Another Year, Another Fab Salon QP has opened its Doors……

SalonQP is with us once again, and at its fabulous location of the Saatchi Gallery on Kings Road in London. Tonight 6th November 2014 is its opening Night and by some strange and unfortunate coincidence I double booked and was unable to attend…. maybe something to do with my Birthday, How inconsiderate of my mother all those (cough… cough…) years ago. But I will be there tomorrow, woo hoo.

Well we thought we would give you a little insight on what you can expect from London’s very own Fine Watch Show, this may not be exactly what you expect as we are going to try and look at some of the less publicised exhibitors along with the usual fabulous stalwarts of the show and fast becoming the UK’s go to watch guys.

So let’s begin with some of the more common known names to our readers Bremont – this fabulous British Institution (well it’s getting there) will be showing its wares at SalonQP again this year and I’m sure anyone attending will be welcomed as always by the Bremont team and Brothers, I’m personally looking forward to get to grips with the Bremont Boeing colab-watch,  I just really like the crisp clean look of this watch and along with other c0llaborations Bremont has achieved a fantastic timepiece in my opinion.

I do hope the Bremont collection makes it’s way to the Show, as production is on way and deliveries are expected in December… if its not we will still be able to take an up close and personal look at the Jaguar and Chivas Regal collaboration watches along with the lovely Wright Flyer Limited edition Timepiece too.

Yes, that’s the watch that has the new Movement in it and caused a bit of stir after its launch in July… In House movement or NOT… that’s all been cleared up now and a little miscommunication or words taken out of context a little shouldn’t take away from the fact that bremont have moved on with manufacturing watches in the UK and made great strides in getting the UK watchmaking industry back on track, So the Wright Flyer and it’s Part Developed and Designed movement the BWC/01 which will be making their debut at SalonQP. They have been busy in Henley this last year… Sticking with UK Watchmakers/designers and ones that have made significant strides in the past year and first time exhibitors and a Watch Review Site Favourite we have Christopher Ward, this affordable watch manufacturer has again in collaboration with Swiss watchmakers and ateliers, which they now own have created there own in house movement the SH21 which is housed in the C9 Harrison 5 Day Automatic which was launched in July 2014.

The C9 Harrison 5 Day is a lovely piece and stands along the C900 Single Pusher which we have reviewed hands on and the C9 Jumping Hour and C900 Worldtimer which both have Christopher Ward JJ movement which have been designed and made by a wiz of a watchmaker Johannes Jahnke, who you could meet at SalonQP and see him at work….

Here’s some of the collection you could be feasting your eye’s upon at SalonQP over the next few days from Christopher Ward.

Moving on but sticking with the UK, we have our lovely and formidable Giles Ellis from Schofield Watches…. Schofield has always Launched a watch at Salon QP and this year is no different with the introduction of the Beater, which comes in three metals… Bronze, Titanium and Steel and here is a photo from Schofield Watches own twitter feed of the watches from today’s SalonQP.

The Beater has been launched at SalonQP and the first look at these new creations by Schofield Watches was this evening, again a bad reason to miss tonight’s event, but I cant wait to get hands on tomorrow.

So The guys that brought us The Signalman, Signalman DLC and Blacklamp, with that fabulous case have stepped on again using more materials. Its not only the watches you get from Schofield its an experience when you purchase one of their timepieces, the selection of fabulous straps are amazing, not to mention the torches, pen knives and other accessories they have come up with, the latest being  a Schofield Pen, all of these accessories are made using only the finest materials and workmanship.

As I said I cant wait to see what Giles has up his sleeve for next year, but first tomorrow.

With time catching up to me, I thought I’d sneak in just a couple more for you to consider visiting…. well I would definitely visit the next two at SalonQP.

First up is a Belgium based brand who I first come across in Basel last year even though they have been around a tad longer than that… Raidillon 55.

Raidillon is a Belgium brand named after a corner/curve on the old Spa circuit, and the 55 was the maximum number of cars allowed to race on the Old Spa Race Track, so a very apt name for a race inspired watch brand.

All of the Raidillon watch collections are powered by Swiss Movements and the majority are Chronographs and come in 38mm and 42mm cases. Another great aspect is that all Raidillon watches come in strict limited editions of 55 pieces a very nice touch in my eyes, and they are priced well for the quality of design, build and movement.

Raidillon 55 are a first time exhibitor at SalonQP and as I understand it are a first time exhibitor in the UK, so its a great opportunity to get hands on with these great watches and see for yourself what I’m banging on about.

Think of it this way I have decided to add them to a post which has three of the best British watch brands we have available to us today so that must mean something… I hope.

Here’s a look at some of their pieces.

And the final place I would like to tell you to visit during SalonQP and its a must for all watch aficionados and that stand is Wolf… Wolf Watch Winders, I personally have one and they are great and fabulous value for money.

Oh and another of our favourites who will be there is Nomos Glashutte, again another must visit watch stand for the pure simplicity of design and fabulous cases, along with some amazing German Glashutte engineering.

I’m sure I’ve missed a few, probably a lot but I will give you a greater insight tomorrow.

Due to time and needing some sleep before venturing to SalonQP tomorrow I leave it there, but will be tweeting photos and providing a review of the event over the weekend, So why not tune back in to The Watch Review Site and see what I get up to at London’s only Fine Watch Show….

The Soprano by Christophe Claret

Tourbillon minute repeater with four cathedral gongs

Whilst at SalonQP 2012 we had the pleasure in seeing the Christophe Claret Soprano Timepiece in person (persay), the guys at Christophe Claret’s stand were very eager to tell us all about the Minute Repeater and it’s spectacular chimes and how they mimic exactly the note of our very own Big Ben… Can you imagine Big Ben on your wrist? I did joke about the Soprano obviously being a little quieter than the Houses of Parliament’s own Big Ben, but I think it got lost in translation and went over the Christophe Claret representatives head.

He went on to explain the functions of the timepiece and again repeat this fascinating take on how the watch reacts and chimes on the quarter hour (some achievement in the watch world) and how the actual gong or chime is activated, quite a fascinating insight into the movement in this Soprano Tourbillon Minute Repeater, all in all we liked The Soprano not only for what it has achieved in the chime department and workings of a watch, but also in its looks department, as for the price well see for yourself, this is a timepiece available in two variations each limited to a mere 8 timepieces each worldwide.

We enjoyed finding out about the Soprano and it’s patented gong movement so we thought you may be interested too, so here is a detailed overview from Christophe Claret.

The Soprano features a musically accurate 4-note minute repeater striking Westminster Quarters on patented cathedral gongs, a 60-second tourbillon and Charles X style bridges, all on a spectacular dial-free view. The Soprano pays homage to the roots of Christophe Claret’s manufacture, which has innovated in striking complications, tourbillons and sapphire components since its earliest years. Indeed, in 1997 Christophe Claret was the first to incorporate sapphire components – comprising plates and Charles X style bridges − in a wristwatch movement.

The Soprano is a timepiece of contrasts: traditional haute horlogerie with state-of-the-art manufacturing; English Parliament with French King; historic complications with contemporary design; aural indications with visual displays; noble gold with high-tech titanium, and metal components with sapphire elements.

The minute repeater is considered – with good reason − to be one of the most demanding and difficult horological complications to realize due to the marriage of technical complexity with artistic musical tonality. A minute repeater tells the time audibly with two notes created from two small hammers striking two gongs: one for the hours, one for the minutes and a combination of the two for the quarter hours. Even more complex is the Clarion repeater with three notes that can play a simple melody for the quarters.

However, the nec plus ultra of the minute repeater realm is the Westminster– so called for the distinctive tune played by the Big Ben clock at the Palaceof Westminster, home of the British Parliament. Big Ben strikes a complex melody for the quarters with four hammers striking four notes on four bells. To provide an even fuller and richer sound than standard repeaters, the Christophe ClaretSoprano features four cathedral gongs, each circling the perimeter of the movement twice (a normal gong goes around only once). And to further ensure that the rich sound reaches the listen’s ears, the central case band is in grade 5 titanium, a metal known for its superior acoustic properties and used in musical instruments.

A few decades before Big Ben began chiming Westminster Quarters over London, the French king Charles X was making a significant impact on art, architecture and horology. One of the defining characteristics of pocket watches created during this period were stepped bridges, which became known as Charles X bridges. Having spent much of his early watchmaking career restoring beautiful timepieces from this epoch,Christophe Claret incorporated this historic design element into the Soprano.

In 1997,Christophe Claret was the very first to use sapphire bridges (even then Charles X style) and plates in wristwatch movements, and the Soprano makes liberal use of sapphire components to allow visual access into the mechanisms. From the smoked ring circumscribing the movement that discreetly hides yet subtly reveals the cathedral gongs, to the transparent mainspring barrel at the top of the open dial, and turning over to the clear repeater inertia governor cover visible through the sapphire display back. 

“When I created Manufacture Claret over 20 years ago, the very first movement I developed was a minute repeater so the complication has always been very special to me.” Christophe Claret 

Minute Repeater: The minute repeater, which strikes the time on demand (usually by activating a slide on the caseband), is an extremely difficult complication to realize because:

1. Technically, it is a very complex mechanism.

2. Musically, the notes have to ring clear, loud and harmoniously.

With decades of experience developing striking watches, Christophe Claret has not just mastered the mysterious art of minute repeaters, but has brought the genre into the 21^st century. Working with a piano tuner, Claret developed a computer program called Analyser 2000 that records and analyses the notes for pitch, duration and loudness, and even the length of the silent pauses between notes. This enables the Christophe Claret manufacture to consistently create harmonious and musically accurate melodies with strong crystalline notes.

Each note is determined by the precise length and diameter of the gongs. The hammer has to strike forcefully for a loud sound, but immediately leave the gong so as not to deaden the ring.

“The melody chimed by the Soprano is as musically correct as possible.”Christophe Claret

Repeater operation: When the repeater slide is activated, the chimes sound the number of hours with C (Do), the deepest note; followed by the Westminster Quarters’ melody for the quarter hours (unless fewer than 15 minutes after the hour); and then the number of minutes after the last quarter hour.

Patented cathedral gongs: Each cathedral gong circles the movement twice so that one coil lies just above the other. Because the coils are so close together, they can touch each other as they vibrate, which can create a disconcerting buzz. Christophe Claret invented a system that effectively avoids this problem, which was awarded a patent.

Westminster Quarters:Westminster Quarters, also known as Westminster Chimes, is a four-note tune originally written in 1793 for the bells of the St Mary the Great Church in Cambridge,England and was known as the Cambridge Chimes.

However, in 1859 the melody was chosen for the clock tower at the Palace of Westminster in London. A clock now more commonly known now as Big Ben, though the term originally referred to just the large hour bell. So well known did the four-note chimes become that they came to be called Westminster Chimes.

The melody is played when the watch strikes the quarter hours (each 15 minutes) as just a single deep note is played for the hours and another single (higher pitched) note for the minutes.

While the Westminster Quarters melody is usually played in the key of E major, theChristophe ClaretSoprano chimes in the key of C major to provide longer resonating and happier-sounding notes.

Manufacture Claret is one of a very elite few manufactures with the skills, knowledge and capability to create four-noteWestminsterminute repeaters.

Transmission of Sound: The purpose of a minute repeater is to allow the time to be heard rather than read, which was a very useful feature before the invention of electric lamps (and mobile phones). To maximize the sound of the notesChristophe Claret has incorporated three features into the Soprano: Cathedral gongs, an open dial and a titanium caseband.

“One of the keys of developing an excellent minute repeater is ensuring that the sound can escape easily.” Christophe Claret

Cathedral gongs: Standard repeater gongs (the bell) are usually made from a hardened steel wire that makes a one complete circle around the movement or dial. The Soprano is equipped with four cathedral gongs, each circling the movement twice to provide a fuller and richer sound.

No dial: To minimize barriers to sound − and to maximize visual appreciation of the finely finished movement and the operation of the striking mechanism − the Soprano has no dial which allows the beautiful melody out and showcases the tourbillon, repeater operation, mainspring barrel, winding mechanism and Charles X bridges.

Titanium caseband: The case of the Soprano is in three parts: upper and lower (bezel and caseback) sections in gold and a central titanium caseband. Titanium was selected for its superior sound transmission qualities. Where gold tends to deaden sound, titanium effectively transmits sound from the interior of the case to the exterior. The sound qualities of titanium are so good that the metal is often used for saddle bridges in high-quality guitars.

Tourbillon escapement: Christophe Claret has an affinity for the tourbillon escapement, for both its kinetic beauty and its superior chronometric performance. In fact, Claret is so dedicated to the tourbillon that it is the standard escapement for all of his manufacture movements. The 60-second tourbillon carriage of the Soprano is on full view through the open dial at 6 o’clock and is supported by a single arm stepped bridge in the characteristic style of Charles X.

Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon escapement at the end of the 18^th century, so it is only fitting that Claret has complemented the Soprano’s tourbillon with a ‘parachute’ shock protection system – another Breguet invention.

Charles X: In 1824, Charles Philippe the Count ofArtois succeeded his brother Louis XVIII to the throne ofFrance and became King Charles X. While his rule lasted just six years – ending with the July Revolution of 1830 – Charles was a great patron of the arts and his influence was seen throughoutFrance in architecture, art and horology. The watchmaking of this period was prolific, generally of very high quality and distinguished by a particular form of stepped bridge.

Sapphire components: Christophe Claret is a pioneer in making movement components from sapphire crystal and in 1997 was the first to develop a movement with sapphire plates and bridges (and even then his first sapphire bridges were in the Charles X style he admired form his has in restoration of historic timepieces). Since then, Manufacture Claret has been at the forefront in the use sapphire components that allow maximum appreciation of movement and mechanisms.

There is the obvious scratch resistant top crystal and display back as well as the more discreet smoked sapphire hour and minute ring around the open movement. But sapphire is also used to allow the viewer to delve even deeper. A transparent mainspring barrel under 12 o’clock allows both the barrel to be seen turning while being wound and the approximate power reserve to be deduced by the state-of-wind of the visible mainspring. The repeater’s inertia governor at 3 o’clock has a clear sapphire cover so it can be seen silently spinning as it regulates the speed of the chiming gongs.

Christophe Claret – The Soprano – Technical Details

Two limited editions of eight pieces each

CALIBRE TRD98: 

Dimensions: 27.6 x 46.4 x8.45 mm

Number of parts: 450

Number of jewels: 39

Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.)

Barrel: Single mainspring barrel in transparent sapphire crystal

Tourbillon: Escapement: Swiss lever type, Oscillation frequency of the balance: 3 Hz (21,600 vph), Tourbillon rotation 60 seconds, Flying tourbillon, Charles X style stepped bridge, Parachute shock protection

Functions: Hours and minutes, 4-note minute repeater playing Westminster Quarters, Mechanical, hand-wound movement, Transparent mainspring barrel acts as movement state-of-wind indicator: when the movement is fully wound the spring is centered in the barrel

Distinctive features: Four visible hammers, four patented cathedral gongs, Repeater mechanism features silent inertia governor, Tourbillon regulator with parachute shock absorber, Charles X style stepped bridges

Case: Round

Dimensions: 45mm x 56.80mm x 15.32mm

Water resistance: 3 ATM  /30 m/100 ft

Case Material: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD titanium / Anthracite PVD and black spinal hands. Limited edition of 8 pieces or White gold and anthracite PVD titanium / Black PVD and ruby or blue spinal hands. Limited edition of 8 pieces

Slide: Repeater mechanism is activated by a slide on the left side of the caseband

Crown: Red gold and titanium (red gold case) or white gold and titanium (white gold case)

Strap: Black hand-sewn alligator leather with black stitching (red gold case), red or blue stitching (white gold case)

Buckle: Red gold and titanium (red gold case) or white gold and titanium (white gold case)

Limited edition: Each of the two versions is issued in a limited edition of eight pieces

Suggested retail price: From 468’000 Swiss francs exclusive of VAT thats £315,000 plus VAT so more like £380,000

SalonQP Photo Diary – The Final Episode

Well here it is Part 6 of our SalonQP Photo Diary and this is the final piece of the jigsaw, with a few more snaps of the Schofield Signalman, A few Giuliano Mazzuoli, a little Ehber & Co and a tad of Girard Perregaux with a couple of shots of some of the other stands at SalonQP.

Were to begin, well we think an introduction to Giuliano Mazzuoli is a great place, this little known Italian designer has ventured into watches and bases his concepts on real objects like with the Manometro Watch and based on a pressure gauge, very nice simple, clean timepieces

The Mazzuoli Manometro comes in various guises, being Polished Steel, Brushed Steel, Carbon Fibre, Titanium (Black) and a Rose Gold/Titanium version too, with two dial colours (cream and Black) and the choice of the crown at 2 o’clock or 10 o’clock. There are also chrono versions and a smaller version for the better half of the world called the Manometrino at 27mm diameter.

The Manametro on the Wrist

The next offering from Giuliano Mazzuoli is the Trasmissione Meccanica, and as it suggests is based on gears and transmission gears

moving on from our Italian watchmaker to a few more well known names in the industry like Girard-Perregaux, who where at the show and represented by their UK distributor and agent Giles of Perrelux.

Classic Girard-Perregaux 1966 minute repeater

Moving on to Ehber & Co and we were taken in by the Chrono 4, here are some snaps of the Ehber & Co Chrono 4

a side shot

and now for a full frontal

We think its about time to show you a couple of the stands of the other brands left in the camera and here is MeisterSinger’s Stand at SalonQP, the Glashutte Based watchmaker has some wonderful timepieces and 90% of its collection is Single handed pieces, also don’t forget they won in one of the categories of European Watch of the year 2012 in the inaugural event just a couple of months ago.

 and also Corum at SalonQP, unfortunately we just did not have enough time to get up close and personal with many brands at SalonQP Corum being one of them.

And for our parting shots of the SalonQP 2012 event we have decided to showcase the Schofield Signalman GMT PR and DLC

The two Schofield Signalman watches side by side… Which is your favourite?

Schofield Signalman DLC on the Wrist

Now for some pics of the Stainless Steel Signalman GMT

Well that concludes our Photo Diary of SalonQP 2012. Hope you have enjoyed it? and it has given you a feel as to what to expect next year…. We can’t wait.

For the full list of all our photo diary articles visit our SalonQP dedicated page here.

SalonQP Photo Diary – Part 5

 
I know we said we said this will be the last one but looking at the memory card it may drag over into two more articles, I’m sure you don’t mind being exposed to more photo’s of some lovely watches a little more.

So what have we install for you today from our adventures at SalonQP, well we have Speake Marin, maybe a little Jaeger-LeCoultre with Aston Martin thrown in for goos measure and some Arnold and Sons too…

So lets start with our very own British Speake Marin, yes we know Peter Speake-Marin is now firmly based in Switzerland but he is a native Englishman who begun his journey through to master watchmaker in London, lets start off with the Speake Marin Resilience and straight off with a wrist shot, shame this was not on my own wrist but that of Speake Marine representative at SalonQP, hey he had a nice cuff whereas I was a bit rough and ready

The Resilience is a really nice classic clean dial timepiece which has the Eros 2 movement all within the Speake Marin Piccadilly Case.

I was pleasantly surprised by the actual fit of the piccadily case on the wrist with the extended lugs it just seems really long, but its not and fits very very well, I also like the crown again didn’t think I would but it is a nice crown. So we had to get a better snap of it below

Now to the caseback and movement of the Speak Marin Resilience, as we said the case is the Piccadilly and that is clearly engraved on the caseback

As we where at the Speake Marin Stand at SalonQP it would be a diservice not to get to grips with the Spirit Mark II and also the Serpent Calender timepieces, firstly the Serpent Calender on the wrist

and now to the Spirit Mark II one of Peter’s most affordable models

Moving on from Speake Marin even if we don’t want to I’m sure we should, let’s go onto  Jaeger-LeCoultre and their Aston Martin Collaboration timepieces and let us begin with the AMVOX 07 which was unveiled at the show on day 1 of SalonQP, literarily as we walked in to the event…

It’s a shame that when we managed to get to JLC stand we did not manage to get the AMVOX07 hands on, not sure if anyone did… so here are the best shots we got of the Aston Martin Related Watches this is the AMVOX 07

And the AMVOX 05

Here are some more shots of the Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX range

As Jaeger-LeCoultre had many stands in and around SalonQP, well we say many they had the Aston Martin AMVOX Launch stand and another large watchmaking masterclass stand too, the AMVOX stand was dedicated to this range and had a variety of Aston Martin parts dotted around as seen below

and now to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Watchmaking masterclass and main stand, this should give you a feel as to how influential JLC was at the event

Well that’s our Jaeger-LeCoultre experience at SalonQP and before we sign off for today we thought we would show you some of the Arnold and Son timepieces on show at SalonQP 2012 too, a brand with some extensive heritage dating back to the 1700’s

We had a lovely chat with Alan from Nuval, who are the distributors for Arnold and Sons in the UK about the brands heritage and it’s links to royalty in the past, and moreso its Swiss base and manufacture and got to see some of the pieces first hand. Like this Arnold and Son TBR in Stainless Steel

and this Arnold and Son DBG

Maybe just one more from Arnold and Son with the DBG Rose Gold

I think we have had our fill for today, but we have just one more for you tomorrow which will have some more Schofield Watch Company, a bit of Corum maybe some more Bremont Watch comanpy Victory Watch and definately some Giuliano Mazzuoli which we like the idea behind the watches very much based on everyday motoring objects and dials.

Hope to see you all tomorrow.

SalonQP – The Watch Review Site Photo Diary – Part 4

So for Part 4 of our Photographic tour of SalonQP 2012, and we promise you will see the Zr012 Experiment Nitro-Glycerine this time, along with the Gronefeld One Hertz and a little Hermes plus a few more individual shots….

So as promised here it is in the flesh as it may be…. the C3H5N3O9 or Nitro-Glycerine Watch by the guys behind URWEK and MB&F as presented to us at SalonQP by Ian Skellern or Under the Dial as you may all know him.

The first photo is of the C3H5N3O9 on my wrist if you couldn’t guess

and now for a few more different angles of the Experiment on the wrist and against the odds and looks it fits superbly and comfortable on the wrist even my small 6 3/4 inch wrist, which by chance is exactly the same size as Ian’s, this great fit is all down to the moving top lug and positioning, but more on this in the full article coming soon on The Watch Review Site.

Just look at how it hugs the wrist below.

and the strap is nice too, and it closes by itself effectively no pressure required

Enough of the WOMW shots, as need to keep some back for the article and onto a few other photographs of this limited edition masterpiece, oh and we are told a Rose Gold version is in the pipeline…

As for that wankle movement here is a clear one for you movement fanatics, and watching it turn and move is a sight, its so perfectly balanced and needs to be.

We nearly forgot the caseback of the Experiment ZR012 C3H5N3O9 an piece of work itself, whereas the face and top of the case is very space age, mechanical and heavy looking, the case-back has been made more subtle more organic and animal like, softer to contrast the front of the watch but compliment it also.

and a close up of the Power reserve

I think that is enough to wet the apetite and from one fantastic and strange movement to another great movement made by the Gronfeld brothers Bart and Tim out of the Netherlands and the Gronefeld One Hertz, well a version of… First lets show you a number of Gronefeld watches including the Rose Gold GTM-06 all on show at SalonQp before we move onto the Titanium and Orange One Hertz Fire to give it the proper name

Here is a closer look at the Gronefeld GMT-06

And now for the Gronefeld One Hertz Fire…. Apt name based on the colouring of the dial and markers

and now for the movement on the One Hertz Fire, which I have to say is a lovely sight… if you have not guessed I’m a fan of a nice looking modern stylistic movement.

and again

The obligatory wrist shot, yes we do try and wear the watches we photograph so we can get a feel for the weight and comfort factor.

Moving on from Gronefeld as we can’t just keep showing you photo’s of the One Hertz Fire, so now we move onto Hermes, starting with a little look at the Hermes stand at SalonQP and the latest movement which enabled them to begin making ladies watches as Mechanical Automatics and not Quartz.

Now on to the watches that Hermes have to offer

and just one more Hermes automatic watch

Now that is nearly the end of our SalonQp Photo diary, just one more article to post tomorrow and that will include the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Guiliano Mazzouli, Schofield Watch Company and Speake Marin…

SalonQP Photo Diary – Part 3

Well this is now becoming a Saga is it not, the third part of our SalonQP visit (Part 1 is here, and Part 2 here) has some fabulous highlights, including our hands on with Meridian Watches brand new watches launched at the show, along with some time with Gronefeld’s Titanium Orange and Black One Hertz Watch and its in house movement with it’s exceptional quartz like second hand. We also had a very special time with the Experiment ZR012 Nitro-Glycerine or C3H5N3O9 amongst others…

Ooh we forgot the Robert Loomes timepieces we spent a little time with, have to say Robert and his partner were very open and honest about their timepiece and its resilience a great team and would love to visit the manufacture soon to get an insight in the watch-making process of a pure breed fully British Watchmaker and thats even down to the movement an original adapted Smith… I think this is a good starting point for Part 3 of our Photo diary and here goes with the Robert Loomes Stand at SalonQP

and here is the men’s watch, known as the Robert Loomes Robin Watch as we said British from its heart all the way to the tips of the strap…

and for the ladies version, with a lovely striking purple strap

On to the movement, this has been hand engraved by Robert himself, he didn’t like the machine engraving which is present in his literature and was at odds to mention that to us… and he is right and as for his engraving work he has been self taught, yes.

As we said at he heart of the in watch is a 1950s English movement. Originally made by Smiths, this is the same mechanism that Sir Edmund Hillary famously carried to the summit of Everest entirely re-worked for the Robin watch.

Oh and the obligatory on the wrist shot

Sticking with the English or British theme lets get on to the Photographs with Meridian Watches, the New British based watch maker, who prides itself on everything being hand made in Great Britain, well everything except the base movement which is undoubtedly Swiss.

There are white or black dial variations, and Stainless Steel, Meridian Black ( not PVD, IP or DLC but a special formulated Meridian Black) and a Meridian Black Aged Version Case which is probably my Favourite. Just one more thing you have some with small seconds at 6 o’clock or 9 o’clock.

and here is the Meridian Black Aged Case Version on my Wrist  

and the SS case white dial on Simon of Meridian Watches Wrist too

and a little touch we like is the Crown which can be seen here…

As we are on the British theme we thought it may be appropriate to show you a little more of the Schofield Watch Company Stand and will issue Part 4 later with the ZR012 Experiment and a few more highlights of the show.

So here are some Schofield shots

Giles Ellis of Schofield with our Competition winner

Now for a couple of shots of both Giles and Matt doing what they enjoy at SalonQP

and we cant leave without having a shot of the watch itself, this is the Signalman DLC on the Wrist, not my wrist but Giles’s

Hope you enjoyed Part 3 and look out for Part 4 very soon with the ZR012, Gronefeld, Speake Marin to name a few… I think we have some JLC and Hermes too.

Our Take of SalonQP in Photos -Part Two…

 
Well if you follow us on Twitter and Facebook you will know we have been out and about at SalonQP at The Saatchi Gallery in London from Thursday evening through to yesterday, The Watch Review Site has already brought you some shots from the event, here are a few more to get to grips with.

So where shall we start today, well maybe with a few photographs of the event itself,

and here we have the Bell and Ross Stand with Community Ambassador Simon Cudd and Danielle…

and another

And this is Simon Cudd doing what he does best…. No not the one above but the one below on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram getting the Bell & Ross name out there as always.

moving on from B&R to the Bremont Stand at SalonQP

With a Bremont Pocket Watch, I do have to say they do put together a good stand at Bremont, Innovative, always something to look at and friendly as pie…

It’s a really nice piece we think… and here are a few more of the Bremont stand

and Don’t Forget the Bremont Victory on my Wrist…

and here is another taster of the Victory Watch, we will be issuing a detailed analysis of the Bremont Victory soon on The Watch Review Site

Moving on from our friends from Bremont Watch Company to DeBethune and William and Son of London who represent a number of brands and watchmakers out of their Mount Street Outlet.

and now for the De Bethune DB28, a nice watch not dissimilar in shape to the ZR012 Experiment Nitro Glycerine, or URWERK UR-200 series with their strange case lug fitments is that a far as they go in similarity, bearing in mind the movements and independent background of the later two… We have had the hands on pleasure with all, yes all including the Nitro Glycerine and UR-210.

Looking at it again, OK the crown is on the top and Lugs are different but that’s really it in comparison’s, anyway here are a few more pic’s of the DB28

and the back

We will do a more personal review on the De Bethune DB28 later on in the coming weeks… For now here are a few more De Bethune timepieces on show at SalonQP.

And now for a treat for the attendees at SalonQP, Vacheron Constantin had an engraving and enamelling positions within there stand and allowed the general public to even get to grips with the engraver and bearing in mind it is one of only 5 (I think that is what they said) in the world, it is something to be very proud of for Vacheron Constantin and SalonQP for getting it here to the event. We managed to get some photo’s for you of the engraving machine and enameller

and here is a little close up..

and a member of the public using the engraver

and now for the enamelling

I think that will be enough for now, but look out for more tomorrow on our adventure at SalonQP in pictures, we have a little hands on with the new Meridian Watches, British hand made watches and sticking to the British theme we have some great shots of the Robert Loomes offerings, and that is fully British made even down to the movement, we have not seen this for over 40 years… Along with a little more form our friends at Schofield Watch Company and even some Jaeger-LeCoultre and the link with Aston Martin.

SalonQP – Our take in Photos.

By The Watch Review Site Team

Here is our take on SalonQP and the watchmakers we visited during our visit today, P.S. we did not have the camera on the Thursday evening reception but it was a fantastic night and thank you once again to James Gurney and QP Magazine for putting together such a great event…. Thanks guys and girls, much appreciated by the UK watch fraternity…

Well we have had the pleasure of attending SalonQP at the Saatchi Gallery on Thursday Evening and this afternoon, and thought it was time to let you into some of the watchmakers and people we bumped into on our travels…

Here is a little extract of the numerous photographs we took during our visit, we will be writing detailed takes on all of the below over the next few days/weeks. If anyone has a favourite please comment and we will prioritise.

Bell & Ross 

We were introduced to Simon Cudd B&R ambassador by the lovely danielle for those who don’t already know it, great to put a face and voice to a twitterati… youy can follow Simon on Twitter @SimonCudd

The Bell & Ross BR01-92   46mm Stainless Steel – We liked it even on my Piddly 6 3/4 inch baby wrists.

Bell & Ross BR03-94 Commando   42mm a little more appropriate for my wrist but I keep getting drawn to the BR01

Side by side but the photo doesn’t do the size difference justice, the BR01 on the left is a substantially bigger looking watch and I for one really like it, but either would do hint hint B&R… P.S one for Hands on Review would be much appreciated.

Moving on from B&R to Schofield and our friends Giles and Matt, do they talk the talk and actually they also walk the walk, Schofield as a brand and watchmaker has become a well known name within the watch community and for no small reason the Signalman is a fabulous timepiece and has received acclaimed reviews across the board… Not only do the guys give you a great watch but the entire package and ethos of Schofield and Giles is superb, the packaging, the strap options, the DLC, the travel case are all meticulously designed and constructed and no stone in unturned for unrivalled passion in their product… Good Job Guys and look forward to many more designs and concepts soon.

Schofield Watch Company – you can follow The Schofield Watch Company @SchofieldWatch on twitter

As for the Pics, here goes

The Schofield Guys, Matt Hopwood and Giles Ellis – Sorry guys about the photo but needs must….. 

Schofield Signalman GMT PR on the Wrist – 44mm diameter it’s a lovely piece and next delivery should be in for Feb/Mar 2013 available for pre order.

Schofield Signalman DLC on the Wrist – 44mm diameter I may prefer this one limited to 100 pieces again next delivery should be in for Feb/Mar 2013 available for pre order but selling out fast.

They said it’s hard to get a good photo due to the doomed sapphire crystal and AR coating, this is probably my best attempt.

One of the Schofield Displays at SalonQP

Revelation Watches

So far that is only 2 of the many watch brands and makers at SalonQP so moving on we got collared by (or should we say we collared) Revelation, now this Brand was new to us but we have been really take by their RO3 Chronograph, with a Dubois Dépraz movement decorated inhouse. But what makes this watch stand out other than its looks and feel is the fact that you can set the dial as Black or as seethrough so you may see the movement, hopefully the photos do it justice. Just one thing the watch we had on our wrist and is photographed below is a prototype and the final version is slightly different asthetically, the ones photographed in the case are the final design.

Revelation Ro3 – 45mm diameter in both SS and Black IP

Revelation R03 with Black dial – bezel set all the way to the left

Same Watch Revelation R03 but with bezel set all the way to the right so you can see internal movement.

We do really like these and will be giving you a lot more information on the Revelation Brand and its watches, because the R01 and R02 are also great pieces to write about, especially the tourbillon, with a balance wheel moving with the second indicator. Keep them peeled.

Oh we also visited URWERK and had a little time with the UR-210 and UR-1001 (now that’s a pocket watch and a weighty one at that)

URWERK UR-210 up close and personal – do we need to say more

URWERK UR-210 on the wrist 43.8mm wide & 53.6mm long

It’s surprisingly fits fabulously well and is extremely comfortable to wear which has a  lot to do with the setting of the strap pins and shape of the watch.

URWERK UR-210 caseback – a little easier to photograph under all those lights…

Moving on to the UR-1001 Pocket Watch, I just wish I had a set of scales to weigh it as it was hefty and weighty, you know you have a lump of mechanics when you pick this up.. But it is all about the movement as with teh UR-210 above.

Sorry about the reflections – But here is the UR-1001 Pocket Watch

Side by Side the URWERK masterpieces..

We also passed by our friends from Glashutte in Germany with both NOMOS Glashutte and Meister Singer Exhibiting at SalonQP, we took a few snaps of a couple of the pieces here

The NOMOS Glashutte Zurich – 39.7mm diameter.

One of the Nomos Teams latest timepieces with Blue dial, again photo doesn’t do the dial justice it is exceptional and a very clean cut simple wonderful watch.

NOMOS Zurich – Blue and Brown faces 

Now onto MeisterSinger another Glashutte representative and again clean timepieces but with Single hand, yes most of their pieces are single handed timepieces

MeisterSinger Singulator – 43mm diameter I know I said single hand and it is but it has two sub-dials which indicate the minutes and seconds too, for when a single hand just doesn’t do it…. Lovely timepiece fits well again even on bony wrists like mine.

This shows the dial and sub-dials a little clearer.

MeisterSinger Singular – this is a one hand Chronograph with pin needle second hand and minute  sub-dial

I’m probably edging on the side of boring at the moment so will quickly show you some snaps of our little vivist to Seiko and their GPS  Solar Astron and Tag Heuer, First SEIKO ASTRON

Now to Tag Heuer

Meridian Watches – New British Watchmaker

Launching at SalonQP 2012, The Meridian Watch Company will introduce its inaugaural range of hand made wrist and pocket watches to the public…. We wonder what the team at Meridian Watches have instore for us, what we do know is that they a ‘Made in England’ and proud of it.. Here is a pre launch press release

In rural Norfolk, The Meridian Watch Company are hand-making watches that remind the world of England’s proud watchmaking heritage.

As proclaimed by their slogan, ‘Made in England’, Meridian manufactures the components and sources the materials from the home of Byron and Blake. From the case and back, machined as a pair to fit perfectly, to the leather or webbing strap, handstitched in Surrey, every element is carefully hand-worked to their exacting standards and English sensibilities – understated, enduring and purposeful.

Lastly, the base Swiss movement is hand-finished in Meridian’s style – with added complications improving accuracy – and the watch is assembled in the workshop.

Meridian watches are intended to be worn, knocked about and enjoyed: the straps grow to the individual contours of your wrist, the sapphire crystal is coated on both sides by a British military contractor for unsurpassed clarity and toughness, and the case has been designed to handle a lifetime’s exposure to the elements, both in England and abroad.

To facilitate this, the packaging includes a complimentary passport holder from SmythsonTM of Bond Street. Handmade tools also accompany every Meridian timepiece.

This all sounds great so we can’t wait to get a glimps of what Meridian have to offer come tomorrow evening at SalonQP…. Good Luck The Meridian Watch Company.

An array of wrist and pocketwatches, will be launched at SalonQP 2012 (8–10 November; London)

As this is a SalonQP related article don’t forget you can have a chance to get hold of complimentary tickets to Saturday’s event at The Saatchi Gallery by entering our little giveaway courtesy of Schofield Watch Company and The Watch Review Site. If you want a chance to win enter here.

Giles Ellis – Schofield Watch Company Biography

Introducing Giles Ellis – Director of Schofield Watch Company who launched his inaugural watch the Signalman GMT PR at SalonQP 2011 and will be returning this year to The Saatchi Gallery for SalonQP 2012.

On his return with Schofield Watch Company, Giles and his team will be exhibiting both the Signalman GMT PR and DLC GMT PR, along with the extensive essentially British accessories that he has procured to compliment this luxury timepiece and brand. Not only will Giles and Schofield adorn the halls of the Saatchi Gallery with their watches and accessories but Giles will also be undertaking a talk titled ‘Designing in Circles’  It is here that Giles will discuss various influences and constraints that have shaped Giles work as a designer, including the design and creation of the Schofield Signalman GMT PR and the Signalman DLC.

We have the pleasure at The Watch Review Site to be able to offer you a chance to attend this talk along with a chance to get hands on with the Signalman watch and tickets to SalonQP for Saturday 10th November 2012. All courtesy of Giles and The Schofield Watch Company and all for free.. Giles or one of his team will talk you through the Signalman and spend a little time with you so you can make the most of your visit. Oh and don’t forget its not only the fabulous Signalman on show at SalonQP, there will be many, many timepieces to feast your eyes on during the day.

All you need to do to enter this great little competition is register your interest here, just enter your name, email address and phone number. We take your privacy seriously at The Watch Review Site and promise your details will not be passed on to any third party unrelated to this promotion. The only people that will have access to your details will be, us here at The Watch Review Site and our friends at Schofield Watch Company. We also promise not to bombard you with emails, you may get one every now and then when we have a special event or launch.

So onto a little about Giles Ellis, Giles is the designer and director of Schofield Watch Company. A perfectionist through and through, Schofield was a company born out of Giles desire to build his perfect wrist watch. Taking inspiration from the Arts and Craft Movement Giles has developed Schofield into a company that values the crafted approach to manufacturing, seeking to promote uniqueness in both product and customer experience.

The Signalman watch is testament to this ethos and to Giles’ uncompromising dedication, over several years of research, design and development, prior to the company launch at Salon QP in 2011.

A man who lives and breathes design, Giles’ career path has been diverse and unusual. Growing up Giles was surrounded by creativity and craftsmanship; his father being a skilled woodworker and his mother a sculptor. This background instilled a passion for design and fabrication, a willingness to create particular and peculiar objects, to source items of unique and obscure interest, and to labour in areas of high end craftsmanship and design. Giles has run a business restoring antique Italian Bowl-back Mandolins and other rare musical instruments.

To this day his home is adorned with a myriad of Victorian banjos, ukuleles and mandolins. Giles’ talents also extended into making and designing parts for performance mountain bikes and high-end hi-fi equipment. This creatively diverse history has helped inform and refine Giles natural understanding of design as well as develop his ability to make luxury objects to the highest level of style and quality.

Schofield is now part of the revival of watch making in England with its company offices based in rural Sussex.

Now we hope this has wet your appetite and you would jump at the chance to meet Giles and his Watches in person at SalonQP 2012. So why don’t you enter our little competition for the chance to do so. Here’s the link /schofield-watch-company-salonqp-2012-competition-entry/ 

Giles has always had an interest in the luxury fashion market and regularly blogs on his site pelicanfossa.com.

You can follow Giles on Twitter and Facebook @schofieldwatch and www.facebook.com/schofieldwatchcompany