Awestruck by the Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck

Written by: Scott Greenman

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Take a look at these Ulysse Nardine Masterpieces.

 Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck Rose Gold #1062-113

Ulysse Nardin Platinum Moonstruck Watch #1069-113

The first time I saw these watches they took my breath away and I have seen a lot of high end watches (Breguet, Patek Philippe, Varcheron Constantin, etc.). Then I started to read about the movement and the history behind the watch and it motivated me to write this entry.

Ludwig Oechslin, the creator of these watches, has been in the watch industry all of his adult life.

Ludwig Oechslin

In the year 1972 at the age of 20 Ludwig began his studies in history, philosophy, archaeology, ancient history, Greek and Latin. By 1976 he had graduated from the University of Basel and was urged to seek a profession that he could use his hands both practically and creatively.

Later that year Ludwig found his calling with a well-know watchmaker named Jorg Sporing. He became more and more interested in the inner workings of clocks and wristwatches. Soon, he was working on astronomical clocks more than 250 years old with unequalled complexity.

Prague’s Old Town Hall and Astronomical Clock

In 1983 he received his doctorate from the University of Bern in theoretical physics and was discovered by Rolf Schnyder, Owner of Ulysse Nardin. Rolf saw limitless potential in Ludwig and asked him if it was possible to build an astrolabe as small as a wristwatch. Ludwig replied “Who would be interested in buying that?”

Rolf Schnyder, Owner of Ulysse Nardin

Over the next twelve years of his life Oechslin became internationally recognized as an expert on astronomical timepieces from the 16th to 18th century and traveled throughout Europe. Also during this time he created the now famous “Trilogy of Time” series which were featured in the Guinness Book of Records under mechanical marvels.

Ulysse Nardin Trilogy of Time Watches

In 1984 he received his watchmakers diploma and became a master watchmaker in 1993 (although he was recognized as a master far earlier in his life). In 2001 Ludwig was named the curator-director of the International Watch Museum, the most complete and renown horological collection in the world. Even after receiving such a prestigious position Ludwig ideas helped produce the Ulysse Nardin Freak 7-day carrousel tourbillon and the Sonata alarm GMT watch.

Ulysse Nardin Freak Blue Phantom #020-81

Finally in 2009 Ludwig led us to the stars again with the Moonstruck which shows the relationship the earth has between the moon and the sun. Instead of the earth rotating, the sun and moon move around the earth to simulate the rotation of the globe. Probably the most substantial part of this movement is the accuracy that was attained by splitting the rotation on the moonphase plate between two discs. That allows the moon phase indicator to be accurate for more than 100,000 years. Couple that with a GMT indicator and years of experience that Ludwig and Ulysse Nardin have you can’t go wrong.

You may also be interested in the following article on Ulysse Nardin /ochs-und-junior-teams-up-with-ulysse-nardin/ 

Diamond, Silicon and Coffee: Ochs und Junior Teams Up with Ulysse Nardin

 
Written by Meehna Goldsmith

Selene

While an ETA movement can certainly make a watch tick and is known for its reliability, watch geeks prefer a more sophisticated motor. Though Ochs und Junior will continue to use ETA calibres, they plan to incorporate the respected UN-118 calibre into future projects.

Just because you’ve got an in-house made movement, doesn’t make it better. What makes the UN-118 so notable? It has a patented DIAMonSIL escapement and in-house-produced oscillator adjustable with four screws and fitted with a silicium 1.1.1 hairspring.  A very light but hard material that will remove friction and eliminate the need for escapement lubrication, DIAMonSIL is a melding of silicium and man-made diamond.

The decision by Ochs und Junior to upscale should remove a roadblock that held back some from purchasing one of their watches. One of the criticisms that continued to pop up was that the price point was just too high for an off-the-shelf movement. “Incorporating this wonderful calibre will do us a lot of good in the eyes of watch collectors, naturally,” admits Beat Weinmann, chief communicator of Ochs und Junior. He promises its use will lead to some exciting developments. Meehna previously did an interview with Beat Weinmann where he gives more insights on the brand.

Ochs und Junior is really upping their game. Not only have they scored the use of calibre UN-118 but they’ve also moved into new digs on Zürichstrasse in Lucerne. Here you can wander in and sip an espresso, the best in Switzerland, according to Weinman, and, if you come on Saturday, you’ll be treated to a “very fine” local seven-year-old cheese. Plan accordingly.

Anno Cinquanta

In the showroom, which is really an artistic enclave, you get a unique shopping experience. In addition to Ochs und Junior watches, you can purchase handmade llmia sneakers from Germany in the same eco-tanned leather as the Ochs und Junior straps, freshly ground coffee, handmade skateboards, leather shopping bags and lamps. Weinmann’s wife Bea also locates her photo studio on the premises, adding to the creative ambience.

The showroom isn’t what one would call a corporate environment usually adopted by watch brands. And, that makes Weinmann very happy to hear because it represents the company ethos. “Our venue on Zürichstrasse and its unique atmosphere embodies this individuality,” says Weinmann. “It is like our watches.”

The Ochs und Junior customer is “after something out of the ordinary,” explains Weinmann. It’s true, with this brand you get something quite different. On the whole, the watch industry trumpets the complexity and number of parts in a movement like it’s a huge triumph. Oechslin works from a different premise: the art of simplicity. He built the world’s most mathematically accurate moonphase indication using just five components, one of which is the dial, as well as an annual calendar based on just three additional components. “That’s extreme watch design,” asserts Weinmann. Innovation like this calls for a high level of intellectual rigour. And that’s what Ludwig Oechslin offers.” We wrote a hands-on review of his due ore here.

With Oechslin retiring from his Directorship at the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) in 2014, the Ulysse Nardin-Ochs und Junior partnership will benefit both companies, providing a mutual brain trust.

We can’t wait to see what the mind of Oechslin will come up with now that he’s got the UN-118 and the new playground on Zürichstrasse.

You might also like the following articles or watch reviews on The Watch Review Site: Christopher Ward’s C700 Grande Rapide watch insight or our look at the Panerai 424 california 3 Day.

Article provided by Meehna Goldsmith you can also follow Meehna on Twitter @thewatchlady

Original article can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/2_womens_watches/diamond-silicon-and-coffee-ochs-und-junior-teams-up-with-ulysse-nardin.html