also to be able to translate them into sound,” Mrs. Forestier-Kasapi said. “That’s why a minute repeater mechanism includes a large number of components: Their number increases the complexity of the mechanism in an exponential way.”

Mrs. Forestier-Kasapi complemented her minute repeater with the added eye candy of a tourbillon complication. Just like the minute repeater, the tourbillon — a gyro device to counter the distorting effect of gravity on vertical timepieces like clocks and pocket watches — serves no useful function in a wristwatch. But by putting an additional spin on the complication, in a variant known as a flying tourbillon, the watchmaker was able to demonstrate her brand’s high creativity and growing technical prowess.

The technical difficulty of building a minute repeater, which incorporates an additional spring to power the chiming mechanism, is a clear way for watchmakers to distinguish themselves. To sound the hours, quarters and minutes, the mechanism uses three snail cams — tiny rotating devices, shaped like a cross-section through a snail shell, that transmit a repetitive bumpy motion as they turn, like a wheel with a bent rim. The bumpy motion cocks and releases the hammers that strike the chimes.

And then, there are the chimes themselves to build and tune, a painstaking process using wires of varying tension and thickness, like miniature piano strings.

While some watchmakers like to flaunt their skills in see-through skeleton designs, Van Cleef & Arpels has chosen to conceal its minute repeater complication behind the richly decorated faces of its new Poetic Wish watches, which tell a romantic story of lovers seeking one another against a backdrop of the Paris skyline.

For Nicolas Bos, Van Cleef’s global creative director, this discretion is in keeping with the brand’s philosophy that a watch’s complications should serve, not dominate, its narrative.

“Jean-Marc Wiederrecht helped us determine this was the best movement to illustrate the story,” Mr. Bos said by e-mail, paying homage to the Geneva watch designer who has conceived Van Cleef’s Poetic Complications watch line since 2005. “The minute repeater was able to add a sensorial layer” of sound that accompanies the visible movements of the lovers whose passage across the dial traces the passage of time.

But it is Michael Parmigiani of Parmigiani Fleurier who is truly setting the pace in the minute repeater revival, introducing several new models this year: the Toric Westminster Eiffel; the Toragraph Tourbillon Minute Repeater with Chronograph; and the Toric Questor Minute Repeater, offered in a limited edition of just two watches, one in platinum and one in 18-karat rose gold.

Why so many?

“While we already have a great collection at Parmigiani Fleurier, we felt we needed to have a minute repeater in the Haute Horlogerie segment as well as a minute repeater with Cathedral gong, chronograph, perpetual and annual calendar,” Mr. Parmigiani said. “It is a way to achieve excellence in the profession and to prove our know-how by creating such rare models.”

Source: New York Times
A version of this article appeared in print on March 9, 2012, in The International Herald Tribune

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Digital Luxury Group unveils haute horlogerie World Watch Report results /digital-luxury-group-unveils-haute-horlogerie-world-watch-report-results/ /digital-luxury-group-unveils-haute-horlogerie-world-watch-report-results/#comments Thu, 15 Mar 2012 13:10:12 +0000 /?p=1935

Digital Luxury Group unveils haute horlogerie World

Watch Report results

23 January 2012 | By Laura McCreddie

The leading market research for the luxury watch industry released its findings, based on analysis of consumer searches through engines such as Google, Bing, Yandex and Baidu, for the 15 high-end watch brands that participated in this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

It found that, for the first time since 2004, China has over taken the US to become the highest consumer of high-end watches, with 25% of international search market share, compared to 21% for the US.

Another first was Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak usurping Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso as the most wanted haute horlogerie model. For the first time in three years the Reverso is now third behind the Royal Oak and IWC’s Portuguese.

Despite the Royal Oak being the most wanted watch, the report found that the most searched brands are IWC, which has 23% of the online demand, Patek Philippe, which has 16%, and Zenith, which has 11%.

This result could be due in part to IWC’s social media presence. The brand is active on Facebook, Twitter, and Sina Weibo, a Chinese microblogging website. On Facebook alone IWC has a 230,000 strong community, making it over double the size of its closest competitor Jaeger LeCoultre on 85,000.

The full edition of the WorldWatchReport, which covers 40 brands and 20 markets, will be available in March at BaselWorld

Source: http://www.retail-jeweller.com/news/digital-luxury-group-unveils-haute-horlogerie-world-watch-report-results/5032955.article

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5940 Ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar /patek-philippe-ref-5940-ultra-thin-self-winding-perpetual-calendar/ /patek-philippe-ref-5940-ultra-thin-self-winding-perpetual-calendar/#comments Fri, 09 Mar 2012 03:04:19 +0000 http://www.gamota.co.uk/wordpress/?p=889

Patek Philippe Ref. 5940

Ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar

A great classic reasserts its tradition

The ultra-thin self-winding Perpetual Calendar has ranked among Patek Philippe’s most popular complicated watches for many years. Now, the workshops are relaunching it in a format that emphasizes the brand’s heritage in perpetual calendars: the Ref. 5940 in an 18K-gold cushion-shaped case.

The new ultra-thin perpetual calendar Ref. 5940. With a length of 44.6 mm and a width of 37 mm, it features a very contemporary format with strong masculine appeal due to its modest height of merely 8.6 mm. The watch is delivered with a sapphire-crystal snap back, which allows the owner to observe the consummately finished movement at work, and with an interchangeable snap back in solid yellow gold.

The caliber 240 Q movement is composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. The perpetual calendar always indicates the correct date, automatically taking into consideration the months with 31, 30, or 28 days, and the 29th of February in leap years. It does not need to be corrected until 2100, a secular year that omits the leap daypursuant to the rules of the Gregorian calendar. But this adjustment can be made quickly and easily, and thereafter, the watch will continue to display the correct date for the next 100 years, provided it remains wound without interruption. The moon-phase display is similarly accurate: it deviates from the true position of the moon by one day every 122 years, which is equivalent to a daily error of 0.002‰. And finally, the rate accuracy of the movement – responsible for timekeeping precision – is impressive as well. It ranges from -3 to +2 seconds per day as stipulated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal for all mechanical movements with diameters of over 20 mm.

This stunning rate accuracy is celebrated on a dial that deserves the attribute timelessly elegant in every respect. It has a grained, cream-colored surface that perfectly matches the gold hue of the case and is framed by a black transfer-printed railway-track minute scale that faithfully follows the contours of the bezel. Applied Breguet numerals as well as slender, leaf-shaped hands in gold indicate the time, accompanied by three subsidiary dials for the calendar displays. At 9 o’clock: the day of the week and the 24-hour dial. At 3 o’clock: the month and leap-year cycle. At 6 o’clock: the analog date and the moon phases.

All indications are well organized and crisply legible, as is customary at Patek Philippe. With its new Ref. 5940, Patek Philippe opens up a new chapter in perpetual calendars with the revival of the cushion-shaped case that looks as topical today as the 1920s and 1930s Art Deco showpieces in the Patek Philippe Museum that inspired it. The stately timepiece is worn on a matt black hand-stitched alligator strap with square scales and a prong buckle in 18K yellow gold.

 

Technical details

Movement: Caliber 240 Q Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement. Perpetual calendar with analog displays for the date, day of the week, month, and leap-yearcycle. Moon phases.

 Diameter - 27.50 mm

 Height - 3.88 mm

 Number of parts – 275

 Number of jewels- 27

 Power reserve – 48 hours

 Winding rotor – Recessed 22K gold minirotor, unidirectional winding

 Balance - Gyromax®

 Frequency – 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)

 Balance spring – Spiromax®

 Functions -Two-position crown, Pushed in: to wind the watch, Pulled out: to set the time

 Displays – Center hour and minute hands

 Subsidiary dials – Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock, Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock, Date and moon phases at 6 o’clock

 Correctors – At 9 o’clock: day of week correction, Between 11 and 12 o’clock: date correction

                     Between 12 and 1 o’clock: month correction, At 6 o’clock: moon-phase correction

                     Setting stylus in ebony and 18K yellow gold delivered with the watch.

 Hallmark – Patek Philippe Seal

 Case – Cushion-shaped case in 18K yellow gold, cambered sapphire glass.

            Sapphire-crystal snap back and interchangeable solid snap back in 18K yellow gold.

 Water-resistant - to 30 meters

Case dimensions – Length x width 44.60 x 37.00 mm, Height: 9.25 mm (overall), Height: 8.5 mm (back to glass)

Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial – Cream-colored, grained

Nine applied Breguet numerals in 18K yellow gold.

Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K yellow gold.

Day of week, month, and date hands in 18K yellow gold.

24-hour and leap-year-cycle hands in blued steel.

Strap – Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt black, prong buckle in 18K yellow gold.

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Patek Philippe – A great classic reasserts its tradition /a-great-classic-reasserts-its-tradition/ /a-great-classic-reasserts-its-tradition/#comments Fri, 09 Mar 2012 02:38:03 +0000 http://www.gamota.co.uk/wordpress/?p=876

Press Release

 Baselworld 2012

 Patek Philippe, Geneva

 March 2012

 Patek Philippe Ref. 5940

Ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar

 A great classic reasserts its tradition

 The ultra-thin self-winding Perpetual Calendar has ranked among Patek Philippe’s most popular

complicated watches for many years. Now, the workshops are relaunching it in a format that emphasizes the brand’s heritage in perpetual calendars: the Ref. 5940 in an 18K-gold cushion-shaped case.

In the category of grand complications, which includes tourbillons, minute repeaters, or split-seconds chronographs, the perpetual calendar unquestionably offers the greatest everyday utility because it always indicates the correct date by taking into account the different durations of the months. Perpetual calendars were coveted complications in Patek Philippe pocket watches dating back to the 19th century. And when wristwatches became fashionable, the manufacture in Geneva was the first to miniaturize the ingenious calendar mechanism to such a degree that it would fit in cases for the wrist, which incidentally were much smaller then, than they are today.

It was 1925 when Patek Philippe presented the world’s first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. Watch No. 97’975 displayed the hours and the minutes from the center, the seconds in a subdial at 9 o’clock, and the moon phases at 3 o’clock. Its analog calendar indicated the date with a hand from the center, the day of the week at 12 o’clock, and the month at 6 o’clock, taking into account leap years but without actually displaying the 4-year cycle as is customary today. The calendar functions were implemented asinstantaneously jumping displays – a particularly challenging degree of difficulty.

Ref. 5940. Ultra-thin perpetual calendar in a form case

 Around this time, the Art Deco movement established itself in Europe. With its clear and creative style elements, it influenced the fine arts and architecture, furniture, and product design in a distinctive way that has lost none of its persuasive eloquence. Patek Philippe embraced the style as well. Not as a short-lived trend, however, but as a sustainable design philosophy that continues to manifest itself in the Gondolo collection. The class of so-called form watches includes all timepieces whose cases are not round. Form watches can be square, rectangular, or triangular as well as rhombus-, tonneau- and cushion-shaped. The still young and readily visible wristwatch soon acquired the status of a design accessoire and remains very much en vogue to this very day. At Patek Philippe, cushion-shaped watches were highly popular, and some models can now be admired in the showcases of the Patek Philippe Museum. Alongside the round Calatrava classics, the unique Golden Ellipse, and the inimitable, casually elegant Nautilus, they are envoys of Patek Philippe’s timelessly beautiful design language.

The cushion-shaped case experienced a first renaissance in 2010 with the ultra-thin split-seconds monopusher chronograph Ref. 5950 in stainless steel, and now, it stands in the limelight again with the new ultra-thin perpetual calendar Ref. 5940. With a length of 44.6 mm and a width of 37 mm, it features a very contemporary format with strong masculine appeal due to its modest height of merely 8.6 mm. In the high-tonnage presses at Patek Philippe’s workshops, the slender silhouette is literally wrought out of 18K-gold blanks with the traditional cold-forming technique, followed by numerous consecutive machining steps. Finally, long hours of manual work are invested in polishing each case to a mirror gloss. It has gracefully curved flanks that appear to melt into the seamlessly integrated strap lugs. The watch is delivered with a sapphire-crystal snap back, which allows the owner to observe the consummately finished movement at work, and with an interchangeable snap back in solid yellow gold.

Caliber 240 Q: a legend for eternity

 The caliber 240 Q movement is a masterpiece of technology crafted in its entirety in the manufacture’s ateliers for complicated watches. Composed of 275 individual parts, it is only 3.88 high, despite the fact that it is self-winding. The basic movement launched in 1977, with a 22K-gold off-center mini-rotor recessed in the plate, already accounts for 2.53 mm. So merely 1.35 mm remain for the mechanical memory that spans an entire 4-year cycle and at the same time emulates the lunar orbit. The perpetual calendar always indicates the correct date, automatically taking into consideration the months with 31, 30, or 28 days, and the 29th of February in leap years. It does not need to be corrected until 2100, a secular year that omits the leap day pursuant to the rules of the Gregorian calendar. But this adjustment can be made quickly and easily, and thereafter, the watch will continue to display the correct date for the next 100 years, provided it remains wound without interruption. The moon-phase display is similarly accurate: it deviates from the true position of the moon by one day every 122 years, which is equivalent to a daily error of 0.002‰. And finally, the rate accuracy of the movement – responsible for timekeeping precision – is impressive as well. It ranges from -3 to +2 seconds per day as stipulated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal for all mechanical movements with diameters of over 20 mm. This beats the values required for officially certified chronometers.

A timelessly elegant face

 This stunning rate accuracy is celebrated on a dial that deserves the attribute timelessly elegant in every respect. It has a grained, cream-colored surface that perfectly matches the gold hue of the case and is framed by a black transfer-printed railway-track minute scale that faithfully follows the contours of the bezel. Applied Breguet numerals as well as slender, leaf-shaped hands in gold indicate the time, accompanied by three subsidiary dials for the calendar displays. At 9 o’clock: the day of the week and the 24-hour dial. At 3 o’clock: the month and leap-year cycle. At 6 o’clock: the analog date and the moon phases. All indications are well organized and crisply legible, as is customary at Patek Philippe. With its new Ref. 5940, Patek Philippe opens up a new chapter in perpetual calendars with the revival of the cushion-shaped case that looks as topical today as the 1920s and 1930s Art Deco showpieces in the Patek Philippe Museum that inspired it. The stately timepiece is worn on a matt black hand-stitched alligator strap with square scales and a prong buckle in 18K yellow gold.

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