88 Rue Du Rhone Launch in the UK at The Watch Hut
Written by Chris Derrer – Blogger for The Watch Hut
One of Switzerland’s newest watch companies has begun trading here in the UK, having only been founded back in 2011, 88 Rue Du Rhone watches may be the new kids on the block, but they’re showing some of the old boys how to do it.
Pierre and Elie Bernheim are the two men behind 88 Rue Du Rhone (88RDR) watches and they are the grandsons of non other than Swiss watch making legend Raymond Weil. We know from the family history, that these watches are from pedigree, but what’s different about them to Raymond Weil watches?
Well to be brutally honest… most things are different, in a good way. The watches in the range all have a far more contemporary feel to them than their relatives, with the influence being aimed at a more youthful audience. The designers have added the use of a red second hand on every men’s watch, with many pieces featuring simple and sleek designs.
Unlike many other Swiss brands, 88 Rue Du Rhone watches are also set at a far more friendly price point, with prices starting at just £275, opening the luxury and prestige watch market up to a whole new audience of people.
The quirky story behind the watches name and the presence of the number 8 on each individual piece is another unique selling point. They are named after the address where the River Rhone joins Lake Geneva, a gap on the Rue Du Rhone between buildings where a thing of true beauty happens. The number 8 is also a number of good fortune in many cultures, so having the double 8 on the dial and at the 8 o’clock for many, offers a quirky style and the opportunity of good fortune.
The Swiss spirit is still strong within these watches, but what is different is what is best about them, they bring the Swiss watch market up to the modern day, and open it to far more people who ordinarily would have never considered a watch brand such as this.
88 Rue Du Rhone chose The Watch Hut as one of their exclusive launch partners.
Article supplied by Chris Derrer you can follow Chris @WatchHut_Chris and @TheWatchHut
You can also see the entire range of 88 Rue Du Rhone Watches at The Watch Hut
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A new Size for Panerai Best Selling Collection
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days – 42mm
Written by: D Constant for The Watch Review Site
So Panerai have begun to experiment with their trusted Luminor Marina, This being one of their most respected and the mainstay in the Panerai collection along with being the watchmakers bestseller of the Officine Panerai collections.
Now for the first time we see it in its all new 42mm case size the previous Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 days Automatic was 44mm, and the Historic Paneraia Luminor Marina 1950 3 days which was the biggest of the Luminor Marina Range has had 5mm shaved off its strapping 47mm diameter to be presented in an all new 42mm, that’s even smaller than the Standard Historic Luminor Marina timepieces (That’s if any Panerai Watch can be called standard???). Most Panerai Timepieces are 45mm, 44mm or 40mm in diameter and their historic range can go to 47mm, but this is one of the rare occasions that Panerai have opted for 42mm case diameter are they thinking of doing this along the entire collection of contemporary pieces and hence no longer producing 44mm and 40mm alternatives….. I doubt it but maybe?
The Panerai 1950 3 day is presented for the first time in this new size of 42 mm in two versions, We have the PAM00392 or Steel version and a Rose Gold or Oro Rosso version reference PAM00393. Panerai would lead us to believe the Steel is the Sportier derivative and can withstand 100m or 10bar water resistance and the Rose Gold Luminor Marina 1950 3 day to be the more elegant and less robust of the two with only 5bar or 5omm water resistance.
Even with this new Luminor 1950 case, Panerai have still retained the classic proportions of this model, which still do justice to this vintage brands ancestors on which this watch is inspired byback in the 1940s, The original Luminor was styled on original panerai pieces made for the commandos of the Italian Navy.
They still have the bridge with locking lever (it wouldnt be a Panerai Luminor without it in my mind) obviously it has a purpose and is not only aesthetically pleasing, the bring and lever helps to ensure a higher degree of water resistance and protects the crown from accidental shocks. On to the Luminor Marina 1950 3 days Automatic crown, it operates by rotating the hour hand in one hour increments in either direction and also adjusts the date accordingly and all without interrupting the normal running of the watch.
As for the dial, as with its predecessors we still have the panerai iconic design of the 1930s Panerai and ensures maximum clarity and legibility both underwater and in the lowest lighting conditions due to its two superimposed discs contain a layer of Super-LumiNova® which shines through cut-outs in the upper disc corresponding to the hour markers and numerals, providing exceptional visibility. The steel version we have a black dial with a corresponding black Panerai alligator strap, As for the Rose Gold Luminor Marina 1950 3 days Automatic 42mm they are brown with ecru coloured Super-LumiNova®.
We all know that Panerai is quintessentially a classic historic timepiece and steeped in recent tradition and this can be seen in the design of all its watches including this Luminor Marina 1950 3 Day Automatic 42mm, but on the inside to the contrary the In House P.9000 calibre is designed and uses the best in technical advances and materials and highlights the watchmakers continuous commitment to research and development. For those who are interested the automatic P.9000 calibre movement is completely designed and executed by the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel. It has a power reserve of 3 days and is driven by two spring barrels wound by an oscillating weight operating in both directions, it has 28 jewels and a balance wheel which oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Back to the aesthetics of the Panerai Luminor Marina 19503 days 42mm Automatic (That does seem a little long winded) or Reference PAM000392 (Steel) and PAM000393 (Rose Gold), both pieces look great as would be expected the colour choices and correlation of strap and dial are befitting such a timepiece, Are we to see a titanium version soon… And with time honoured recent tradition the case back being sapphire crystal gives is a striking pice of work from Panerai its detail and craftmenship is outstanding.
As for the technical speak about the material the steel is AISI 316L grade stainless steel, an alloy with a low carbon content notable for its high resistance to corrosion and the rose gold is 5Npt, a special alloy with an unusually high percentage of copper (24.1%) which gives more depth to the colour, and 0.4% platinum which helps to prevent any oxidation of the metal.
As per usual here are a few more shots of the Panerai Luminor Marina 19503 Days 42mm Automatic and its Technical Data.
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days – Automatic – Steel – Technical Details
Reference: PAM00392.
Movement: Automatic mechanical, inhouse Panerai P9000 calibre
28 jewels
frequency 28,800 alternations/hour.
Incabloc® anti-shock device
Power reserve 3 days
197 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date.
Case: Diameter 42 mm, AISI 316L brushed steel.
Bezel: Polished steel.
Back: See-through sapphire crystal.
Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.
Crystal: Sapphire, formed of corundum, 1.8 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water- resistance: 10 bar (~100 metres).
Strap: PANERAI personalised alligator strap and brushed steel buckle.
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days 42mm – Automatic - Oro Rosso (Rose Gold) - Technical Details
Reference: PAM00393.
Movement: Automatic mechanical, inhouse Panerai P9000 calibre
28 jewels
frequency 28,800 alternations/hour.
Incabloc® anti-shock device
Power reserve 3 days
197 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date.
Case: Diameter 42 mm, brushed red gold.
Bezel: Polished red gold.
Back: See-through sapphire crystal.
Dial: Brown with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.
Crystal: Sapphire, formed of corundum, 1.8 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water- resistance: 5 bar (~50 metres).
Strap: PANERAI personalised alligator strap and brushed red gold buckle.
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Christopher Ward C11 MSL Black Manta MK I – Hands On Watch Review
Written by D Constant for The Watch Review Site
We have the pleasure of undertaking a ‘hands on’ watch review of the New Christopher Ward C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1, which is currently available for pre-order via the Christopher Ward London Limited website. As you probably already know Christopher Ward only sell their watches online via their own website, this marketing method allows CW to reduce marketing costs and hence the market price of their British designed, Swiss made and manufactured timepieces.
The C11 MSL Black Manta MK1 is the latest in the range of aviation watches on offer by Christopher Ward, it is an addition to the already established Christopher Ward C11 MSL Range. The C11 MSL Black Manta comes with an all new PVD black case, this being the primary difference between the previous released C11 MSL which sported a polished steel case, It is available as a Chronograph Watch or Automatic Watch. The later being the one we have to play with and on that note thank you to the guys and gals at Christopher Ward for providing this C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1 Automatic watch for us at the Watch Review Site to put it through its paces in one of our ‘Hands On’ watch reviews.
So on to the task at hand, The C11 MSL Black Manta MK1 Automatic, Another one of CW’s long names, yes, yes, I know we can call it the C11 but that doesn’t differentiate it from the other C11’s does it so it’s the full name again.
We are not going to go into detail about how it is delivered as we have covered this on previous Reviews as in the C8 Pilot Hands on review, let’s just say you will not be disappointed when you receive your package.
First impressions are that this is an aviation watch that is based on a modern airplanes altimeter so heading away from the traditional pilot watches to a more contemporary version of a pilot watch akin to the Bell and Ross’s of this world. On the C11 MSL Black Manta we have a round dial placed in an altimeter style PVD black stainless steel case, CW have even placed a screw in each corner to depict the altimeter look even further.
Christopher Ward state the following with regards to the design and inspiration behind the Black Manta “Based on the cockpits of fast jets the C11 MSL is indeed an interesting and fast paced addition to the range, whilst less workmanlike than some if its peers, the C11 MSL retains its functionality.”
The C11 MSL black Manta has a very clean and crisp look to it, and makes a bold but understated statement when on the wrist, this 42mm case and 35.2mm dial are strikingly simple and attractive, with very large white numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 and large wide black and white striking hands, the entire piece comes together and has a sense of purpose.
The lack of minute indicators adds to the watches simplicity, but does not impair the reading of the time. Along with the inconspicuous second hand (a good thing in my book) and very well placed white numbers on black date indictor at 4 o’clock, the C11 MSL Black Manta MK1 Automatic ticks all the boxes in the looks department.
It’s a large watch but slim and wears well and fits even on small wrists, It’s light yet weighty enough to feel very comfortable on the wrist, It’s simple yet bold and striking and it can be worn daily with a suit or with casual wear, it’s adaptive and whatever the occasion brings attention to your wrist because of all the above. A wrist watch for all occasions.
As we are talking about looks and styling we should really mention that the Black Manta has a flat anti reflective coated sapphire crystal glass with the anti reflective coating being present on the exterior of the glass and not the interior as in the norm with Christopher Ward watches, this was a step taken as the glare reduction is substantially increased with the coating on the outside of the sapphire crystal as opposed to the inside. You do notice a blue tint to the sapphire crystal , which is down to the anti reflective coating but that doesn’t distract from the look of the watch at all and is only visible when the watch is in certain positions.
Along with the effective use of the coating, museum grade sapphire crystal has been used which further increases clarity and night time visibility of the C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1 Automatic.
With regards to night time visibility the numerals, markers and hands are all coated with SuperLuminova and its Lumen at night provides a very visible timepiece.
As you may well already know I have quite petite wrists and need to wear most watches (scrap that, all watches) on the smallest possible fitting and even then may need to add a hole or two myself, not always very successfully, (that’s where custom straps come in) so a 42mm case is always a challenge but this CW C11 MSL fits well and is very comfortable to wear even for me, this could well be down to the slimness of the watch at 10.7mm. See for yourselves in these wrist shots.
It’s a comfort that the C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1 Automatic fits well as it would be a shame to replace the strap with a customised version as so much attention to detail has been put into this by Christopher Ward from the black buckle, so delicately emblazoned with Christopher
It’s a comfort that the C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1 Automatic fits well as it would be a shame to replace the strap with a customised version as so much attention to detail has been put into this by Christopher Ward from the black buckle, so delicately emblazoned with Christopher Ward London and two decorative screws to match the case. The strap itself feels thick and sturdy and has quality stitching, with the small CW logo at the end. Oh and it has tool free simple to use quick release lugs.
Again these little touches and attention to detail show how Christopher Ward value your custom and reflect the recent step up in build quality we have seen in the Christopher Ward ranges, we saw it with the C8 Pilot and the C11 MSL Black Manta is also built to exacting standards with quality workmanship.
Moving onto the Case back of the Black Manta, again we see Christopher Wards emphasis upon design and quality, in normal circumstance you have your serial numbers and water resistance figures, not here on the C11 MSL Black Manta MK1 you have an engraved Latin inscription and a jet, the inscription translated stands for ‘Reach for the Stars’ quite apt for an aviator watch. Oh it also says Swiss made and has a serial number to the lower end but as such are not very noticeable so don’t detract from the main engravings.
We should really begin to mention to movement, again as with other Chris Ward pieces they have opted for the true Swiss mechanism in a Selitta SW200-1 or ETA 2824-2, both mechanisms do the same job and are of similar quality, the reason for two movement selections here is that ETA movements have becoming more and more limited in the market place due to steps by the owner Swatch in restricting supply, but Selitta movements are just as good and are becoming more and more popular.
So once again Christopher Ward have pulled one out of the bag with the C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1, it comes with a unique and attractive case design, and bold simplistic dial and on the wrist, it’s absolutely gorgeous.
Casing point here we had both the C8 Pilot MkII U-2 Vintage and C11 MSL Black Manta MK1 Automatic in for review at the same time, both turned out to be great watches but when I first opened the boxes I was drawn to the C8 Pilot it retro look, and undeniable Pilot Watch look but with time it was the C11 MSL that spent the most time on my wrist. Now that’s saying something as the C8 is a fabulous watch and one I would recommend to anyone who wants a retro vintage Pilot, but the C11 MSL Black Manta is really just that little different and little diverse and that i like…
One very important thing we have not mentioned in this review yet and it’s the price of the Christopher Ward C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1 Automatic at just £450.00 incl. VAT (UK Price) it just makes it even better, we can’t see many unique aviators with such a build quality and customer service backup in the market to compete at this price bracket.
The C11 Black Manta comes with the option of black or brown leather straps and is also available as a Chronograph at £399.00 incl. VAT (UK Price with) a Ronda 5030.D movement.
We have spoken to the team at Christopher Ward and we can confirm that we will be seeing further variation on the C11 MSL with a HRDC (Historic Racing Drivers Club) edition and a Mercedes Benz Club edition. The HRDC version looks lovely and we will be getting hold of it for review when its available fingers crossed.
As with all our hands on watch reviews here at The Watch Review Site we have provided a little gallery of photos of the Christopher Ward C11 MSL Black Manta MK1 Automatic after the Technical Details.
Technical Details – Christopher Ward C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1 Automatic
Case: 316l Surgical Grade Steel coated with Black PVD
Diameter: 42mm, Height: 10.7mm, Weight: 108g
Movement: ETA 2824-2/Selitta SW200-1 Automatic, with manual winding option
25/26 Jewels
Incabloc anti shock system
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28800 per hour
Water Resistance: 100m/10atm
Dial: Black
Black date calendar
Anti-reflective museum grade sapphire crystal
Hands and Markers Luminous hands and Indexes Superluminova
Case Back: Hand Polished Screw-in back plate
Strap: 22mm Italian leather strap
Buckle: Black PVD
Photo Gallery – Christopher Ward C11 MSL Black Manta Mk1 Automatic
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Limited Edition Red – Breitling Superocean Chronograph II
By D Constant for The Watch Review Site
So the Breitling Superocean Chrono II see’s REDDDDDDDD
Well what are your initial thoughts from the photo, quick glance first please
The new colour schem for the Chrono II seems to further bring out some of the watches stronger features and embodies the Chrono’s character. The stand out feature and difference in this limited edition is the unidirectional rotating bezel, an indispensable companion for the finest feats in deep waters, which appears clad in red rubber – offering a superb touch of vivid colour.
This vivid red on Breitlings Superocean Chronograph II is further echoed on the dials by the sweep seconds hand, the counter rings, the date window and the model’s signature all being emblazened in this RED…
Technical Details – Breitling Superocean Chronograph II – Limited Edition RED
Movement: Breitling Caliber 13, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding,
high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour),
25 jewels.
1/4th second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers.
Calendar.
Case: steel.
Water resistant to 500m (1,650ft /50bars).
Screw-locked crown and pushpieces.
Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel.
Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Diameter: 44 mm.
Dial: Abyss Red.
Straps: Barenia leather, Superocean leather, rubber Ocean Racer, rubber Diver Pro (with raised central ridge)
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JeanRichard’s Aquascope Lady “Night” Gives a Feminine Twist to the Dive Watch
I know we have covered the JeanRichard Aquascope before here at The Watch Review Site, but we stumbled across this piece written by the lovely and very knowledgeable Meehna Goldsmith of www.watchmatchmaker.com (one of our contributors) and had to share it with you all, we know Meehna wrote this a while ago but thought it would add a touch of class to our JeanRichard Watch Reviews and News.
Thank you Meehna for the great stuff your producing…
Written by Meehna Goldsmith
Aquascope Lady Night
With few exceptions, dive watches are designed to appeal to the male sensibility with their robust and rugged looks. It’s not like guys are the only ones who like to explore the depths below. We ladies need a cool watch that not only makes sure we surface before our rosy complexion turns blue but also that complements our wetsuit. No matter the environment we care about our outfits and there’s no denyingaccessories make the woman, by land or sea.
In the 1960’s JeanRichard entered into the dive watch arena. Named the Aquascope, the watch established the defining characteristics of the model with its round rotating bezel superimposed upon a tonneau case. The current model takes its design cues from the original but softens the lines and adds a crown at 9 o’clock to set the bidirectional bezel. The Aquascope watch has all the credentials of a diver in a resilient and rust resistant stainless case and a depth rating to 300 meters. The icing on the cake is that both the JR 1000 movement and the case are crafted in house at the JeanRichard factory.
Aquascope_60′
No doubt you’ll say that the Aquascope Lady “Night” is a man’s watch dressed up in drag and it’s true that the dimensions of the case stay the same for both the male and female models. But take a second look. The details are distinctly feminine. The black dial gives off a discreet glimmer with 8 diamond indexes, contrasting nicely to the black aluminum bezel with alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces.
Since a woman appreciates the value of matching details, the red color on both the seconds hand and date provide nice accents, the combination of white, black and red a fashion classic.
For a sporting look with the proper dash of womanly style, the Aquascope Lady Night offers function as well as an attractive wrist ornament. The watch comes on a black fabric strap with a satin-like appearance. There is also the option of a mother of pearl dial and a white fabric strap.
Retail Price: $7,500
(JR released another winner this year at SIHH with the Bressel 1665, which you can read about here.)
JeanRichard Aquascope Lady Night automatic diving watch specifications
Movement: Automatic, caliber JR1000, in-house, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, 25.94 mm in diameter, Swiss Made
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Aluminum
Case shape: Cushion
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 44.50 mm x 40.00 mm
Lug width: N/A
Case height: 11.85 mm
Dial: Black, satin-finished sunburst effect
Numerals: Arabic
Hands: Rhodium-plated steel
Water resistance: 300 meters
Strap: Black fabric strap with stainless steel folding buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective
Case back: Solid
Original Article can be found at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/2_womens_watches/jean-richard%E2%80%99s-aquascope-lady-%E2%80%9Cnight%E2%80%9D-feminine-twist-dive-watch.html
You may also want to check out the JeanRichard Big Life Charity Watch or just some of our other Ladies Watch Reviews.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180 – Do we need more?
Written by Martin Green
Sometimes high end watch making seems like an endless challenge of making watches as complicated as possible. Especially in the last decade we’ve run out of complications to combine, since everything has already been tried. So we come up with different ways of showing the time or speeding up hands to such an extent that probably in a year of two you can hear a loud bang from under the crystal of your watch, created by a hand that went through the sound barrier as soon as you engaged its chronograph.
True classics die hard, but sometimes a dash of current times can do even a classic good!
Stuff of dreams but about as necessary as sugar coated cherry on top of your apple sauce, since most occasions in life are perfectly served by a simple, elegant watch with two hands. One hand is inconvenient but three or more hands only add stress. Many brands are still making such watches, often in color combinations that are as classical as a pair of Brogues with rib cord pants. Yellow gold and off white dials still reign supreme in this part of the watch world. But there are other options. One of them is the magnificent Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180.
40mm of contemporary delight! picture by Alex Ghotbi
The case of the 81180 is all in platinum, which still represents a minor part of the market. Although demand is increasing only 2.6 percent of all Swiss watches were made out of this metal in 2004 (source Johnson Matthey). A pity because not only is platinum very exclusive, this metal also has a warm, soft glow that sets it apart from the less regal white gold, not to mention the plebeian steel! By being a white metal you can dress it up or dress it down just as easily as you change your own wardrobe.
Vacheron Constantin even helps you by equipping the Patrimony 81180 with a grey dial. A regal companion when you wear your pinstripe, while almost sporty looking when you jump into your 501’s! It also gives the watch a sense of unity yet without being boring or old fashioned. That is of course also why Vacheron Constantin added “Contemporaine” to this watch name, though probably in reference to to its size! No 34, 36 or even 38mm diameter but a healthy 40mm! That gives wrist presence but also offers Vacheron Constantin with a slight dilemma.
The brand is one of the royals when it comes to the production of ultra slim movements, and the Vacheron Constantin 81180 has one in it, the manual wind caliber 1400 to be precise. A dream of a caliber that is about half the diameter of the whole watch: 20.65mm! Although sapphire case backs are all the rage, Vacheron Constantin fortunately thought that a closed case back was a better option than to fill up the extra space with a huge (platinum) spacer. Some might call it a waste of the finely finished, Geneva Seal recipient caliber, with its chamfered edges and highly polished jewel counter sinks. Actually a closed case back also has its charm. It suits the watch’s straight forward design, and honestly, wouldn’t you rather have platinum resting on your wrist than a piece of sapphire crystal?
Vacheron Constantin finishes the watch with a nice Mississippi (yes, no Louisiana this time!) alligator strap, with its signature Maltese Cross transformed into a buckle. This still is one of the coolest pin buckles available, period, and actually almost a reason by itself to treat yourself to a Vacheron Constantin. Overall the Patrimony Contemporaine reference 81180 is a watch for almost anytime, anywhere, always appropriate, never too much or too little. Perfection in its most simple form, which almost, yes almost, gives you the desire for little more.
You may like the following articles on The Watch Review Site – Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph or the GP 1966 Full Calendar
Original article content can be viewed at http://www.watchmatchmaker.com/brands/vacheron_constantin/vacheron-constantin-patrimony-contemporaine-reference-81180-do-we-need-more.html
Christopher Ward C700 Grande Rapide Automatic Chronograph
The Christopher Ward C700 Grand Rapide is, “quite simply, a magnificent example of the automatic chronograph genre”.
It’s movement is supplied by the Eta 7750, through to the Formula One inspired laser precision carbon-fibre dial, this watch represents the apotheosis of Christopher Wards watchmaking skills upto this point in their short lifecycle.
Christopher Ward say “We were driven by a desire for excellence in creating the C700 and we hope you are equally driven by a desire to own one of these wonderful watches.”
Christopher Ward‘s new C700 Grand Rapide is the British watchmaker’s most ambitious timepiece yet, it is a more modern timepiece in terms of imagery than the watchmaker has previously designed.
Christopher Ward say “Nothing about the watch is a compromise; every aspect of the design has been driven by the desire to create the ultimate motorsport watch. The C700 has been created for people who prefer to make the most of every second and observe their rivals in their rear-view mirror.”
The Christopher Ward C700 is inspired by motorsport, and this is apparent from the carbon-fibre dial (first time use by Christopher Ward) and very interesting silicone rubber strap with a carbon weave effect, tyre impersonation at its best, but that aside you cannot forget that even though this timepiece is British in design and styling its internal workings and movements are all Swiss made.
Christopher Ward pride themselves on ensuring they design and manufacture top quality timepieces using the best swiss movements and engineering.
The C700 Grande Rapide comes in three models, the only differnce between them is the strap or bracelet combination. The models are
C700SKSI – Silicone Rubber Strap
C700SKS – Steel Bracelet
C700SKK – Black Leather
There is a choice of a stainless steel bracelet, a leather strap or a rubber strap, which mirrors the dial with its polished chequered flag design. The Chris Ward C700 has a 30 minute and 12 hour counter as well as a 60 second chronograph, which has a circular guilloche pattern at its heart and is inspired by a rev counter – continuing the motorsport theme.
Like all Christopher Ward watches, the C700 has been designed in Britain and hand assembled by the company’s atelier in Switzerland. Superluminova on the hands as well as the dial ensure there’s never a need to be in the dark when it comes to managing time.
This is Christopher Ward’s highest priced model, but saying that as with Christopher Wards ethos the watches are still only priced at £799.00 for the strap versions and £860.00 for the Steel bracelet version and are available directly from Christopher Ward via their website Christopher Ward London Limited
Technical Data
Diameter: 42mm
Height: 13.9mm
Weight: 130g (Silicon rubber & Black Leather strap models) 209g (Steel bracelet model)
Case: 316L Stainless steel
Calibre: Eta 7750
Vibrations: 28,800 per hour
Features
25 Jewel Swiss automatic chronograph
Etachron regulator system
3 counter multi-function chronograph (hours, minutes and stop second)
I
nternal Tachymeter
Day / Date Calendar
Carbon Fibre Dial
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Screw-in crown
Water resistant to 100m (10 atm)
Strap: Silicon Rubber with adjustable tongue buckle, Black Leather with adjustable quick release butterfly clasp or Steel with adjustable quick release butterfly clasp.
Hand-polished surgical grade stainless steel case
SuperLuminova SLC1 Luminous indices and hands
Meet the new English watch brand
Mar 7, 2012
Giles Ellis is the founder of new English watch brand Schofield.
It has taken several years of research, design and manufacture but fledgling English watch brand Schofield is finally ready to wow the watch connoisseurs. Kathryn Bishop meets its perfectionist founder Giles Ellis.
When you first meet Giles Ellis it does not take long to work out that he is a rather dapper man. And when you discover his watch brand, Schofield, you soon realise that he is focused on the finer details in life, with no corners cut and no compromises made.
Founding your own brand and creating a name for yourself is never easy and many would probably agree that to do it in the watch industry, more so as an Englishman attempting to launch an English watch brand, then the odds are likely to be stacked against you. But none of that has put Ellis off.
Like many designers, his obsession to create his own watch brand started with a disappointing shopping trip. When the self-confessed design obsessive went looking for a watch he soon discovered that nothing quite fitted what he liked, not within his budget at least. So he sat down and began designing.
“I didn’t have the skills to assemble the watch but I had the confidence to do design something, so I drew up the case shape, then it evolved and evolved,” he explains.
Ellis says that while he was designing he naturally assumed the he would use “off-the-shelf this and off-the-shelf that” but found that his own particularities began to take over and soon he wanted to design his own watch hands and strap and with it a business plan began to form in his mind.
“For me, launching Schofield came out the fact that I couldn’t afford the watches I liked. Crikey, I’d like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or a [Patek Philippe] Nautilus; both of those watches are genius to me, but they’re outside my scope of design,” he reveals. “I thought, if I could make the watch I love and other people would love then it had the chance to be a success.”
His confidence was not without planning, however, and Ellis was smart enough to make sure that he could walk before he attempted to run into the watch industry.
“I have studied the industry, gone to Basel for a few years, to get a firm grasp on the industry because I knew I couldn’t design a viable watch without an understanding of how things work.”
Schofield’s debut watches, the Signalman DLC and the Signalman GMT – the second housing a power reserve – finally came into being last year, with the watches selling to pre-orders before they were even assembled. The two timepieces are a striking mix of Ellis’s Englishness and refined detail that comes from manufacturing in Germany, where both the cases and straps are made.
“With the Signalman, I came across so many stumbling blocks but I didn’t want to compromise on anything [so] most of my time was spent finding the right suppliers,” he says. “This is why the watch is made in Germany with parts from 27 suppliers and why its takes 3,000 man hours to bring everything together.”
Of those 27 suppliers, Ellis has one company making the straps, another making his cherry wood presentation boxes and another making the hinges used on the boxes. The Schofield watches house Soprod Swiss movements for the reason that they will make small batches of a movement at a time.
But of everything that has been put into creating the Schofield watches, one of Ellis’s most challenging aspects was the case shape, which he has now patented. He spent almost 18 months seeking out manufacturers who would take on the angled, chamfered case shape of the Signalman. While many wouldn’t consider his design, one company finally took on the assignment.
“Eventually I found someone in Germany, someone who said ‘give it here, we’ll have a go’, and they have done it amazingly,” Ellis enthuses. He says the tolerances in the case are superb and from the feedback gained at Salon QP last November, where the brand officially made its debut, it seems to have been admired by almost everyone who saw it.
As a man that confesses to living and breathing design, his present career path is a long way from his former profession making musical instruments – ukuleles, banjos, even his own amplifiers – but has taken some influence from his love of Americana and old Western films, combined with his admiration for solid engineering.
“The Schofield name comes from the type of a revolver that Jesse James used,” Ellis explains. “I designed a logo for my amplifiers that had two Schofield guns back-to-back and the name has stayed with me as a little nod back to Americana”. Likewise the fonts Schofield uses on the dial and in its brochures and website are classic American fonts.
In a further design twist, the caseback of the Signalman is engraved with a lighthouse, which may seem a far cry from the dust and drama of a classic Western movie but exists, like every feature of a Schofield watch, for a reason.
“The case shape is reminiscent of the central section of a Fresnel lens, the lens in the top of a lighthouse,” explains Ellis. “I’ve always loved lighthouses; they’re cool and they represent so much about my brand. It’s a metaphor for being a beacon, for having impeccable timing and precision and is testament to British engineering and design.”
When asked whether it has been tough to take what is essentially a watch designed for himself – penned by his own hand, designed to suit his style and personality – to a wider market he says no, adding that it is because he is so sure of the product.
“It’s interesting, you kind of get this confidence that what you’ve designed is OK,” he says. And so far Schofield has won a great deal of positive feedback among a knowledgeable and discerning crowd of watch fans.
“The Signalman is a hard watch to articulate,” he says. “We had to show it, people had to handle it, and Salon QP was an opportunity to have attention come to us rather than us finding it.”
Ellis says that while the watches are Schofield’s first offering, they are not naive. He spent several years working on them, asking people how the watches made them feel, analysing their responses and sometimes finding out things he had previously overlooked. In fact, elements of the final design were entirely serendipitous.
“I was sent some ridged watch straps by accident because the guys in Germany misread my email,” he says. Ellis says he was disappointed but decided to try the straps on a prototype to see how it looked. “There was a line that continued through the watch and I thought ‘hang on, it works’. It just happened so I ran with it.”
The calf leather-lined straps are also machine made, another decision so as to avoid flaws in the manufacturing chain that might arise from hand-made straps, which sometime lack quality control.
Ellis has made rules for himself and says that a huge design document backs up the brand, but says it is also about having fun. “We do have some flippant rules, like the front of business is serious and back is fun. It’s same with the watch and even the brochure.”
He also has plans to carry out a photo shoot with “men of character” and says the watch has been produced for the active gent. “It’s a watch for blokey blokes,” explains Ellis. “It’s a cliché but the Signalman is the watch you can wear with a T-shirt but also looks sharp with a suit. It’s not fashion-led; it won’t go out of style.”
Launching a company is no mean feat but to date Ellis has been developing Schofield solo, with no financial backing.
“It’s my project. I don’t have a lot of money, I haven’t sold a software business for a million pounds to get me started,” he laughs.
Ellis says he wants Schofield to develop a cult following and maintain an underground nature – something that will come with ease due to its small-scale production output.
“We want people to feel like we’re brand they’ve discovered, like buried treasure,” he says. “We want that feeling you get when you come across something special; we want to get people talking.”
Indeed, Schofield is already causing a stir, so much so that Ellis has a number of discerning gents (and women, his wife wears a Signalman) beginning their own collection of Schofields, having snapped up both styles of Signalman.
He is also planning to host events for his clients and those interested in the brand during 2012; a gentlemen’s club of sorts where guest can have a drink, catch up, talk watches and more, but without all the spiel that comes with a brand exercise.
New watches are in the pipeline and Ellis hopes to extend the Schofield line with a timepiece that might have a guilloche dial – in his own pattern, of course – potentially crafted in tungsten with classic looks. He’s also toying with the idea of a two-handed timepiece.
While Ellis admits his next watch will probably be more expensive that the Signalmans, which retail for less than £3,400, it will be because of the exclusivity. “They’re expensive to manufacture because they’re made in small numbers,” he explains.
But Ellis doesn’t have plans to get mass production underway. “I am not intending to sell through a distributor. I’m fussy, I want it in a few exclusive places,” he smiles, listing off Jura and Kronometry 1999 as retailers he is fond of. “But that’s the trouble with watches: you have the aspiration and want to keep it classy but you do have to get watches on wrists. But you do what you can, and get on with it.”
Ellis says that unlike most companies, for him the watch came before the business and with that came different values to many of his counterparts. “I’m not like most brands that said ‘right I want to make a watch, I need a designer, a manufacturer’, that’s not me,” he says. “This watch came from a different place with different values. When before has this been done apart from the guys who sit and make watches themselves?”
Schofield is certainly set for a busy year. On social networking sites and watch blogs the brand is already being praised.
“Yes, there are lots of interesting things going on for Schofield. It’s all about staying ahead of the game, because I’ve shown people everything now: my watches, my presentation box, my brochure, they know all the details.”
For a moment you wonder whether Ellis might be worried about Schofield’s next move, but that confidence is back in a heartbeat.
“They’re all realising now, other brands, that sometimes it’s about more than just the watch,” he says. And Schofield and its Signalmans are indeed more than that – right now it is Ellis’s life.
Source: This article has been taken from the February issue of WatchPro magazine.
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Jacob & Co - Grand 4 - GR4-17
The Grand Collection is like the original Five Timezones watch in displaying the local time, as well as the time in four reference cities around the globe, each one of which is a global hub for both 24 hour commerce and a cultural life that never sleeps, but unlike the earlier but always classic Five Timezones watch, it shows the local time on a dial of the same dimensions as the other timezones, allowing the overall shape of the watch to be expressed in the shape of a pentagon, a most unusual and distinctive choice which has only very seldom been used in the entire history of wristwatch design.
To accentuate the bold and unusual pentagonal profile of the Jacob & Co. Grand Collection shows the adventurous spirit of the 1960s when air travel was such a special luxury that the term “jet setter” was coined to describe those privileged few who enjoyed its miraculous speed and glamour.
Distinctive, aerodynamically styled bezel elements further accentuate the link between the Grand timepieces and the on-the-go world of international jet travel, as well as creating a dramatic visible link to the design world of the early jet travel era.
Luxurious and high tech finishes combine, such as 18 carat rose gold, stainless steel, and stainless steel finished in dramatic black PVD.
One of the most striking models is the Grand 5, which features a full black PVD treatment.
Jacob and Co chose watch designer Jacques Fournier of Horology Design Limited to create the G5 series including the Grand, Galega, Ghost and Global collections. As can be seen Jacques has a unique and distinctive style providing renowned watch brands worldwide with groundbreaking creations.
All Jacob & Co. Grand timepieces are powered by Swiss precision quartz movements, and are offered on natural black rubber straps with folding clasps.
The Jacob & Co. G5 Series – Grand Specifications
Case: 47 mm
Movement: Swiss quartz ETA 956.112
Functions: Five time zones, freely moving central rotor
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50m
The Jacob & Co. G5 Series – Grand Model Descriptions
Grand 1 – Steel case in black PVD. Coloured surrounds for dials in black PVD, stainless steel, and rose gold. Natural black rubber strap with folding clasp.
Grand 2 – 18 carat rose gold case. Coloured surrounds for dials in black PVD, stainless steel, and rose gold. Natural black rubber strap with folding clasp.
Grand 3 – Stainless steel case. Coloured surrounds for dials in black PVD, stainless steel, and rose gold. Natural black rubber strap with folding clasp.
Grand 4 – Steel case in black PVD. Stainless steel surrounds. Two dial bezels in red PVD; local time dial in red. Natural black rubber strap with folding clasp.
Grand 5 - Steel case in black PVD. Surrounds and bezels in black PVD. Natural black rubber strap with folding clasp.
Information sourced from Jacobs & Co. Watches. and Jacques Fournier.
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J&Co Watches - Ghost GT3
The stars come out at night, and nowhere more so than in the world of Jacob & Co., a name synonymous with the nocturnal world of glamour, intrigue, and international excitement.
One of the most daring new introductions from Jacob & Co. the Ghost Collection lives up to its name by appearing mysteriously out of the darkness to thrill and excite wearer and viewer alike.
The timepieces of the Jacob & Co. Ghost collection show the day and date in five different time zones “on demand” –with the press of a button, the digital displays are illuminated in a stunning burst of light and colour. The pentagonal Ghost case, a homage to the iconic Jacob & Co. 5 Timezones watch, offers a profile as exotic as the illuminated time displays themselves, and the Ghost cases and bezels with a variety of both cutting edge modern materials and traditional tokens of luxury.
To enjoy the splendid fireworks of the Ghost timepiece, there are a variety of choices, pressing each of the crowns individually illuminates a single time display, while a longer press of the crown located at the upper right corner of the pentagon will illuminate all displays, which are able to display 32 colours including brilliant red, blue or yellow. The date alone can be displayed for each time zone at will as well, and naturally, the Jacob & Co. logo at the center of the watch glows whenever the time display is activated.
Like the supernatural creature of the night from which it takes its name, the Ghost can change personality as well. Each Ghost timepiece features an interchangeable bezel, which is available in black PVD, carbon fibre, stainless steel, or 18 carat rose gold, with white or black diamond set bezels available.
Ever changing, and always dramatic and unexpected, the Ghost timepieces from Jacob & Co. are glamorous creatures of the night.
Jacob and Co chose watch designer Jacques Fournier of Horology Design Limited to create the G5 series including the Grand, Galega, Ghost and Global collections. As can be seen Jacques has a unique and distinctive style providing renowned watch brands worldwide with groundbreaking creations.
The Jacob & Co. G5 Series – Ghost Specifications
Case: 47mm, all Ghost cases are stainless steel or steel and black PVD, with interchangeable bezel system
Bezel: Interchangeable, available in stainless steel, black PVD, carbon fibre, or 18K rose gold. Can be set with round brilliant cut diamonds.
Movement: Swiss digital able to display in 32 colours
Functions: Five time zones with date indication, illuminated central J&Co. logo
Jewels: 25
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30m
Ghost GT1 – Steel case, with blue displays or 31 other colours; interchangeable bezels, black alligator strap with folding clasp.
Ghost GT2 – Steel case in black PVD, red displays or 31 other colours, and gold accented crowns, interchangeable bezels, black alligator strap with folding clasp.
Ghost GT3 – Steel case in black PVD, with blue displays or 31 other colours, interchangeable bezels, black alligator strap with contrasting blue stitching and folding clasp.
Ghost GT4 – Steel case in black PVD, with blue displays or 31 other colours, interchangeable bezels, black alligator strap with folding clasp.
Ghost GT5 – Steel case in black PVD, with yellow displays or 31 other colours, interchangeable bezels, black alligator strap with contrasting yellow stitching and folding clasp.
Information sourced from Jacobs & Co. Watches. and Jacques Fournier.
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